Hardening your Home?

This is a discussion on Hardening your Home? within the Home (And Away From Home) Defense Discussion forums, part of the Related Topics category; I change the lowest glass panel of my rear door to a double pain with a glued lament so if somebody would break the panel ...

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Thread: Hardening your Home?

  1. #31
    VIP Member Array HKinNY's Avatar
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    I change the lowest glass panel of my rear door to a double pain with a glued lament so if somebody would break the panel and try to reach in looking for the key they will have a hard times breaking thru the glass.

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  3. #32
    Member Array C Paul Lincoln's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by United93 View Post
    paul34 - Could you post a link?
    Look at this stuff: Madico Window Films

    It is what I've considered for my French doors and first-floor windows. I've debated between film and polycarbonate for the window in my front door.

    CPL

  4. #33
    VIP Member Array Thanis's Avatar
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    Just wanted to add my $.02.

    Maybe one of the most missed items is a dead bolt. Handel locks are all but worthless.

    There are may other important items to consider, but dead bolts should be one of them.
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  5. #34
    Member Array Fred's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by United93 View Post
    Hello to all!

    Have any of you 'hardened your home' physically past installing sturdy locks & doors? I suspect many have, and am curious as to what you did.

    For example, anyone with shatter-resistant windows? Bullet-resistant walls? Steel doors? Feel free to post what you have.

    NOTE - I am only asking about PHYSICAL barriers here, so alarms / cameras / lights / intercoms do not count.

    Thanks in advance!
    Are you trying to make it a little harder to get into or a lot harder? Are you worried about burglary or a dedicated intruder?

    Don't think locks will keep anybody out that wants in. It will only discourage them a little. Ask yourself what it would take to keep out a SWAT team.

    You might think of Hesco barriers.

    Seriously you need to ask yourself the level of security desired and what you can afford. Not all buildings are easy to retrofit. Too many easy ways in and out.

  6. #35
    Distinguished Member Array nutz4utwo's Avatar
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    here are some basic things:

    Exterior lights. Motion detectors are good, clear visibility from the street- bad guys like to be hidden while entering and exiting. Dogs are a plus. Good neighbors who know what is normal for your house and are not afraid to call you or 911 if they see something strange. Thorny bushes. Peep hole. Don't forget the garage door and the garage to house door.

    Teach the other members of your household discipline on locking things, answering the door, closing garage door, turning alarms on... many "security improvements" do nothing because people don't use them! (A moat is useless if the guy operating the draw bridge is an idiot)

    Walk around your house and see how many ways you can break in. I bet I could find at least a dozen. Then improve those areas and repeat.
    It is very difficult to harden a home against invasion. You are better off trying to make yourself look like a poor target. A well lit, well kept, occupied house with thorny bushes, good visibility to the street, and the sprinklers on makes for a wet and prickly night for a BG. They will most likely just move onto next door.

  7. #36
    Ex Member Array United93's Avatar
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    Thank you CPL.

    Fred - The point of the thread was to ascertain what other members have done to harden their homes against intruders. I did not say anything about my own efforts nor did I ask for advice as to what to do. Apparently you have taken the path of least resistance when it comes to HD. That is a mistake that can cost you your life.
    -----------------------------------------------------
    My goals for my future home are: concrete walls, steel doors, shatter-resistant windows, possibly steel shutters, and a good alarm/surveillance system. A perimeter fence with sensors will encircle the property, and a remote-activated gate will adorn the entrance to the driveway. In addition, there will be a 'safe' room which will provide yet another layer of defense.

    All that will not be to keep out trained assassins with demolition and my demise on their minds. However, it will give me time to prepare in case of a serious attack, and it will, in all likelyhood, discourage any theives (especially since the house will be small and modest-looking). Comments, criticism, advice, recommendations, etc. are welcome.

  8. #37
    VIP Member Array HKinNY's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by C Paul Lincoln View Post
    Look at this stuff: Madico Window Films

    It is what I've considered for my French doors and first-floor windows. I've debated between film and polycarbonate for the window in my front door.

    CPL
    If you use a film the key is to remove the window frame and slip the film under the trim to help re-enforce the film.

  9. #38
    Senior Member Array jualdeaux's Avatar
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    You guys would love where I live. I have a minimum of 10 inches of steel reinforced concrete and 3 foot of dirt on 5 out of 6 sides my the house. That includes the garage. the house itself is sectioned off into 4 areas, the garage, the family living area, the utility room and extra bedrooms and the master bedroom/bath. Each section has an 8 inch reinforced concrete divider/support wall with a steel fire door leading to each section. The main entrance has a small foyer that has the same steel doors on both the outer and inner doors.

