This is a discussion on Going To Start Reloading ... within the Reloading forums, part of the Defensive Ammunition & Ballistics category; I use Berry's for my 9mm. Haven't had any issues and I buy direct from Berry's, they are cheaper then going through Cabelas....
I use Berry's for my 9mm. Haven't had any issues and I buy direct from Berry's, they are cheaper then going through Cabelas.
I use HS-6 powder which calls for a max of 6.8 grns for FMJ, they recommend starting at 10% less and working up. I've been loading to about 6.4 - 6.6 and have been very happy. People I have spoken to say to load them as fmj's. Not sure where in PA you are, in Trenton there is a harbor freight store, I got a digital caliper at a decent price there.
Ordered 250, .45 230 grain round nose from Berrys last night, and also order a Wilson Max Case Gage as recommended too. Now I gotta wait for everything to get here so I can get set up, and I still need to go to the local store and pick up some brass and powder!
Had a Cabelas box on the front porch when I got home, I got my dies, power measure stand, electronic scale, calipers, bullet puller, powder measure baffle and shell holder ... Just not my RCBS kit. Hopefully it will be here tomorrow!
I assume all of you are experienced in reloading but I would just mention that in some (or many manuals), particularly with semis, reloaded ammunition may void your firearm warranties and any consequential damages caused by a malfunction or an explosion of the firearm.Latest news on this front concerns the FN5.7x28. Go to FN57 or FiveSeven forum and you can read about it. Reloaded ammunition on a 5.7 explicitly voids the warranty and consequentials.
I think you will find reloading voids most manufactures warranties. It's a liability thing.
Well I recieved the rest of my gear today. I got my press mounted, powder measure and stand mounted, priming tool set up, and my 505 scale zeroed!! I still need to sit down and read though my loading manuals, and go pick up my components.
Cool beans... just take it slow. For example, when you're setting up your seating/crimping die, there's no sense using a freshly primed cartridge. Decap and size one, bell the mouth, then start experimenting with your seating depth. When you think you have it set right, do 3 more cases to ensure the setting is repeatable.
Likewise, when you start throwing powder and you think you have your measure set right, throw and weigh at least 3 more charges. They should be within a tenth of a grain of each other.
And... when you think you've got the powder and bullet seating squared away, go ahead and load a few rounds, but check each one with the Wildon gage and with your calipers (OAL). The gage told me I had irregular crimps at first... that's when I got a Lee factory crimp die and haven't had that problem since.
Sounds like you're going to use plated or jacketed bullets so this may not apply to you, but I've noticed that with cast round-nose bullets, small casting irregularities result in uneven OAL. At first I thought that the moly coating might be building up inside the seating die, but it turns out that the variations in the bullet nose means the seating 'insert' registers at slightly different heights on the bullet. OAL varies as much as 0.025". This is almost non-existent with the cast SWC bullets I prefer, with OAL variations around 0.005". Not a big deal, especially with the .45 ACP round, but for my own satisfaction I like the rounds to be as uniform as possible.
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I've been watching a ton of YouTube videos over the past week or so, and most of them on setting up dies are using LEE dies, and I bought RCBS dies, not sure if there's a huge difference in setting them up.
Also, someone told me when I set my bullet seating and crimping die to place a factory loaded (new and unfired) into the shell holder, and adjust the die/crimp until they just touch, and that should put me very close. Not sure how true that statement actually is though.
FWIW, I plan to make quite a few "dummy rounds" to get a hang of everything.
Just a quick update ... I have reloaded 300 .45's so far, and I love every second of it! Ive been loading 230 gr Berrys Plated RN with 5.8 gr of Unique behind it my 1911 loves it, cycles flawless, and very easy shooting.
I just ordered 500 .45 cases and 500 .38 special cases. I just need to pick up my .38 special stuff now!
I purchased the Cobalt brand caliper from Lowe's for $29.00 and it has a lifetime guarantee.
The basics of what you will need to load pistol rounds:
case lube (yes, even if you use carbide dies. especially 9mm and very clean brass, lube like 1 out of every 10)
bullet puller is great to have
Calipers for measuring Oal
That will get you loading a finished round. You dont really need a case trimmer for pistol brass. Pistol brass will wear out before it needs trimmed. The Lee Classic Turret press is the best non-progressive set-up for pistols. With the auto index, you can crank out 150-200 rounds an hour. That being said, its best to learn on a single stage. I started with the turret and realized I was missing out on a lot of the hobby of reloading and wasn't learning the fundamentals well. I picked up a Lee Classic Cast to use in tandem and am very happy. I personally decided against the Breech lock because you can't use it without the bushing and you miss out on learning to adjust dies. With the Lee Classic Cast, you can always installed the Hornady lock n load kit for like $15 down the road.