Originally Posted by
gasmitty
I just started reloading less than 2 years ago, so the memories of getting started are pretty fresh.
I deliberated long and hard about single stage vs progressive; I chose progressive but I'd still flip a coin today if I was starting over. You won't regret a single stage, and in fact I know there's one in my future for running up small batches (say, under 100 rounds of a given load).
Realistically, any of the 'name' presses will serve you well, but among my reloading friends the RCBS "rock chucker" seems to be the most popular, and conversely, the Lee presses the least. I don't think there's a notable difference between cast iron (probably cast steel, actually) and aluminum presses; you don't care about the weight difference if it's mounted to a bench, and any modern aluminum press is going to be strong enough by design.
I think people do get pretty picky about dies, and with reason. I've got Lee, Hornady and RCBS. The Lee dies have a relatively short threaded shank so they may not have the full range of adjustment on non-Lee presses. My handgun caliber dies are Hornady and my rifle cal dies are RCBS. If you're loading for rifles other than bolt actions, you want the "small base" dies which resize the case almost all the way down to the rim. Lever guns, pumps and autoloaders don't have the camming action that a bolt gun does, so you'll end up with stuck cases if you use a standard die.
You'll probably never need to trim handgun cartridge cases other than magnums, but rifle cases, you will. I got the Forster "original" trimmer kit and mounted it on a 1x4 board that clamp to the bench when I need it. You'll also need a case mouth chamfering and deburring tool; there are a few combination tools on the market that have the ID chamfer on one end and the OD de-burr on the other, about 15 bucks... that's all you'll need. A primer pocket brush is handy; probably won't need it for pistol cases but you will for rifle, and you'll need two - one for large primer pockets and one for small.
I got a Hornady powder measure with my Lock'n'Load progressive press, it came with powder drums for rifle (large volume) and pistol (small volume), and it works well for me. I can't offer advice on others, but maybe read the customer comments on the Midway site for the different brands of measures.
One of the other tools you will invariably need is a bullet puller! I got a Lyman simply because that was the one available.
For scales, I'd skip the electronic ones in favor of a beam balance. The digital ones are sensitive to drafts and almost all of the "affordable" ones (like under $200) tend to drift when left on for a couple of hours. I'm happy with my RCBS 5-0-5, but understand that you need to re-level/re-zero any scale whenever it's moved (takes just seconds). Get some calibration/check weights around the lightest charge weight you'll need (say 5-10 grains) and the heaviest (maybe 50 grains?) and maybe one in between. If you have access to a precision industrial scale, you could make your own check weights with stainless steel wire or washers; just set them aside and keep 'em clean.
One other measurement tool you definitely need is a dial caliper. Don't go too cheap here (like skip the Harbor Fright specials... the gears are soft steel and don't wear well); Brown & Sharpe and Starrett are nice, but really pricey these days. I'd look in the McMaster-Carr catalog and see if you can find a Mitutoyo or similar for $50 or so. And a loaded case gage to check your finished cartridges is a big help, especially for autoloader cartridges and especially when you're dialing in that crimp.
I think that covers my "beginner notes" on equipment. For manuals, I got the Lee, Lyman and Hornady books and I've found them all useful. Invariably, the load you want either won't be listed with the bullet or powder you're using, OR - more likely - the overall length for the listed load will be different than what you need. This is where cross-checking the recipes between cookbooks is helpful, and even so, cautious and common-sense extrapolation will still probably be required.
About powders... lots of debate. Everyone has their favorites they swear by. I got lucky at the start and chose Titegroup for my .45 ACP and .38. It's pretty economical and burns clean, and it'll work for 9mm and .40 if I start loading for them, too. I think 231 is equally versatile. Rifle powders seem a lot more specialized; so far, I'm only reloading for a Garand so IMR 4895 was a pretty easy choice (with tons of reference literature to guide me).
Lastly, I'd recommend starting out loading for .45. Reasons? It's a low-pressure round, so even if you screw up and throw a double charge, it's unlikely to damage the gun or you (squib loads are sneakier and more dangerous, I think). The case is short and fat and it's easy to look inside and see the powder charge. The bullet is likewise fat and easy to handle, as in seating it in the case.
So... all this is worth exactly what you're paying for it, but I hope it helps!
