New formula gun scrubber
This is a discussion on New formula gun scrubber within the Related Gear & Equipment forums, part of the Defensive Carry Discussions category; A friend was told by a gun store that all new Gun Scrubber is synthetic safe.
He called Birchwood Casey and they confirmed this is ...
March 15th, 2011 06:08 PM
New formula gun scrubber
A friend was told by a gun store that all new Gun Scrubber is synthetic safe.
He called Birchwood Casey and they confirmed this is true.
They made the change because the old system was confusing for some????
There is still some of the OLD non safe stuff on some shelves so you have to read the fine print for a while to be sure it's synthetic safe.
Credit to Ron!!!!!!!!
" Keep On Packin' On The Bimah"
March 18th, 2011 10:32 PM
Knew a guy got a Berretta 92 in stainless steel finish and used GS on it...should have been a warning in their literature for that gun. It's not "all" stainless steel, but a colored finish, that the GS promptly took off , leaving it somewhat stainless swirly dark colored finish. He talked with sales people/reps (that had assured him it was ok to use) and they shipped it back-got him a new gun.
I would be careful "what" I used it on and make sure finish not coming off or that it "weakens" the part. Also, would not use it on a Glock or any Tupperwear gun or parts thereof. Hopefully the new stuff is good.
Personally on my steel guns like the 1911A1, I use plain old carberator cleaner and re-oil everything (cause Gumout Carb Cleaner takes ALL the oil off it). In old days it's what we used to take cosmoline (some horrible grease that 3rd world countries developed out of God knows what, thats a headache to gun owners) out/off guns. It rolls the stuff right out like liquified gravy. Like Hopps Copper remover for soaking the barrel in. Lube I use the Breakfree or if you can find it, Lube 1 (made by Slick 50) that coats and makes it nearly rustproof/waterproof. Any rust spot can be erased with a regular #2 lead pencil eraser and lead it back with the lead from pencil, then touch-up blue & oil it. The old 1911 clips I used to practice with at the range in the rain or whatever, I coated in carnauba wax (yep, plain old car wax) and wiped down. They don't rust, drop free like greased okra down a hound-dog's neck and are waterproof. I personally don't like night sights (because they glow-and will light "your" face up too and are hard to see in bright sunlight) so I use some regular old model car luminious paint to tag just the "front" sight...it's the one that counts. If shooting in bright sun, we used to take a zippo and "black" the sights out from the rising soot off flame-it really helps. Safe shooting!
March 19th, 2011 12:25 AM
Do you know how long it's been changed? The reason I ask is that I've been frustrated trying to find synthetic safe GS lately....it does not say it in big letters on the front label anymore. I am wondering if it is somewhere small on there in another place now - maybe in small lettering????. In fact I sort of complained (nicely) to my favorite shop that they don't seem to have it anymore.
Where do I look for the synthetic safe words?
I've used it happily on several kinds of plastic guns. I really like the product.
ps. just went to their website, and it no longer says ss on the front of the product. Thanks for this post, as I am getting low on this cleaner and now I will look at it again and hopefully it's the new stuff I am seeing on the shelves. (yes I will read the fine print, that is if I remember a magnifying glass!)
March 19th, 2011 10:21 PM
I've NEVER liked the idea of blasting solvent all over the place on my guns. I apply solvents sparingly and precisely with a q-tip, patch, or pipe cleaner - depending on what I'm cleaning. I became even more attentive to this after an armorer at a GSSF event tore apart my Glock, cleaned it out, and told me to make sure to NEVER get solvent into the striker channel. Yes, it takes more time, but I think it is worth it. YMMV.
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