New To Reloading - Lee Die Question

This is a discussion on New To Reloading - Lee Die Question within the Reloading forums, part of the Defensive Ammunition & Ballistics category; Hello, I had a Lyman press sitting around for about a year, and finally remembered to buy dies for it. The dies I got are ...

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Thread: New To Reloading - Lee Die Question

  1. #1
    Senior Member Array Joshua M. Smith's Avatar
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    New To Reloading - Lee Die Question

    Hello,

    I had a Lyman press sitting around for about a year, and finally remembered to buy dies for it.

    The dies I got are Lee .45acp. There are four dies, but the instructions only cover three.

    I have the first three (decapping, flaring, seating) set up to specifications.

    The fourth I cannot find much about. From what I can find on the Web, it's "factory crimp die" or something of the sort.

    Nobody seems to agree as to whether it's needed on the .45acp.

    I am not reloading for anything except practice ammo.

    Do I need this fourth die? If not, I'll put it back up. If I do, does anyone have instructions on how to set it up?

    Thank you,

    Josh <><

    P.S. I have manuals on order, and will not go past the depriming process until I have them in hand and have read them. In fact, I am intentionally holding off on powder so that I'm not tempted to do this! No worries there. Thanks. J.S.

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  3. #2
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    http://www.leeprecision.com/html/Hel...justment-1.wmv

    I crimp all my reloads if it is any help.
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    Senior Member Array coffeecup's Avatar
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    It is probably a factory crimp die. There should be instructions included with the die set. While the 3 die set will cetainly load decent ammo, you would be well advised to go ahead and make the extra effort and use the factory crimp die also.

  5. #4
    Senior Member Array Joshua M. Smith's Avatar
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    Thanks folks.

    No setup instructions with the set, but I got 'em elsewhere.

    I appreciate it.

    Josh <><

  6. #5
    VIP Member Array dukalmighty's Avatar
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    I don't use the factory crimp with my 45,didn't come with one and my loads come out perfect,if you do use it when your reloader is at the top of the stroke with a loaded case in position after seating a bullet turn the die down til it stops, then lower the press and turn die another 1/2 turn that should be about right
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  7. #6
    Distinguished Member Array JerryM's Avatar
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    I have bought and use the factory crimp die on both my .45 and .9mm. Especially with lead bullet rounds it eliminates malfunctions due to slightly oversize rounds. If the loaded round will go into either a max cartridge gage or min chamber gage, you are OK.

    Before I used it I had malfunctions that were a result of slightly out of tolerance size rounds. I would not be without it.


    Regards,
    Jerry

  8. #7
    VIP Member Array Sticks's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dukalmighty View Post
    ...after seating a bullet turn the die down til it stops, then lower the press and turn die another 1/2 turn that should be about right
    About that.

    I had problems with that procedure on my .44 rounds with 240gr plated bullets. 2-3 light taps on the base against a hard surface would cause significant setback, so I had to tighten the crimp some more, a lot more. This might be due to the softness of the plating vs. a jacketed round in the heavier bullets. Had a bit of the same with the 180gr .40 cal but it only took maybe another 1/4 turn. With the increased crimp, I had to adjust the seating depth a little deeper because the tight crimp would increase the OAL.

    Just something to think about.
    Sticks

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    VIP Member Array cvhoss's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sticks View Post
    About that.

    I had problems with that procedure on my .44 rounds with 240gr plated bullets. 2-3 light taps on the base against a hard surface would cause significant setback, so I had to tighten the crimp some more, a lot more. This might be due to the softness of the plating vs. a jacketed round in the heavier bullets...............
    On your 44 rounds, I'm assuming these are 44 special/44 mag rounds for a revolver. For plated bullets, you may have better luck using a taper crimp die such as this Lyman die. I know that Berry specifically warns against using a heavy roll crimp on their bullets:
    Is separation a problem with Plated Bullets?
    Separation is very rare. Two things can cause a jacket to separate from the lead core: excessive speeds (magnum velocities) and a real tight roll crimp (cuts through the plating). If you'll keep these two items in check you shouldn't have a problem with bullet separation.
    Since the taper crimp compresses more of the length of the case and not just the case mouth, you should be able to get a solid crimp without damaging the plating on the bullet.

    Hoss
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  10. #9
    Senior Member Array tankdriver's Avatar
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    One of the big things The Lee FC die does it will post size your final round taking it back to SAAMI specs, this can be good or bad depending. Good if you have a tight chamber, bad if you intentionally want slightly oversized rounds to match a larger throat. It also will be sure to fit any chamber in anybody weapon.

    I use mine, as when I go shooting, I furnish ammo to my buddies, and want to be sure it will fit their gun. But I have also in the past 30 years loaded thousands of rounds with out it with no problems, So it is kinda your call.
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  11. #10
    VIP Member Array dukalmighty's Avatar
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    One problem I've found with the FC die is on rifle brass you need to make sure all your brass is sized the same length,if you adjust it and end up getting a little longer case than the one it's adjusted for it will crush the case down causing a bulge,same thing as if you tighten it to much when setting it up.If you resize pistol cases but after loading them they won't feed in the chamber It's probably because you have your die set to deep causing the case to bulge out a little,back the die out until it holds the bullet securely and your case will slide in and out of the pistol chamber smoothly
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  12. #11
    VIP Member Array Sticks's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cvhoss View Post
    On your 44 rounds, I'm assuming these are 44 special/44 mag rounds for a revolver. For plated bullets, you may have better luck using a taper crimp die such as this Lyman die. I know that Berry specifically warns against using a heavy roll crimp on their bullets:
    Is separation a problem with Plated Bullets?
    Separation is very rare. Two things can cause a jacket to separate from the lead core: excessive speeds (magnum velocities) and a real tight roll crimp (cuts through the plating). If you'll keep these two items in check you shouldn't have a problem with bullet separation.
    Since the taper crimp compresses more of the length of the case and not just the case mouth, you should be able to get a solid crimp without damaging the plating on the bullet.

    Hoss
    The .44 is fired out of my Desert Eagle. I have the loads just hot enough to cycle the slide (mid point on the Accurate Powder recipe).

    I may look into the taper die for the next batch.
    Sticks

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    See also Sheep

  13. #12
    Member Array Jay6's Avatar
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    I always crimp my ammo but that is mainly because they are used for competition. If I do not crimp them about half will not fit in a case gauge and are likely to give me troubles in an after market barrel. I would say do it since it does not take much time and there is nothing more frustrating than getting to the range and having half your ammo not go into battery due to case size.

  14. #13
    Senior Member Array Joshua M. Smith's Avatar
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    Thanks, all :)

    Josh <><

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