Not quite sure about specifically for safes. I would imagine that residential or commercial grades of lighting would be the same. What makes them specific lighting for safes? I mean---what's different about the products?? More than likely--'specific' items cost more, and are nothing more than the same products packages with 'specific' usage instructions. Personally, I don't see anything wrong with the usual lighting in 120v, 24v, or 12v. LED's are very bright--if you get a plug-in wall converter to 12vdc, then the hole you'd need to drill through your safe would be smaller compared to running the 120v power supply in. On the other hand, LED's could be wired up to some form of stand-alone battery system that could be rechargeable--therefore doing away with the need to drill any holes through your safe for wiring. Your imagination is the limit, and you can do your own basic wiring as far as switch installation--just make sure your devices are rated for the wiring scheme. Good luck.

 

I just keep an extra LED flashlight on the front of the top shelf...no lighting problem...:image035beats drilling any holes)OMO

 

Browning makes a safe specific lighting kit.

 

How about those LED touch lights that you can get.

Battery operated so no wires and they velcro to any surface.

 

That's what we did for ours, picked up 3 of them and stuck them in the safe.:yup:

 

Large safes, even fire-resistant ones, all have a hole in the back. That's for the power cord for the Golden Rod that they assume you will use in your safe. So as long as the cord isn't too large, no additional holes are needed.

The light that I saw was your standard rope lighting (LED) and it was clamped in place around the door frame giving a lot of light most everywhere in the safe. Home Depot sells standard rope lighting. I think that the 18' version was ~$10 when I looked a week ago.

The only thing "special" about it was that a proximity switch was wired into the circuit. So, like the alarm sensors used for windows that switches if the two parts are separated (e.g. window open or door open in this case), the light is switched on or off.

When I saw it in the friend's safe, I couldn't see if this was a 12V or 120V unit, but I'll assume 120V and he didn't remember any details about it.

The reason I'd pay "extra" for a "special light" would be to avoid the need to make a kluge of the light by cutting into the wire, inserting switches, soldering/splicing, running more wire to the switches, etc.

The nearest safe company that sells this stuff is in no man's land many miles from me. Their website doesn't do more than list some brands of safes, and although I see them at area gun shows, the next such show in this area is in September and I've never seen this product at the shows, they only bring safes and racks. I may have to just call them and perhaps order it and have them ship it, if I can't find anything anywhere else. They don't offer any bargains, so it would probably be significantly cheaper anywhere else.

The Browning unit is $70 for a single tube (non-bendable). Too much money if you were to put 3 of them inside so you get light on all 3 sides.

I had a stick-on battery LED light stuck on the inside of the door. Better than nothing, but didn't throw an even light inside safe very well.

 

Rope Light Kit For Gun Safe

I've only been able to find one place that carries a rope light kit made specifically for gun safes. Here is the link: Interior Light Kit - SafeAccessories.com

It's $99 plus shipping. If your handy, you can build one for around 20 bucks. (DigiKey has the magnetic proximity switches for around $3.00, Rope is $8.00 on ebay, tranformer is $10 at RadioShack).

Browning make a CFL style too. Here's a link to a place selling them for $57: LG Outdoors: Browning Safe Accessories Interior Lighting Kit Md: 164111, Browning Gun Safe Accessories

 

I've only been able to find one place that carries a rope light kit made specifically for gun safes. Here is the link: Interior Light Kit - SafeAccessories.com

It's $99 plus shipping. If your handy, you can build one for around 20 bucks. (DigiKey has the magnetic proximity switches for around $3.00, Rope is $8.00 on ebay, tranformer is $10 at RadioShack).

Browning make a CFL style too. Here's a link to a place selling them for $57: LG Outdoors: Browning Safe Accessories Interior Lighting Kit Md: 164111, Browning Gun Safe Accessories

Thanks. The first one looks like what I saw and exactly what I'm looking for. That's also about what I'd expect for "specialized" product, price-wise. :icon_neutral:

Since they use special molded connectors for the rope lighting, I don't desire to cut and splice, try to get it back together without looking like a kluge (and keep in mind that the floor gets crowded with rifle butts). You pay a dear price for that ability when you buy their custom product, that is for sure.


The Browning unit isn't nearly as efficient as the ropelighting unit, wrt light coverage. To buy enough pieces to give decent coverage far exceeds the ropelighting cost, even at $99.

That's what we did for ours, picked up 3 of them and stuck them in the safe.:yup:

Tried that. Doesn't put the light where you need it or it gets in the way.

Sadly, my safe isn't big enough to need a light....

Only solution is to buy a bigger one! :rofl:

If you buy it, you will fill it!! That I can assure you. :haha:

 

Sadly, my safe isn't big enough to need a light....

 

The browning light, they say to just leave it on all the time for the warming/non-condensing effects. It is just a cold cathode ray tube. You can buy them cheaper if you buy as a computer "case mod" Note you would need both the adapter and (a few) bulbs:

- Case-Mod.com - Case Mods, Cases, Power Supplies, and Cooling for Home Theater and Gaming Systems

Solve the switch problem by leaving it on all the time. Electricity use is minimal. You could also go with a refrigerator light switch. I know you said you didn't want to mess with all this junk, but you have pretty specific requirements and that often means you have to custom make things yourself.

some sort of motion detector light socket might work too. You could just add some cheap rope lights to it...

Amazon.com: First Alert Motion Sensing Light Socket #PIR720RN: Home Improvement


G.E. Refrigerator Light Switch - AZ Partsmaster

 

Thanks.

No need to keep a light on all the time, I have a Golden-rod for that and the safe is in a well-controlled environment.

I called the local safe company and they no longer sell the ropelight kit. They do sell the Ft. Knox variety with 4 or 5 fluorescent lights for ~$250/kit.

Best bet seems to be either the DIY approach or the kit for $99 mentioned above.