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Gun safe recommendations.

10K views 26 replies 24 participants last post by  BugDude 
#1 ·
I'm sure this has been beat to death but here it is again. I plead retarded... or "search challenged"...

I presently have about a half dozen long arms and a handful of handguns, some of which I need to begin locking up (better late than never). I also want to store as much of my ammo as possible (presently about 10, 50 cal cans), IF it doesn't push up the price significantly. I'm interested in something in the $400 - $800 dollar range that the average criminal won't be able to crack. I've only looked at a Cannon and Winchester at a local Tractor Supply Co but I do like the multi-pin locking systems. My wife and I are discussing where "it" will go and it'll likely be bolted to a concrete pad.

Also, what are your thoughts on electronic keypad combo locks? Are they an issue if the battery dies?
 
#2 ·
Here's an informational video that will at least help you generate some good questions. It's brand-specific, but look past that and absorb the information presented. GUN SAFES "THE TRUTH" weaponseducation - YouTube

Beyond that: Consider bolting the safe to hard structure (like concrete floor) mandatory. The "soft underbelly" for a lot of safes is their floor, which may be defeated by sledgehammering once the safe is tipped over.

A friend and I both got safes within a couple of weeks of each other maybe 3-4 years ago. Different brands of safes, but both came with the convenient S&G digital keypad locks. BOTH locks failed within a week of each other. I got lucky and eventually was able to open my safe; he wasn't, and his old lock had to be drilled out. Both safes now have the conventional, mechanical dial-tumbler locks. Your mileage may vary.
 
#5 ·
If you go digital, make sure it has a keyed backup. I prefer a proven tumbler. I'm not concerned about storing ammo in a safe, but get one larger than what you think you need. That's the biggest comment I hear--Wish I'd gotten a bigger one. Unless you get a mega safe, definitely bolt it to something solid.
 
#6 ·
Got a safe some years back. Swapped the digital unit out with a Sargent & Greenleaf manual lock ... and slept much better for having done that. Of course, that was done on a big floor safe where instant access wasn't a primary concern.

Were I to require instant access, I'd want a faster way to get in than a manual 3-number dial lock. But for most folks, then, that means digital, with all the increased risk of failure those bring to the table.

Is it an issue if the digital/batteries fail? Only if you need to get back into the safe.
 
#7 ·
I have two 34-gun safes with a high Security Rating and Fire Rating. They both have dial only combos, so I won't get locked out.
The 'Quick-Access' of the electronic keypads seem more of a liability, to me.
Mine are both heavily anchored into concrete and have a heater to prevent condensation + a bag of "Sta-Dry" as a backup (if the calcium carbonate crystals in the "Sta-Dry" turns to water, I'll know my heating rod is malfunctioning and my firearms are in danger of moisture (internally & externally).
Heating rods cost about $28. delivered & will cover up to 100 sq ft (they only get very hot to hold, so not a fire hazard) Rechargeable types like "EVA DRY" are good for those with good memories. I'd always recommend the "Stay-Dry" packets for closets as a back-up to your dehumidifier, though.

You can usually get a 24 gun Sentry Safe from The Home Depot delivered to your door for ~$550. with a decent Security & Fire rating. It should come with enough shelving to set it up with 6 shelves on on side/ or a couple above a dozen rifles or so. They are about the cheapest way to go.
2 guys with a hand dolly can bring it in, down the hallway, & set it up easy enough.

Adequate humidity gauges are cost prohibitive.
Some safes benefit from weather stripping on the door.
Check here for some good budget safes (adequate) info: Gun Safe Reviews | Best Buying Guides of 2013
 
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#9 ·
I have a digital safe from BassPro. It's ok for now. I intend on buying a bigger, nicer safe eventually, and will buy another digital, however, I want one with a key override. If my electrical keypad or lock goes bad, I'm screwed. I need to call a safe/locksmith. Or if it's serious and I need in the safe ASAP, and a lock smith isn't available, I took the inside door apart and taught myself how to break into it if needed. A drill, a chisel, a BIG hammer, and some time will do the trick.

For the time being, not everything is locked up, just in case.
 
#15 ·
I have a liberty fatboy with 11 guage steel. 4 bolts right into the foundation.
Went the route of a safe with 3ga steel, myself. Bolts to the foundation. Well outside the <$800 range, though.



OP, if you've got the patience to hunt around and wait for the right deal to come along then keeping an eye on CraigsList can be a way to get a good safe at a great deal. Found my safe that way, for about one-third of the retail price. Almost bought a smaller TL-30 safe for the sidearms for 1/6th the normal pricing, in fairly good condition.

