Can ya'll help me move an outbuilding?

This is a discussion on Can ya'll help me move an outbuilding? within the Off Topic & Humor Discussion forums, part of the The Back Porch category; I have a 12x12 outbuilding, it's a kitchen actually. It's very heavy. The floor framing is 2x10's with 2x12 double bands. 2x4 walls, 2x6 ceiling ...

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Thread: Can ya'll help me move an outbuilding?

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    Senior Member Array jca1's Avatar
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    Can ya'll help me move an outbuilding?

    I have a 12x12 outbuilding, it's a kitchen actually.

    It's very heavy. The floor framing is 2x10's with 2x12 double bands. 2x4 walls, 2x6 ceiling joists, 2x6 rafters, 7/16's OSB roof and wall sheathing, vinyl siding, 3/4 advantech floor sheathing, insulated, sheetrocked walls and ceiling, vinyl sheet floor with 1/4 underlayment, metal house door, two windows, trimmed out, cabinets, and shingled.

    I need to move it about 100'.

    I have no clue how to do it because of the weight. I fear jacking and rolling on pipes won't work.

    Any ideas? Anyone done anything like this before?
    If I gave a crap about what you think about my guns.....it was early this morning and I already flushed it!

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    Distinguished Member Array Arko's Avatar
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    What's the terrain? If it's smooth and level you should be ok pipe rolling it. I did one once, and we used 1" steel pipes as rollers over grass, then switched to machine caster pads on the driveway.

    I've also seen temporary frames shimmied under small structures, and then lifted with a forklift.
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    Quote Originally Posted by jca1 View Post
    I have a 12x12 outbuilding, it's a kitchen actually.

    It's very heavy. The floor framing is 2x10's with 2x12 double bands. 2x4 walls, 2x6 ceiling joists, 2x6 rafters, 7/16's OSB roof and wall sheathing, vinyl siding, 3/4 advantech floor sheathing, insulated, sheetrocked walls and ceiling, vinyl sheet floor with 1/4 underlayment, metal house door, two windows, trimmed out, cabinets, and shingled.

    I need to move it about 100'.

    I have no clue how to do it because of the weight. I fear jacking and rolling on pipes won't work.

    Any ideas? Anyone done anything like this before?
    If they can move the space shuttle, basically on rollers, I think that you should be able to pull this room on metal pipes.
    I have moved 16' x 20' completed buildings with windows and doors in this manner...have lots of help, a good tractor or 4x4, and you can do it...if you are going over open ground.
    You could hire a car transport flatbed truck to pull it up and move it, but moving it is not impossible with the metal pipe method.
    The last Blood Moon Tetrad for this millennium starts in April 2014 and ends in September 2015...according to NASA.

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    Senior Member Array jca1's Avatar
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    The terrain is smooth but it's soft.
    If I gave a crap about what you think about my guns.....it was early this morning and I already flushed it!

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    Quote Originally Posted by jca1 View Post
    The terrain is smooth but it's soft.
    Use bigger pipes......now is the time to move it if the ground is somewhat frozen...just go SLOW.
    The last Blood Moon Tetrad for this millennium starts in April 2014 and ends in September 2015...according to NASA.

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    Senior Member Array jca1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by retsupt99 View Post
    If they can move the space shuttle, basically on rollers, I think that you should be able to pull this room on metal pipes.
    Well, I guess you have a point there.
    If I gave a crap about what you think about my guns.....it was early this morning and I already flushed it!

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    Distinguished Member Array Colin's Avatar
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    You could lay 3-4 pipes or planks in the direction of travel, then have the pipes supporting the building roll on those. Make sure you have two sets of the pipes/planks you intend to let the others roll on, that way you can lay the second set along ahead of the building but leave a decent overlap between the sets. If there is any slope even a couple of degrees the building might start heading in that direction. Also if the ground is soft wait till it's dry to prevent the pipes/planks from sinking in. Good luck and we want to see pictures.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Colin View Post
    You could lay 3-4 pipes or planks in the direction of travel, then have the pipes supporting the building roll on those. Make sure you have two sets of the pipes/planks you intend to let the others roll on, that way you can lay the second set along ahead of the building but leave a decent overlap between the sets. If there is any slope even a couple of degrees the building might start heading in that direction. Also if the ground is soft wait till it's dry to prevent the pipes/planks from sinking in. Good luck and we want to see pictures.
    Excellent point, I've never done it that way, but that's a great idea!
    The last Blood Moon Tetrad for this millennium starts in April 2014 and ends in September 2015...according to NASA.

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    Senior Member Array jca1's Avatar
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    thanks everyone
    If I gave a crap about what you think about my guns.....it was early this morning and I already flushed it!

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    Senior Member Array tbrenke's Avatar
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    soft ground requires a plywood base to roll over.
    this will spread the load over a greater area and keep the digging to a min.
    larger dia pipes will help on seams.

    also I would use 3/4 plywood if you can aford it.
    if not, I would use quite a few 2x6 layed out stagered. 1/2 length overlap so that there is no seam to roll over. (that is 1/2 overlap side by side. don't stack them)
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    Think brakes,don't forget to have a way to slow down and stop that thing if it gets a shot of acceleration.Past experience is a wonderful lesson
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    Be sure to take a videos, too. If nothing else they may be useful on America's Funniest Home Videos.

    Seriously, I would make for-reals sure I knew what the slope was: I'm guessing that ANY downhill slope should be taken very, very seriously.
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    Look up Wally Wallington.
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    Is it on skids? Wooden Piers? Concrete Blocks? How is the foundation supported? What is the beam spacing? Are they continuous? What about utilities connected? Water, Electric, Phone Gas..

    It sounds like a structure similar to a large storage building, and perhaps was designed on skids to be relocated. If so you should be able to move without much damage, otherwise the foundation could come apart unless you have it riding on an independent support.
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    Plywood highway is the way to go. We move concert stages this way when necessary and it works like a charm. be very careful if the ground is to soft and you are pulling the structure with a vehicle. If there is any slope involved put some good thought into some sort of breaking system. Is there any sort of piping, conduit, or electrical stubbed through the bottom that needs to be addressed? What is the final resting place like? Bottom line take your time, slow and steady wins the race.

    Starting off with a list of questions like this will only help you to plan the move accordingly. Undoubtedly you will notice something that you hadn't thought of while writing it all down.

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