    The only weak points are the sliding glass door in the master bedroom, and the large skylight in the living area. If I were to own it, I'd take that sliding glass door out and put some other sort of door that is more secure. That door has to be there to make the second exit from the house.
    Bend the knees, smooth is fast, watch the front sight.

  10. #39
    Ex Member Array JOHNSMITH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by United93 View Post
    paul34 - Could you post a link?
    You can actually just talk to any professional tinter who does residential and commercial buildings if you're interested. The film they use does have some strength to it, and since its applied to the window, it should provide a bit of additional shatter resistance to the window. Obviously, its hard to get any type of window that will seriously stop anyone (except maybe unattractive burglar bars, or those plastic windows they have), but it could help those people who just smash and run.

  11. #40
    Member Array Beretta96's Avatar
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    I've found most older side sliding windows can be taken out easily by just lifting them up and out of the track even when the window is closed. Put a few screws into the track just above the slider side and the window can't be lifted out. Sliding glass doors have the same vulnerability.
    Nevada CFP
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  12. #41
    Distinguished Member Array nutz4utwo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jualdeaux View Post
    You guys would love where I live. I have a minimum of 10 inches of steel reinforced concrete and 3 foot of dirt on 5 out of 6 sides my the house. That includes the garage. the house itself is sectioned off into 4 areas, the garage, the family living area, the utility room and extra bedrooms and the master bedroom/bath. Each section has an 8 inch reinforced concrete divider/support wall with a steel fire door leading to each section. The main entrance has a small foyer that has the same steel doors on both the outer and inner doors.

    The only weak points are the sliding glass door in the master bedroom, and the large skylight in the living area. If I were to own it, I'd take that sliding glass door out and put some other sort of door that is more secure. That door has to be there to make the second exit from the house.
    Wow. You don't live in a prison do you? Civil defense bunker? Hydroelectric dam? Do you own a concrete factory?

    Your info says you are in Waponi Woo, the tiny pacific island Waponi Woo? Seen any volcanoes recently?

  13. #42
    New Member Array Psychman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tros View Post
    I used longer screws (simple, but extremely effective), installed a grade 1 lock, installed a chain lock, installed a peephole, increased lighting at entryways, and finally, installed a simple magnetic sounding alarm when triggered (for less than $15, I love them --- they are LOUD)

    Would all of this keep out a determined attacker? Nope, there is a large window in my living room (which can not be opened, but broken, yes)... Buuuut, if a person decides to go through the door, I am more prepared than many.

    Two dogs, and whatever weapon I have on me. :)

    Also, just to add, I'd gladly do some more permanent improvements, but I rent at the moment, and it simply wouldn't be cost effective in my opinion.

    Where did you get the alarm you mentioned?

  14. #43
    VIP Member Array cdwolf's Avatar
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    I would bet I could open 95% of the locks on my street.
    Just because you have a deadbolt, don't think they don't have a key.
    Kwikset just came out with a new lock that has bumpguard and I would recommend that everyone know what type of lock you have.
    I have done this with 5 of the most popular brands, so I can say it is soooo simple.
    LOCK UP!

    YouTube - Bump Key HOWTO
    GUN CONTROL= I WANT TO BE THE ONE IN CONTROL OF THE GUN

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  15. #44
    VIP Member Array cdwolf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Psychman View Post
    Where did you get the alarm you mentioned?
    Any big box home improvement store will have them.
    GUN CONTROL= I WANT TO BE THE ONE IN CONTROL OF THE GUN

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  16. #45
    Member Array sideKahr's Avatar
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    Here are some things that haven't been mentioned yet:

    I've replaced all my lightweight screen doors with heavy steel storm doors with double cylinder deadbolt locks. All the manufacturers screws have been replaced with 3.5 inch screws that reach to the studs, and I've drilled holes and added extra screws that cannot be reached from the outside. The doors open outwards, of course, so cannot be kicked in. The steel bars are decorative but functional, and I can now leave my doors open in the summer.

    Inside, I've hardened my solid wood bedroom door with deeper screws, replacing one in each hinge with a double-headed nail so the door cannot be removed by pulling the hinge pins. I've done the same thing to a bedroom closet, which is where all valuables and power tools go when I'm on vacation. Both have deadbolt locks. It's not perfect, but will slow up or even stop a smash and grab type burglary.

    And of course all the ground floor basement windows in my older home have been replaced with glass block.
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