dumb noobie ?

ok, so im still waiting for my equipment, and manual to come from midway, and i have been doing as much research online as i can, but i have a really dumb ?........what size primer for what round? ......i was looking at primers, and am completely new to reloading, and was wondering what rounds for small pistol, and what rounds for large pistol?, i will be starting out loading .45 acp, but will be branching out from there .....all the load data ive seen doesnt specify........i know this is pretty dumb, so poke me , but i figured you guys were the best to ask, i have already gathered a lot of info from this sub forum........thanx for the response, and if ive missed something in my forum search, just point me in the right direction

45 ACP uses Large pistol primers. Unless it is a a 45 ACP case marked "NT" then it will use small pistol primers.

Generally speaking:

40 S&W and smaller use Small pistol primers.
Pistol calibers larger then . 40 S&W use Large pistol primers.

The two exceptions that come to mind are:
#1 .45 ACP cases headstamped NT
#2 45 GAP cases

Both of which use small pistol primers

Asking questions is not so dumb. Reloading without asking lots of questions, now that might be dumb. ;)

I started reloading before the Internet was available to the public. I have not looked for a long time, but I recall that folks like Speer, Nosler, Winchester, AA and the other powder companies, all had free data for the asking. Start slow and easy and have fun. I really enjoy low powered wad cutters in a 1911.

apreciate the info guys, ill have to watch for that headstamp, i just orderd the abc's of reloading 8th? edition from amazon, should be here wed. lots of reading to do:smile:

You got a good book. Also get reloading manuals and a notebook to keep track of your loads.

The ramp up time to becoming a reasonably accomplished loader is slow, sometimes rewarding, very often frustrating (very very frustrating) and well worth it (somehow). If you can find a seasoned reloader that you feel comfortable with, put him on your speed dial. You will have a ton of questions as time passes. I'm still in growth mode and not ashamed to say it. From time to time you'll get irratated with the process.....walk away. Have a beer. Go back to it tomorrow. Keep that notebook going, track the simplest things that you do in the process because you will forget. Take your time always and use those scales and calipers regularly. Long gun I check every aspect of every round. Handgun I check every 3rd round once I have production under way. I'm using the Hornady 2 volume set as my primary reference and very satisfied. Good luck. Oh yeah, if you're not sure of a round that you've cranked out, absolutely don't fire it.

Asking questions is the smartest thing you can do! Well, assuming you like having all your fingers that is.:wink:
I have been handloading for pistols for twenty years now, and just really got serious on rifle. Take your time. If you have to interpret something in a manual, DON'T!! It should all be perfectly clear. If it is not, don't try to figure it out on your own. Get hold of tech support!
Remember, each load they show in the manual is for those specific components only! Any variation can cause differences in chamber pressure. For the most part they will be minor, but that is why you start with a softball load and work your way up.

Once you get some experience under your belt you can start experimenting a bit, but always remember, safety is the first priority!:smile:

No dumb questions when it comes to reloading. I am new to pistol/rifle reloading, but have been reloading shotshell for several years, and many of the principles are the same. That said, I still ask a lot of questions to friends that have been reloading for decades.

I have been reloading over 35 years and I still ask questions!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Miggy

You got a good book. Also get reloading manuals and a notebook to keep track of your loads.

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+1 on keeping track of your loads, even if you don't change your loads.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by pgrass101

+1 on keeping track of your loads, even if you don't change your loads.

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++ and I use a sharpie to mark brass with a unique code per batch.

great info, i really apreciate it........one more dumb question, on the diffrent components from what the load data calls for, does it matter the brand of bullet, or just the type, i noticed on the hodgdon load data on the web, the only 230 fmj load the use is a hornady flat point, will this data work with say a magtech 230 fmj round ball? just wanna make sure thanx again for yall bein so nice, i dont know anybody that reloads, so you guys are my "experts that are on speed-dial":wink: thanx again

Unless I am looking at 100% lead projectiles, which I tend to load light for target practice anyway, I never consider different brands components to be equal and approach their use gently. There are too many variables possible between two FMJ projectiles that appear the same. Variables like hardness, density, thickness of layers, etc., all contribute to how much pressure it takes to throw a round down range. If this is a consideration in low power .45 loads, imagine a .357 Sig or 7mm Magnum rifle round.

May all your BOOMS be good ones.

There will be a difference between the 230 grain flat point and the 230 grain round nosed FMJ. The big question is how significant of a difference? Lets assume that the jackets are the same alloy and thickness. How long is the bearing surface on the side of the bullet that will engage the rifling? The more friction you have the higher the pressure needed to achieve the same velocity. This is why you always start on the low side and work your way up.
Could you load the two identically and see signs of too much pressure in one and not the other? I doubt it. Unless you were using +P+ loads. But, it is possible. Would the low end starting load for one be safe for the other? It should be.

Generally, you could find any 230 grain FMJRN, that is the same weight and diameter, and they would be close enough to start out with low to mid range charges.

The main difference between the flat nosed and round nosed will be the COL. COL will affect seating depth, which will affect pressures. I.e., you wouldn't want to load a FMJRN to the same COL as the flat nose.

What powder are you using? I could look up the min and max loads for 230 gr. FMJRN, if I knew what powder, but it is really not a good idea to trust any data that is not confirmed by your own eyes. A person with good intent might accidentally read the wrong line in the book etc..