How to clean a revolver

How to clean a revolver

This is a discussion on How to clean a revolver within the Related Gear & Equipment forums, part of the Defensive Carry Discussions category; Im assuming its very simple. My father has some revolvers that he has not cleaned in years, (shot very little too) but Im not sure ...

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Thread: How to clean a revolver

  1. #1
    Member Array floridaguy911's Avatar
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    Question How to clean a revolver

    Im assuming its very simple. My father has some revolvers that he has not cleaned in years, (shot very little too) but Im not sure if there is anything special to do. Im assuming that you do the barrel the same way you do an auto.. hoppes or CLP, patch until clean.. and probably inside each chamber. then maybe oil the wheel lightly on each end where it spins?... then wipe dry. Let me know if im missing anything..
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    VIP Member Array Bud White's Avatar
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    nope thats a basic clean there itll work might want to pull grips off oil the springs

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    Member Array floridaguy911's Avatar
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    thanks Bud
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    One point to note - the mass of a revo cylinder is very significant so - open and close under control of free hand - no swing open hard or slam shut!!!

    Failure to heed this could at worst distort the crane pivot and lead to a misalignment.

    Cradle the cylinder firmly when it is open and using cleaning stuff Oh and - check ejector rod for being snugged up - if that loosens it can prevent closure.
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    Member Array floridaguy911's Avatar
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    Thanks Chris. very useful. I already cleaned the .44 per procedures mentioned above. I Did naturally take care of the cylinder even though i wasnt 'officially' aware of doing so.

    How do I check the ejector rod for tightness?? I CLP'd the cylinders, and shot a little under that plate on top that the ejector rod is hooked to - to eject the ammunition. It 'felt' fine to me though. it was springy and had resistance.
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    VIP Member Array Bud White's Avatar
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    on a ruger depenging on model it cant come loose super redhawks and gp-100's are pinned i dont remember on redhawk


    security six screws on

    i don't remember what you were shooting besides the ruger

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    Member Array floridaguy911's Avatar
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    I was shooting the Redhawk 44, he has a .45 blackhawk that has not been cleaned.
    Im also going hunting this year with my father and brother.. its been 2 years! any tips on cleaning of rifles or shotguns??
    AND---- Do I need to use a diff. solvent now that 9 doesnt take out copper? I did look at that blue lightning or whatever you mentioned on a previous thread- it removes copper, but they were out of stock (Midway- good stuff there, thanks for the link!)
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    VIP Member Array Bud White's Avatar
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    hoppes #9 works good for powder fouling

    shooter choice works well for copper but it stinks

    cleaning the black hawk is easy remove basepin pull cylinder clean as you did redhawk

    for shotgun i prefer to remove barrel and clean it then the action separate

    on the rifle depends what it is be it semi or bolt or lever gun

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    Member Array floridaguy911's Avatar
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    Bolt action 30-06 http://gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.asp?item=53442555

    Shotgun is a 12 ga. pump..Had it about 11 years, shot MANY dove and snipe with it. never cleaned it ever. i believe its a 30" barrel, full choke.

    Might not hurt to have it re-rifled? (shotgun) its an older shotgun. I believe its called a Revelation. Dont laugh, I learned with this gun.. LOL, it was WAY too long for me when i was 15. I was told it was actually made by a subdivision of Remington but who knows. im getting off topic.
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    Member Array floridaguy911's Avatar
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    ----ADDED NOTE- i will be using 1oz Sabot Expanding slugs in my shotgun, which says it need shotguns with rifling. I actually need to check if its rifled to be honest. I thought it was.
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    Ahh - well yeah if Ruger the ejector rod is pinned - comes with factory included rattle

    I was thinking of Smith type rods, sorry - where they are threaded - LH thread on most modern ones.

    Re the ejector ''star" - well, good to keep a small amount of lube on the rod underneath but beware the occasional situation where a flake of unburned powder or fragment of brass even - can lodge under that - so clean well under it - another aspect that could cause closure difficulty and stiff cyl rotation.
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    Quote Originally Posted by floridaguy911
    ----ADDED NOTE- i will be using 1oz Sabot Expanding slugs in my shotgun, which says it need shotguns with rifling. I actually need to check if its rifled to be honest. I thought it was.
    Be careful with the choke! A slug too big for the choke with either blow the barrel, or rip the choke out the end of the barrel with the slug. Don't know anything about your specific shotgun, but might want to ask a gunsmith if nobody here has specific knowledge.
    eschew obfuscation

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    VIP Member Array Bud White's Avatar
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    no slug with full choke bad idea

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    Member Array floridaguy911's Avatar
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    Question

    Quote Originally Posted by Bud White
    no slug with full choke bad idea

    So any slug with a full choke is a bad idea? Even if its a 3/4 oz (384 grain?) barnes expander- Instead of the Federal Vital-Shok 1oz? Dont know if you need to know this but the gun is chambered for 2&3/4 AND 3" mag shells. What would be the quickest cost effective solution for this problem if the 3" mag capability has no bearing on the situation. Get a new barrel? or just get a new gun that is not choked?
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    Guys - a request - we have some major thread drift and shotguns is well away from revo cleaning!

    The shotgun subject is quite a useful one in its own right so would suggest if that to continue - start a thread in ''Defensive Rifles and Shotguns'' section.
    Chris - P95
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    is like owning a piano and assuming that you are a musician!."


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