How do you keep similar calibers apart?
This is a discussion on How do you keep similar calibers apart? within the Reloading forums, part of the Defensive Ammunition & Ballistics category; I am building an AR in .204 Ruger and will reload shells for it as well as .223 for a different AR. I will be ...
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January 10th, 2009 10:14 PM
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How do you keep similar calibers apart?
I am building an AR in .204 Ruger and will reload shells for it as well as .223 for a different AR. I will be taking them for prairie dogs this summer and am worried about dropping a .204 in the .223 and vise versa. Any suggestions about marking etc? I haven't come across nickel cases in either .223 or .204. I wonder what could easily mark the case and not allow for mixups. Any help would be appreciated.
Any tips for loading .204 Ruger would also be appreciated.
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January 10th, 2009 10:14 PM
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January 10th, 2009 11:08 PM
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Separate containers of different color , or a large bright color code for your reloaded ammo is always a good idea.
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January 11th, 2009 10:54 AM
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Yep, use different color containers for your ammo. My magnums are blue, my 45 are brown, and some others are red.
Once you build a box put a label on the top of it with the grain, type of powder and the powder charge. It is much easier to remember which ones shoot good or not when it is right there in front of you.
Just remember that shot placement is much more important with what you carry than how big a bang you get with each trigger pull.
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January 11th, 2009 03:36 PM
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I keep my ammo separated in different military ammo cans that are boldly marked on top.
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January 11th, 2009 05:09 PM
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I've seen several shooters at CAS matches mark the headstamp area of their cases with a colored magic marker either to make sure that they only get their own brass back or to mark "hot" loads for the plate racks.
Hoss
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January 11th, 2009 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by
cvhoss
I've seen several shooters at CAS matches mark the headstamp area of their cases with a colored magic marker either to make sure that they only get their own brass back or to mark "hot" loads for the plate racks.
Hoss
Does the marker burn off after being fired? Is it just a colored sharpie or is it nail polish? I was wondering the tolerance of either one to being fired.
BTW I like the idea of using color to separate different shooters brass, thanks!
"The millions of people, armed in the holy cause of liberty, and in such a country as that which we possess, are invincible by any force which our enemy can send against us." Patrick Henry 1775
Vegetarian: Indian for inept hunter.
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January 11th, 2009 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by
Ghuqu2
Does the marker burn off after being fired? Is it just a colored sharpie or is it nail polish? I was wondering the tolerance of either one to being fired.
BTW I like the idea of using color to separate different shooters brass, thanks!

They use a sharpie and you can wipe it off afterwards
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January 12th, 2009 08:00 AM
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I use the Magic Marker method. It works well for me. Also, I code the loadings with a different color. Example: .45ACP with 185gr HP and 8.3 gr Unique= Black casehead/Red tip on bullet. .45ACP with 185HP and 5gr Promo=Black casehead/Blue tip on bullet.
Hey! It works for me.
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January 12th, 2009 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by
Ghuqu2
Does the marker burn off after being fired? Is it just a colored sharpie or is it nail polish? I was wondering the tolerance of either one to being fired.
BTW I like the idea of using color to separate different shooters brass, thanks!

No, it doesn't burn off from firing. A lot of BP shooters use this method to mark their brass. BP burns much hotter than smokeless and doesn't burn it off the brass. While I haven't used the markers to mark for caliber, I have on occasion used the markers to mark for bullet weight and it will eventually come off as you tumble your brass but should remain just fine up to that point.
Hoss
Sig 239 SAS 40 S&W / Sig 239 9mm / Kahr PM-9 / Walther PPS .40 / Sig P-245 / Ruger LCP
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