About Securing Doors

This is a discussion on About Securing Doors within the Home (And Away From Home) Defense Discussion forums, part of the Related Topics category; Question here, I've looked all over the internet to try and understand what it really takes to make doors kick proof. i see varying opinions ...

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Thread: About Securing Doors

  1. #1
    Member Array Rugerguy's Avatar
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    About Securing Doors

    Question here, I've looked all over the internet to try and understand what it really takes to make doors kick proof. i see varying opinions but mostly websites selling products. I replaced my old wood basement door with a solid steel door and dead bolt. my front door was re hung w/ new deadbolt but I think still very kick able. Lots of products, Strike master, floor blockers etc....anybody here really know what I need to do? thanks

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  3. #2
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    Array Bark'n's Avatar
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    I have installed two Strike Master Pro's on the door to my shop and the side door on my garage. I've been pretty impressed with them so far and am planning on putting them on the three remaining exterior doors to my house. If you believe their advertisement, they've never had a door kicked in on a home which has had them installed. Of course, they have not advertised how many attempts have been made on them, just that no door has been successfully kicked in.
    -Bark'n
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    "The gun is the great equalizer... For it is the gun, that allows the meek to repel the monsters; Whom are bigger, stronger and without conscience, prey on those who without one, would surely perish."

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    Distinguished Member Array INccwchris's Avatar
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    The old fashioned way normally works best, get two steel or iron L shaped bars installed in the wall that are welded to a metal door frame. A properly installed metal door frame will not come out because it would literally have to be kicked through the wall. Then once you have the two bars installed on either side of the door, take an iron bar and slide it down into the L brackets and the door cannot be opened from the outside unless the bar is slid out of place. It cannot be kicked in or knocked in with a handheld battering ram. This is the most secure way of doing this. However it is costly and time consuming to do.
    "The value you put on the lost will be determined by the sacrifice you are willing to make to seek them until they are found."

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    Quote Originally Posted by INccwchris View Post
    The old fashioned way normally works best, get two steel or iron L shaped bars installed in the wall that are welded to a metal door frame. A properly installed metal door frame will not come out because it would literally have to be kicked through the wall. Then once you have the two bars installed on either side of the door, take an iron bar and slide it down into the L brackets and the door cannot be opened from the outside unless the bar is slid out of place. It cannot be kicked in or knocked in with a handheld battering ram. This is the most secure way of doing this. However it is costly and time consuming to do.
    I assume that if that there is a fire or medical emergency you just die because the firemen can't get to you. I guess it depends who you think will get you first: bad guys or Murphy. Something that is breachable but takes a couple minutes of abuse might be ideal.

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    Member Array paullie's Avatar
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    there is no such thing as "kickproof", if somebody wants to come in, they will, it might just take a little time
    mr.stuart, enk5 and bigdog44 like this.

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    Member Array mandalitten's Avatar
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    I don't think it's possible to make it kick proof, but you can make it kick resistant. There was actually a good segment on the the Best Defense show last week about making secure doors. To start out, you need to secure both the hinge side as well as the lock side. The lock side is the weak side, so this should be reinforced with a deadbolt and metal plate. They also had dowels on the hinge side, which I had not seen before.
    I think it was these guys here:
    Door Security Pro: Home Door Jamb Reinforcement Stops Door Kick-in

  8. #7
    Distinguished Member Array shockwave's Avatar
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    I assume that if that there is a fire or medical emergency you just die because the firemen can't get to you.
    In a fire or medical emergency, responders can axe down your door, open it with a pry bar, knock out a window and enter that way, etc.

    The classic "door kick" method burglars use is extremely fast - less than one second and they're in. EMT or firefighters can take a few seconds more (and make a lot more noise, etc.).

    I think the linked door-jamb reinforcement plate above is a great idea.
    "It may seem difficult at first, but everything is difficult at first."

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    Senior Member Array Phillep Harding's Avatar
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    Find out who demolishes buildings in your area. Ask if he knows where to find a metal door with a metal frame, the sort used for back doors that open into allies. (They are, uh, "very expensive" new, to put it mildly.) Use one of those to replace your door, and be sure to frame it with posts, not 2x4's, well braced.

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    Member Array Rugerguy's Avatar
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    Anybody here install that Strike Master Pro 2?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rugerguy View Post
    Anybody here install that Strike Master Pro 2?
    Yes, I said so in Post #2. I have installed two of them and am pretty impressed with them. I have 3 doors left to install. But they run around $100 each so I have to wait for some more disposable income. Don't forget to install 3 inch screws in the hinge plates as well. They recommend only needing to replace two of the three screws on each side of the hinge.
    -Bark'n
    Semper Fi


    "The gun is the great equalizer... For it is the gun, that allows the meek to repel the monsters; Whom are bigger, stronger and without conscience, prey on those who without one, would surely perish."

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by paullie View Post
    there is no such thing as "kickproof", if somebody wants to come in, they will, it might just take a little time
    Yeah, I totally understand that... Kind of a no brainer really. Just saying, according to Strike Master Pro's website, they have never had a door "successfully kicked-in" on a door in which a consumer has installed their product. And that may be true. It doesn't say it hasn't been attempted and the perp gave up and went looking for an easier, softer target. And it doesn't say how many times kick-in's have been attempted on doors using their product.

    And that's the bottom line. The chances are, especially in my neighborhood of "nosey, eagle-eye neighbors, after 4 or 5 attempts at kicking-in, it's going to be highly likely they are not going to keep trying and risk getting caught. Much better to move on to easier pickings elsewhere.
    -Bark'n
    Semper Fi


    "The gun is the great equalizer... For it is the gun, that allows the meek to repel the monsters; Whom are bigger, stronger and without conscience, prey on those who without one, would surely perish."

  13. #12
    Distinguished Member Array mr.stuart's Avatar
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    Many people make fun of the ADT commercials with the siren scaring the BG off.I can say that the siren on our alarm is so loud it is painful.So if my door is kicked in the noise might even mask the sound of gunfire
    Pain is the best teacher,but nobody wants to go to his class.


    When the past smothers the present, there is only desperation. When the future absorbs the present, life stands still. In either case a decision must be made because you only live now and you are only what you are now.

  14. #13
    Member Array Rugerguy's Avatar
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    Strikemaster or the more painful route of new door and steel frame?

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    Member Array xtalman's Avatar
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    I went with this for one of my doors:

    Low Profile Door Shields & Jamb Reinforcement - Armor Concepts

    It protects the jamb, hinge, and deadbolt. It's a little ugly though.

    For my front and back doors I added security storm doors:

    Larson Manufacturing

    It has laminated glass and a 3-point locking system. At some point I'm likely to put the door jamb armor on the other doors too.

    These items can be found at Lowes.

  16. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by xtalman View Post
    I went with this for one of my doors:

    Low Profile Door Shields & Jamb Reinforcement - Armor Concepts

    It protects the jamb, hinge, and deadbolt. It's a little ugly though.

    For my front and back doors I added security storm doors:

    Larson Manufacturing

    It has laminated glass and a 3-point locking system. At some point I'm likely to put the door jamb armor on the other doors too.

    These items can be found at Lowes.
    I've got the StrikeMaster Pro II reinforcements on two of my five exterior doors. I also reinforced the hinges. However, I still have three doors left to do. I may try the door reinforcements from Armor Concepts on the remaining three.

    I'm also liking the Larson Storm/Security doors.

    Thanks for the links.
    -Bark'n
    Semper Fi


    "The gun is the great equalizer... For it is the gun, that allows the meek to repel the monsters; Whom are bigger, stronger and without conscience, prey on those who without one, would surely perish."

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