Fortify a Door From Zombies
This is a discussion on Fortify a Door From Zombies within the Home (And Away From Home) Defense Discussion forums, part of the Related Topics category; We have a side door no one ever uses. We just use the area for storage. Just in case of a zombie attack, I would ...
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January 19th, 2012 06:54 PM
#1
New Member
Array
Fortify a Door From Zombies
We have a side door no one ever uses. We just use the area for storage. Just in case of a zombie attack, I would like to fortify the door. I'm brainstorming ideas. I'm aware of products that reinforce the door jam but I want to take it a step further and put a removable 6" x 6" piece of wood that braces the door closed.
The benefit my idea (shown below) is that we can still use the space above and below the 6" x 6" for storage.
Here is my diagram. Please offer any alternate ideas or comments.
upload.jpg
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January 19th, 2012 06:54 PM
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January 19th, 2012 06:59 PM
#2
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Array
Bookmarked!!
posted via tapatalk using android.
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January 19th, 2012 07:05 PM
#3
Moderator
Array
Part E should be perpendicular to Part B and the door, and the 45 degree angle can be more strongly buttressed against Part A. As it is, E is at a 45 degree angle to the door, making it inherently weak since Part B and the door are both moving parts.
That's my read, but I am not an engineer.
And since you are Zombie proofing, put a treadmill outside in front of that door.
NRA Life Member
"But if they don't exist, how can a man see them?"
"You may think I'm pompous, but actually I'm pedantic... let me explain the difference."
"Carry the battle to them. Don't let them bring it to you. Put them on the defensive and don't ever apologize for anything."
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January 19th, 2012 07:13 PM
#4
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Array

Originally Posted by
Rock and Glock
Part E should be perpendicular to Part B and the door, and the 45 degree angle can be more strongly buttressed against Part A. As it is, E is at a 45 degree angle to the door, making it inherently weak since Part B and the door are both moving parts.
Yea you might be right about that. But in terms of convenience its easier to store boxes above, below and behind the original drawing. Here's a drawing of your revision suggestion...
upload - Copy.jpg
If I go with the original, do you think it would be good enough to withstand a lot of zombies? I can do significant buttressiing.
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January 19th, 2012 07:32 PM
#5
Member
Array
GREAT!!!!!! Now you've gone and given the Zombies the plans for your Zombie proof door. Start over.
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January 19th, 2012 07:33 PM
#6
Moderator
Array
The risk of slippage of Part E in the original could well be negated by a stout buttress on the doorknob side of B. That Could keep Part E from skating off towards the edge. Enough wood in there and anything will work.
NRA Life Member
"But if they don't exist, how can a man see them?"
"You may think I'm pompous, but actually I'm pedantic... let me explain the difference."
"Carry the battle to them. Don't let them bring it to you. Put them on the defensive and don't ever apologize for anything."
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January 19th, 2012 08:22 PM
#7
Moderator
Array
"The pistol, learn it well, carry it always ..." ~ Jeff Cooper
"Dilgentia Vis Celeritas"
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January 19th, 2012 08:39 PM
#8
VIP Member
Array
I am no good a drawing but why not put a steel “L” bracket on both sides of the door then just drop a bar into the brackets to keep it from being opened.
This link may help explain what i mean. http://www.ehow.com/list_6151216_har...-bar-door.html
When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk.
"Don't forget, incoming fire has the right of way."
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January 19th, 2012 09:05 PM
#9
New Member
Array

Originally Posted by
msgt/ret
...why not put a steel “L” bracket on both sides of the door then just drop a bar into the brackets to keep it from being opened...]
I hear ya, and that's an excellent suggestion. I thought of something like that with brackets and a 2"x4" but I don't know what the material on either side of the door is. It seems to be plaster and I'm not sure where the solid wood is beneath the plaster.
The image shows the area that appears to be weak plaster.
Re to Warehouse Comment - Copy.jpg
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January 19th, 2012 09:20 PM
#10
VIP Member
Array
How about get you 3 pieces of good heavy angle iron. mount one to the door, one to the inside wall in such a manner that the third will run from door to wall at appropriate angle to keep door from opening. You can use bolts/removable pins to remove the 3rd piece (the bar so to speak), so you can use the door if need be. For the best results two or even three of these at different levels on the door would enforce it at more points. One up higher, one at knob level and one down lower.
Just an idea.
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January 19th, 2012 09:25 PM
#11
VIP Member
Array

Originally Posted by
TayFifer
I hear ya, and that's an excellent suggestion. I thought of something like that with brackets and a 2"x4" but I don't know what the material on either side of the door is. It seems to be plaster and I'm not sure where the solid wood is beneath the plaster.
The image shows the area that appears to be weak plaster.
Re to Warehouse Comment - Copy.jpg
A stud finder like these will help to find the solid wood. Tools & Hardware - Hand Tools - Stud Finders - at The Home Depot
When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk.
"Don't forget, incoming fire has the right of way."
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January 19th, 2012 09:45 PM
#12
Member
Array
The simplest way I have found is take 2 large eye bolts that will let a 3/4" pipe slide through and mount the eye bolts on both sides of the door. Drill each end on the pipe for a pin that will stop the pipe from sliding out. Mount this a couple of inches below the door knob.
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January 19th, 2012 10:44 PM
#13
New Member
Array

Originally Posted by
tkruf
How about get you 3 pieces of good heavy angle iron. mount one to the door, one to the inside wall in such a manner that the third will run from door to wall at appropriate angle to keep door from opening. You can use bolts/removable pins to remove the 3rd piece (the bar so to speak), so you can use the door if need be. For the best results two or even three of these at different levels on the door would enforce it at more points. One up higher, one at knob level and one down lower.
Just an idea.
Something like this? I will call it Angle Iron Master Plan 01
Angle Iron Master Plan.jpg
Or Angle Iron Master Plan 02
Angle Iron Master Plan 01.jpg
My original idea is basically something in this ballpark except with the option of removing the wood in the middle, and with boards on the ends instead of just another 6"x6".
Simply 01.jpg
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January 19th, 2012 10:47 PM
#14
Member
Array
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January 19th, 2012 11:18 PM
#15
New Member
Array
Master final plan
Master Final Plan.jpg
Total budget = $75 at home depot including screws and all that jazz.
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