Hardening your Home?

This is a discussion on Hardening your Home? within the Home (And Away From Home) Defense Discussion forums, part of the Related Topics category; Originally Posted by G23NH Thinking that I will be going with longer screws in all the exterior doors of my 1897 home. Get 4.0 to ...

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Thread: Hardening your Home?

  1. #16
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    Array Rock and Glock's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by G23NH View Post
    Thinking that I will be going with longer screws in all the exterior doors of my 1897 home.
    Get 4.0 to 5.0", hardened! Not those whimpy ones that strip.

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  3. #17
    New Member Array Atticus Rex's Avatar
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    My goal one day is to have one steel door frame and a solid door for the master bedroom, and mylar sheets on the master bedroom window. Buying 10 minutes of time and having your cell phone and whole family in your bedroom will get you far.

    For the impending zombie invastion, I'd love to buy a pair of 40' cargo containers and bury them about 5 feet down, make secured and hidden air ducts for it, and link them with secure doors, fill them with food, water, ammo, and lots of zombie reading material in case they get in and feel like reading something after they eat our brains!

  4. #18
    Member Array Gun Loving Liveral's Avatar
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    I put the longer screws on deadbolts and hinges and then made our bedroom tougher to get in by removing the flimsy interior door and putting up a metal-clad exterior door (just like the entry and exit doors). This door also has reinforced screws and a deadbolt. The bedroom is upstairs, so even if someone carefully breaks and enters a window they have to make considerable noise and take another minute or so. I keep a 12-ga. Mossburg pump near the bed.
    In Oklahoma, even we liberals like guns!

  5. #19
    Member Array yzcrasher's Avatar
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    We have a second floor condo, so windows (unless BG has ladders) are not really a problem. That leaves the main door. It is a metal door, with 2 deadbolts (one has no key on outside, so no picks), and the whimpy handle lock. For flooring we have tile (one sec). With all this we also have one of the "bars" that we wedge on the inside of the door against the floor. Honestly I'm not too worried about someone coming in through that door. Our condo is the safe room..
    ((Place funny, whitty comment here))

  6. #20
    Member Array IronMike's Avatar
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    some things to help
    Thorny bushes under windows.
    Fiberglass reinforced panel(FRP)epoxied to the cheap luann doors used inside most houses.
    big dogs
    It is pardonable to be defeated but never surprised.
    2 Ruger alaskan .454s
    Ruger P95
    Rem 870
    Barrett .50BMG

  7. #21
    Distinguished Member Array Rcher's Avatar
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    Other than the normal deadbolts and window locks, I have installed an alarm system that monitors the outside perimeter of the house. If somebody enters the yard within a specific range, the alarm will sound in the house and the outdoor lights will come on. My system requires 2 movements within a specific zone to trip the alarm. This helps prevent false alarms from small animals.
    "Government is not the solution to our problem; government IS the problem". - Ronald Reagan 1981

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    VIP Member Array dukalmighty's Avatar
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    Viagra in the water heater?
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    --Mayor Marion Barry, Washington , DC .

  9. #23
    tjm
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    This is an old book. I wish there was something equivalent that was more recent:

    Amazon.com: The Complete Book of Locks, Keys, Burglar and Smoke Alarms, and Other Security Devices: Eugene A. Sloane: Books

    Anyway, I was really impressed with the guy's attitude about hardening a home. He had a lot of police photos of break ins and invasions and he would show what failed. He showed how to reinforce a door frame, doors, any weak point. He didn't take much for granted. He would buy lock sets and cut them apart to see which ones were more vulnerable to saws, grabbing & twisting, whatever. He illustrated using a Fox Police Bar on doors and other things that could surely buy you time. If your library has a copy it would still be worth reading.

  10. #24
    Ex Member Array United93's Avatar
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    Thank you, tjm. I just ordered it from the library.

  11. #25
    New Member Array G23NH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rock and Glock View Post
    Get 4.0 to 5.0", hardened! Not those whimpy ones that strip.
    Fully agree with that comment - if it is not Grade 5 / Grade 8 or a steel screw US Made then I didn't buy it - I cant stand cheap hardware that strips or breaks!
    NRA Member

  12. #26
    Member Array hihosilver's Avatar
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    AMong other things, I believe the security bars that wedge between the door handle and floor work very well. If someone wanted to kick down your door. This would slow them down at least the extra 5-10 seconds that you need to pick up you ur gun and take a covered position and get the family in the planned meeting place or room. Having a family plan is at the top of the list. Also make sure you replace cheap locks with a higher security lock with security pins or double sided keys that make them harder to pick or bump. Camera systems that can record hours of up to 6 cameras are affordable these days also. I also have a maltese that is the best alarm ever. Small dog but very good alarm. Depends on the dog. I had one dog that would have probably just licked the bad guy to death. His breath alone would have rendered the BG unconscious.
    Be careful what you wish for. You just might get it ......

  13. #27
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    A few custom touches . . .

    I incorporated a few special features when I built my home, which help to harden it --

    1) The driveway is 800 ft long, uphill. It terminates in front of the house, and my main living area is upstairs. There is no place in the last 100 feet to turn around, so visitors are essentially trapped in a gauntlet. Motion detector on the driveway for the alarm, flood lights pointing from the house to the driveway -- anybody coming up at night is illuminated, but can't see me because they are looking into the lights.

    2) It isn't as much as I would like, but the gable end that faces the driveway/parking area is double-sheathed in 5/8-inch plywood. Add drywall and interior planking, and many or most pistol rounds will be stopped. My eventual plan is to add steel sheeting under the siding on both sides of each window.

    3) All my exterior doors swing out -- they are steel doors on heavy frames with long heavy screws driven deep into the jack studs. Out-swing doors are nearly impossible to kick in (and hard to source). When I did the framing, I framed the door openings narrower than is usually done, so there would be less space to shim making the frame stronger.

    4) All windows on the ground floor are very small to crawl through. Not impossible, but not easy. They would not meet egress requirements for bedrooms.

    5) Windows upstairs are all 14 feet off the ground. The egress from the bedroom is a door to a small balcony, where there is an escape ladder stored. No access from the ground, and again the door is an out-swing.

    Other than these things, the topography and vegetation of my property does most of my hardening. One way in, one way out. Long walk through t tough terrain out the back, and a commanding view of access from the road side.

    My driveway gate isn't what I want it to be yet, but it is in the works. I'm designing a sliding gate built of rectangular tubing that when finished will look like a three-rail fence. I'll build it so it can't be rammed coming in, and I'll be able to close it remotely to stop a fleeing criminal. I hope to have it lock down if the alarm is tripped, so that they have to leave their vehicle on my driveway (to help identify them, and so my stuff doesn't leave!).

    I haven't yet finished plans for a safe room, but do have space set aside downstairs -- it will be concrete walled with a reinforced door.

    If none of this works, they'll have to deal with me and the .45, the AR-15, the Mossburg 590, etc.

    CPLincoln

  14. #28
    Ex Member Array United93's Avatar
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    CPLincoln - I think you have most (OK, some : )) of us beat. Nice going! You should consider Shatterguard for the windows.

  15. #29
    Ex Member Array JOHNSMITH's Avatar
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    As far as the windows, even just putting some light tinting or UV blocking clear film will help make them much more shatter resistant, which would help even in storms as well with smaller debris.

  16. #30
    Ex Member Array United93's Avatar
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    paul34 - Could you post a link?

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