reloading 40 caliber

This is a discussion on reloading 40 caliber within the Reloading forums, part of the Defensive Ammunition & Ballistics category; i am new to reloading and i usually shoot federal 155 grain jhp's and would like to reload a targe round that will have similar ...

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Thread: reloading 40 caliber

  1. #1
    Member Array halfcrazy's Avatar
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    reloading 40 caliber

    i am new to reloading and i usually shoot federal 155 grain jhp's and would like to reload a targe round that will have similar characteristics to the federal ammo any suggestions?

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  3. #2
    Distinguished Member Array Reborn's Avatar
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    be careful

    Be really careful reloader the 40 caliber. I had a brand new model 27 Glock and blew it apart during the first 50 rounds with reloaded ammo. I did the reload myself and have been reloading for many years. I happened to attend a Shot Show right after that incident. I learned that every brass maker doesn't intend for you or I to reload. I was using Accuracte Arms powder at the time. The specs that were used in there book was remove because reloading the 40 is dangerous. Because the shell on a semi-auto is unsupported at the back the end of the casing will blow off causing the pressure to run backward thru the gun. Ouch
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  4. #3
    Member Array halfcrazy's Avatar
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    so are you saying don't reload 40 cal? i was under the impression if i stayed with the minimum loads out of a book like the 48th issue of lymans i would be fine? might really suck as i just came out of pocket for better then a grand getting set up to do this . i am terribly confused now my gunshop and gunsmith both reload and swear by it. and helped me get into it?

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    I don't think Reborn is suggesting you not reload...he is saying just be careful.

    He used a Glock .40 which probably is the gun/ammo combo that suffers the most in the way of damage when reloads fail. One reason is due to the reported lack of adequate chamber support in most if not all Glocks.

    Glocks' bores are not lead bullet-friendly either...no regular lands and grooves.

    Not all brass is created alike either. Some can stand to be reloaded a number of times; others, not so. If you fire a round out of a Glock, be prepared to need to invest in dies that resize down to base of the case...like Lee dies. Some dies leave a minute area above the extraction groove "un-sized."

    Take care in following major manufactures loading data; use their starting load by reducing by 10% of the powder charge and work your way up.

    If you are shooting a Glock and want to use reloads, invest in a quality aftermarket barrel like one from Bar Sto, Jarvis, or Lone Wolf. I have a Bar Sto Match barrel in my Glock 20 10mm. I can now shoot lead reloads (that I make) to my heart's content.
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    Member Array halfcrazy's Avatar
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    thanks for the reasuring reply lymans has a starting amount and a max amount of powder so i should start with there starting load. and i am shooting smith and wesson m&p's but i have a heavy ruger p94 that i usually try things in first just seems smarter where it is a heavy gun.
    where else can one look for load data for example i have a box of berrys bullets double struck plated flat point 180 grain bullets and havent seen any data in lymans that correlates to this bullet?

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    Senior Member Array Super Trucker's Avatar
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    Because the shell on a semi-auto is unsupported at the back the end of the casing will blow off causing the pressure to run backward thru the gun.
    Not all semi autos are unsupported though.

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    Member Array halfcrazy's Avatar
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    well i am glad i learned this about glocks as i have a buddy that was going to reload for his glock but i will pass this on and let him know he needs a barrell or a new gun "we all like an excuse for a new gun right?"

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    VIP Member Array cdwolf's Avatar
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    Who needs an excuse to replace a glock jk I was wondering about getting into reloading myself, mainly .40. Now slightly concerned
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    I reload .40 for Glock and HK pistols. As long as you are careful and inspect the brass I think you should be safe. Unfortunately it is easy to double charge a case if not careful. Be sure you are never double charging the load and watch your specs for COL. Also pay attention to what casings you are using. Some cases have a thicker web near the base than others. Keep track of how many times you have reloaded the cases and inspect them closely.
    Typically I load 10% less than what the load table specifies , just making sure the gun will reliably cycle.
    Changing the barrel on the Glock is only if you are loading using lead bullets without a jacket. This is because the Glock barrel bore is Polygonal rifled(same as HK pistols). Lead build up can cause too much pressure.
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    You shouldn't be.....just be careful, careful look at your brass and chuck any that are cracked, tarnished, or look beat up.

    Carefully calibrate your scale and confirm the measurement of your powder loads with the scale.

    Ensure powder is being dropped into your empty cartridge cases and that the amounts are consistent between cases.

    Load the rounds to a consistent overall length...in other words, measure your loaded rounds.

    And for Pete's sake....if you use someone else's load data, start the load development at your end a tad lighter...recommended is 10% less.
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    VIP Member Array Tubby45's Avatar
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    You don't need an aftermarket barrel to handload for a Glock. It does give piece of mind and a tighter chamber to increase case life. Storm Lake barrels run $100 or so.

    I use a KKM Precision ($175) in my G30 but because I also shoot 45 Super in it. I also shoot the hell out of it.

    Use caution with any handloadng. Start at the starting charge and work up slowly to max. 80% of shooters handload to the lower end of the charge range. I only use two near max loads and I load for 10 metallic cartridges.

    For plated data, use lead data verbatim or back off jacketed 10% and work up. Using a Lyman manual, use the 175gr or 180gr lead data and you'll be fine.

    The older Glock 40 calibers had grossly unsupported chamber (no chamber is 100% fully supported). The newer Glocks have more.
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    Member Array halfcrazy's Avatar
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    thanks guys i will go 10% lower then starting recomendations. really they are all target loads so as long as the gun cycles i will be happy. the dillon 550b seems pretty accurate as far as powder charge and oal of the bullet.

  14. #13
    Distinguished Member Array Reborn's Avatar
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    reloading

    Quote Originally Posted by halfcrazy View Post
    so are you saying don't reload 40 cal? i was under the impression if i stayed with the minimum loads out of a book like the 48th issue of lymans i would be fine? might really suck as i just came out of pocket for better then a grand getting set up to do this . i am terribly confused now my gunshop and gunsmith both reload and swear by it. and helped me get into it?
    I would never tell you not to reload. Just be careful. Do a lot of research. I still have my Dillon press. You will see the bulge of the brass develop right at the bottom.
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    I have the 550b also and reload 40 S&W. I shoot a xd 40 and have had problems with the bulged brass. Many of my friends suggested that I get the EGW under sizing die. It will go down farther on the case to completely resize the case to specs.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ghawk249 View Post
    I have the 550b also and reload 40 S&W. I shoot a xd 40 and have had problems with the bulged brass. Many of my friends suggested that I get the EGW under sizing die. It will go down farther on the case to completely resize the case to specs.
    EGW! That's the maker I was thinking about....I knew there was another full-length die maker yesterday when I mentioned Lee, but I forgot who it was....thanks ghawk!
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