Business bankruptcies can be a good way to find screamin' deals on safes, too. If you're quick, you can occasionally make a deal before the (other) vultures swoop in to buy up the stuff lock, stock and barrel.

Point being, these can be great ways to get much greater value out of your "safe" dollar. Might take some patience to find the right deal, though.

On CraigsList, right now, there are some ads. For example -- Liberty Gun Safe ... 25 guns.

Over in Miami, there's one listed that's a TL-15, 6ft tall, the sort of safe you pass on to your grandkids -- TL-15 Tall Gun Or Jewelery Safe, $1500 listed. Might be worth the stretch, if you want to purchase once and be done with it.
 
#14 ·
I saw one at Lowes recently w/ a manual combo lock that was made in USA for about $350. I belive it was a Centurion (sp?)
Good luck!
 
#16 ·
I cant recomend a brand but I can share a few words I have learn from reading other stories :

1. No matter the safe with enough time it can be gotten into so
a. if you can put it in a place where it would be hard to just wheel it out ( maybe add reinforcing bars to the room etc)
b. bolt that sucker into the floor and snug agaist the wall ( less room someone has to work on it the better)
c. as for locks get one with a manual backup at least so you can always get in it .

If you can maybe a get a cheep cameira etc to take photos when safe is open so you have proof etc
 
#20 ·
Pay attention to the override...

Wafer locks and Tubular locks are low security locks.... anything by cannon, liberty, etc will most likely not have a cheap Chinese wafer as an override, but most of the lower end safes DO.

A wafer lock is a filing cabinet lock, a paperclip will get you in these.... tubular locks are not any better.

Wafer
Electronic component Technology Electronic device Auto part Hardware accessory


Tubular
Product Cylinder Auto part Hardware accessory
 
#21 ·
Also, what are your thoughts on electronic keypad combo locks? Are they an issue if the battery dies?
I haven't followed the herd, and I like the e-lock. First, I can open the safe in three seconds, try that with the dial. In the dark, a dial is just about impossible. Now, as to the battery dying, I probably had my safe for 5 yrs before I changed the battery (1 9v.) I'm told that the lock doesn't just stop one day, but will become erratic, opening one time and not another. I can't say, but I replaced my battery when I got paranoid (super easy) with a lithium 9v.
I should be good for another 5 yrs.
I too started off looking for a 500# safe that cost about $700, I ended up with a 800# safe that cost $1500 and I never regretted it.
My two rules of safes are:
1. any safe is better than no safe.
2. Get one twice as big as you THINK you need, things grow.

The peace of mind having your guns locked up lasts longer than the pain of writing the check. Don't get into a brand war. People will tell you that nothing but the best will do. While you're saving for that super duper, someone steals your guns or a fire destroys everything. Convince the wife that she can keep her jewelry inside too, and insurance papers, and family photos……all true.
Put it where strangers don't see it. Why would a professional safe cracker come to my house? I worry about the smash and grab crack head, and they aren't bringing tools. Nobody's carrying my safe away.
 
#22 ·
I have a Cannon, the large one from TSC. 6ft tall x 40 wide. It has the electronic SG mechanism. I have had zero issues out of the mechanism in about 6 years. I changed the battery once I think.

I keep long guns and pistols that I don't regularly shoot in it, along with ammo and other stuff. I open it only 3 or 4 times a month usually, sometimes more. I keep my carry pistols in a small electronic safe bolted to the closet shelf close to my side of the bed.
 
#25 ·
I'm a satisfied owner of a Sturdy Safe. Sturdy Gun Safe - Gun Safes : Fire Safe Manufacturer : Sturdy Gun Safe
I researched a lot before purchasing and almost went with a Liberty Safe. To me Sturdy was a better value. My research showed that the sides and top are often attacked by more determined crooks. Sturdy offers a standard 7 gauge shell and several upgrade options, including torch resistant panels that can be added in strategic areas. The fire liner - Kaowool - is definitely up to the task. My workplace uses it to insulate fiberglass furnaces. I went BIG 48x27x72. (Buy once, cry once!) I've been extremely pleased.

Definitely recommend the manual S&G lock. Long term reliability. BTW, you will not be placing this one inside your closet. Shipping weight was ~1400#. I had to use some Egyptian building techniques to get it in place in the garage (broom handle rollers, leverage bars, wood cribbing), but I did it practically alone (wife lent moral support).

Sturdy should be on your short list. Check out "sturdy safe" on youtube and you'll be impressed.
 
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