I'm not certain I can squeeze in any more range time in my month.
This is a discussion on Reloaders??? within the Reloading forums, part of the Defensive Ammunition & Ballistics category; Price out some reloading components and do the math. I'm sure that with 6000 rounds a month (!) you'll break even in no time at ...
Price out some reloading components and do the math. I'm sure that with 6000 rounds a month (!) you'll break even in no time at all, even if you count your time as worth something in the equation.
I'd go with a 1050 or a Hornady LNL AP, either one with a case feeder for that much pistol ammo.
Oh, and just to set you straight it's a common misconception that reloading saves money. In actuality it just lets you shoot more for the same budget
I'm not certain I can squeeze in any more range time in my month.
FWIW, I just saw a "Shooting Gallery" or similar program where they went to RCBS, and did there history, development etc. They have a bullet feed module that you attach to their progressive that rights, then sets the bullet in the case mouth, eliminating a step (my favorite) and increasing the output a whole bunch. Pretty cool gizmo, but annoying as it makes an electric whirr all the time. Like I said FWIW, but I have allways had good luck with their products, maybe worth checking out. Many, more veteran reloaders out there seem to favor the Dillon and I am sure for good reason.
One interesting note is that not only does RCBS make their own dies they make (then paint) dies for a competitor.
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S&W .41 Mag - Colt DS - Ruger Single Six - Ruger Security Six - Buckmark-Beretta 21A - S&W 351PD 22 Mag- Spfld XD 9mm -- Plenty Of Long Guns--- Dry Powder and RCBS.
Most of your professional shooters drink the blue Kool aid. Also if I am not mistaken the 1050 is considered there commercial press therefore not covered under the no BS warranty. The 650 would be my choice. I have several friends that shoot that much ammo during the summer season.
Reloading is fairly spendy when you first get started. (like a lot of other hobbies I guess) But well worth it when it starts paying for itself. I think you will be happy not too far down the road, realizing how much money you are saving at the rate that you go through the rounds which you already know. But you will also be happy once you see all of the different recipies that you will eventually call some of them, your favorite. Yeah it does take some time to load and is an investment but I think all in all you will find it worth it if you are able to put some time aside for it. And MAN! You ought to have a TON of brass saved up by now!!
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I would get the 650 over the 1050. The 1050 shines in two ways, having a primer pocket swage on the press and priming on the downstroke, which is inherently faster than any other press.
If you aren't swaging military brass or can deal with having to push forward to prime the brass, then the 650 is the way to go. The 650 can load almost as fast as the 1050 but is a third of the cost and has a lifetime warranty. Don't buy the "commercial grade" marketing crap of the 1050. A lot more commercial reloaders use a 550 or 650 than do a 1050. They use that excuse of "commercial grade" because there is no competition for that market of the press features so why offer a warranty to be competitive?
I'm a small time ammo reloader and use the 1050's for only those cartridges that may have military brass that needs swaging of the primer pockets to remove the crimp, being 9mm, .45, .308, and 30-06. I love the operation and smoothness of the press, especially with pistol ammo. Rifle ammo I process off the 1050 by using an automated 650 stripped down (no primer system or powder measure) to bare bones. I set a RCBS lube die with Dillon trimmer die in the toolhead and 7/8 tpi threaded blanks to stabilize the toolhead. Turn on the case feed, push start on the automated motor and go do something else. It lubes, sizes, decaps, and trims to length automatically. Just tumble the lube off then load on the 1050 like normal but no sizing; a universal decapping die in station 2 to poke the flashhole clean and that's it. Much smoother loading then.
07/02 FFL/SOT since 2006
Probably the only home based FFL that doesn't do transfers.
I recommend each of your shooting buddies get a Lee classic turret press each....get a different powder for each guy and bullet as well.I can crank out 200 rds. A hour. And for a good price...
Get the 650,buy powder and primers online in quantity,just bought 15,000 small pistol Tula primers and 16 pounds of Unique from "Powder Valley" last week.I cast and lube my own lead bullets,and with no charge for brass I can reload 380,9mm,38/357,40,45 acp for about $5.00 100,44 mag is about $6.00 100.
If you buy bullets and your shooting glocks or any pistol they recommend no lead bullets in it will be worth the cost to buy an aftermarket Lone Wolf barrel to allow you to shoot the cheaper bullets
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Agree mostly with dukalmighty. For true volume and ease, it's hard to beat a Dillon 650. I use "fast" powders in everything, including light to medium magnum loads (WW231, Titegroup, etc). It is MUCH cleaner burning, and the pressure curve works well in almost ANY automatic. I would suggest plated bullets, considering your volume. Almost as cheap as lead, easier to keep dies clean and working, easier to clean the gun as well. Also, overlooked is the pressure to drive them to the same speed as jacketed is much less, nearly what lead would be. That means less powder, and less wear and tear on the gun, another plus with high volume. Plated bullets are available from Berry's (free ship over $50), Raineir(SP?), Xtreme, and others.
Good luck with your choices,
That much shooting, wow.. Not sure the whole reason, if just for fun I would switch to .22 rounds.
and, I want their ammo budget..
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For my auto pistol cartridges, my Dillon 650 uses a carbide sizing die, then the Dillon expander at the powder drop station, then the Dillon powder check system, then bullet seater, then Lee Factory Crimp die (there are others that do the same thing) as the last step. This ensures that the bullet has a firm taper crimp applied, and that the cartridge is correctly dimensioned to fit in a case guage or chamber. There are many steps during the loading process that deform the brass for specific reasons. The Lee at the last step ensure nothing is non-standard. It just works, and in high volume, that is what you want.
I don't find it a pain, in fact, I enjoy the process and the ability to tailor my handgun loads. It may not save you a bunch of $$ since you'll probably end up shooting more, though! That said, it isn't for everybody. Get with your buds and spend time with them when they reload; that will give you some idea whether it is something you want to get into.
Chose a weapon that goes bang EVERY time!