Barrel Leading

This is a discussion on Barrel Leading within the Reloading forums, part of the Defensive Ammunition & Ballistics category; I'm new to reloading for pistol. I've loaded and shot about 3,000 rounds over the last couple of months and the load I have sort ...

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Thread: Barrel Leading

  1. #1
    Member Array ks1911's Avatar
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    Barrel Leading

    I'm new to reloading for pistol. I've loaded and shot about 3,000 rounds over the last couple of months and the load I have sort of settled on, seems to excessively lead my gun barrel. Gun function, ejection, feeding, and recoil with this load is sweet. The leading has not resulted in diminished accuracy (at least that I can tell, given my consistently crappy marksmanship) so much as its almost impossible to get the barrel perfectly clean. I do not have a chronograph and at this point have not chrono'd this load. I'd appreciate any suggestions. BTW its 45 ACP.


    Load:
    Powder: 4 gr Clays
    Bullet: 185 gr LSWC, Brinell 18, .452 diameter
    Primer: Win
    Case: Mostly RP

    Pistol:
    Ed Brown 5" Special Forces
    Last edited by ks1911; March 18th, 2008 at 10:18 PM. Reason: correction

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  3. #2
    Member Array alfack's Avatar
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    The only thing I can think of is try a jacketed bullet or maybe a .451 diameter, though I don't think 1/1000 is going to make that much difference. Are those bullets lubed? Maybe what you are experiencing is a build up of lube in the barrel?

  4. #3
    VIP Member Array Tubby45's Avatar
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    Bullet diameter could be wrong. Did you slug your bore?

    Bullet hardness is too hard and isn't sealing the bore. Switch to softer alloy. Multiply BHN number by 1422. That is the chamber pressure needed to seal the bore. Doing so is a hair under 26000. No way a 45 is going to reach that pressure safely.

    Leading is: Deposits of bullet alloy that have been smeared into the surface of the gun's bore. In extreme cases,
    07/02 FFL/SOT since 2006

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    Agree with Tubby - odd as it may seem low velocity bullets are better softer - keep the high hardness stuff for fast rounds . 357, 44 mag - and those are best gas checked.

    Get a Lewis lead remover, or equivalent - drawing a bronze gauze thru the barrel does a great job of removing lead build up.
    Chris - P95
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    Suggestion. Try J-B Bore Bright as a final cleaner for your barrel and then finish with a patch very slightly damp with BreakFree - FP-10 or WeaponShield.
    J-B Bore Bright is available from Brownell's.
    Some barrels will just always Lead Up and foul heavily until they get micro-polished.

    The Final Finish For Your Barrel, Improves Accuracy, Reduces Cleaning Effort
    A micro-fine bore cleaning and finishing compound that works as both a cleaner and a final polish to help keep barrels free of fouling and shooting their absolute best.
    Regular use gives your barrel a mirror-like finish that helps prevent the build-up of accuracy robbing copper fouling, plus greatly reduces cleaning effort.
    Clean your barrel as you normally would, then after cleaning with J-B Compound, follow with J-B Bore Bright to achieve a super clean, final polish.
    At the range, regular use of J-B Bore Bright between strings of fire minimizes the accumulation of jacket fouling to help maintain consistent accuracy.
    As a bore cleaner, the soft, oil-paste formula liquefies as you use it to quickly remove fouling, copper, lead, and powder residue in rifles and handguns, plus plastic deposits in shotgun bores.
    Because J-B Bore Bright is absolutely non-embedding it wipes easily from the barrel with a dry patch.
    You never need to worry about Bore Bright harming your barrel.
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  7. #6
    Member Array ks1911's Avatar
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    Thanks for the suggestions. Missouri Bullet Co also offers the 185 gr LWSC with a BHN of 12, going to give those a rip.

  8. #7
    VIP Member Array edr9x23super's Avatar
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    I used to have those problems years ago, then I discovered the easy way to remove lead and copper fouling. I cannot tell you how many products I tried by Lewis, outers, etc. Then one lucky day a buddy owed me money, and instead of paying me, he gave me this gadget he bought called a foul-out II by Outers.

    That turned out to be the best darn bore cleaner I have ever used, period. I use it once every 10 cleanings or so because of the price of the chemicals, but it is awesome. it uses an electrochemical process similar to the plating process, except in reverse to remove fouling in your bore. it runs on 4aa batteries, but mine came with an AC adapter, and you just basically run the metal rod into your bore, fill it with chemicals, and walk away for a couple of hours. when you come back, you just clean the fouling off of the metal rod.

    And your bore is absolutely sparkling clean....After that I coat a patch with flitz and polish the bore.

    MidwayUSA - Outers Foul Out 3 Bore Cleaning System

    There is the link to the latest model. It may seem pricey, but this thing turns your bore cleaning into a verrryy easy affair...
    "Guard with jealous attention the public liberty. Suspect everyone who approaches that jewel. Unfortunately, nothing will preserve it but downright force. Whenever you give up that force, you are inevitably ruined". - Patrick Henry

  9. #8
    VIP Member Array Sheldon J's Avatar
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    Yeah I have been wanting one of those for a long time but am too cheap to buy one.
    "The sword dose not cause the murder, and the maker of the sword dose not bear sin" Rabbi Solomon ben Isaac 11th century

  10. #9
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    KS1911,

    You didn't say in your post whether or not you use the Lee Factory Crimp Die, but I'll mention this just in case you do.

    The FCD is very handy for correcting out of spec rounds, and I am not bashing it at all, but when you use the FCD on lead rounds, it will deform the lead bullet enough to allow the hot gasses to "blow by" the bullet, cutting the sides of the bullet and depositing this lead in your barrel.

    I have been using the same load as you (4gr Clays) with a 200gr LSWC, not sure of the BHN (local caster), but I get very little leading. But I do get "some". To remove it, depending on how many rounds I 've shot, I'll use some bronze wool wrapped around an old brush, or if not much lead, I'll put two patches on a 45 cal. jag to make it real tight in the barrel and this will shove the lead out. There is also a Lee cloth lead remover product that you cut up into patch size pieces and place on the jag. The Lee product works well, but I mostly use patches.

    Hope this helps,

    Jim
    "There is no problem that cannot be solved through the proper use of high explosives"
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  11. #10
    VIP Member Array Tubby45's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jbailey View Post
    but when you use the FCD on lead rounds, it will deform the lead bullet enough to allow the hot gasses to "blow by" the bullet, cutting the sides of the bullet and depositing this lead in your barrel.
    Not all of them. Depends on the opening measurement at the sizing ring. None of my FCDs will swage down lead.
    07/02 FFL/SOT since 2006

  12. #11
    Member Array longo244's Avatar
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    I shoot 230 LRN bullets under 3.4 grains of Clays (45 Auto) and I experience minimal leading. One thing I do is after I'm done shooting is run 5-10 jacketed bullets down the barrel. This cleans out some of the lead fouling and makes cleaning a breeze.

  13. #12
    VIP Member Array Tubby45's Avatar
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    Not a good idea to do that. You might get away with it for a while, but you could have catastrophic pressure spikes. Read the link in my post #3.
    07/02 FFL/SOT since 2006

  14. #13
    VIP Member Array dukalmighty's Avatar
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    I shoot a lot of lead,I cast my own from wheel weights and use hard lube in a heated star lubrisizer,I get minimal leading,in 45 i shoot either 200 or 230 grn RN behind 5.0 grns unique,Win primer,and whatever brass i got from the range

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