Why bother removing Military Crimp from brass?

Why bother removing Military Crimp from brass?

This is a discussion on Why bother removing Military Crimp from brass? within the Reloading forums, part of the Defensive Ammunition & Ballistics category; Somehow, a crimped .223 brass got in with my non-crimped pile. It was in my hand so I tried to set a primer in and ...

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Thread: Why bother removing Military Crimp from brass?

  1. #1
    VIP Member Array Cupcake's Avatar
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    Why bother removing Military Crimp from brass?

    Somehow, a crimped .223 brass got in with my non-crimped pile. It was in my hand so I tried to set a primer in and it popped right in, with just a little more force than usual. The brass is stamped WCC 05 and has the round crimp. Now I'm wondering if my whole pile of that brass will prime OK without swaging. Was it a fluke that it worked? Or is something terrible going to happen? Should I forward those deleted chain emails to get the good luck I was promised?
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  2. #2
    VIP Member Array mcp1810's Avatar
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    Sometimes you get lucky! But everyone knows if you don't remove the crimp your dog will have bad breath and your hair will not be as shiny and full of body as someone does swage them all.

    I have been able to prime some surplus pistol brass without removing the crimp but I have probably crushed as many primers as I have seated.
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  3. #3
    VIP Member Array Cupcake's Avatar
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    The dog certainly has bad breath... well, I found another one and primed it too. (I let my kid sort the brass, you get what you pay for). I started wondering if somehow the crimp material might be harder than the brass and the primer might not seal as snugly or something. But if the only worry is crushed primers...perhap I'll experiment with 100 or so I have of these crimped ones. Maybe it helps that I'm using Federal primers which are softer than others.
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  4. #4
    VIP Member Array dukalmighty's Avatar
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    Sometimes you get lucky but chances are you will crush the primer which will ruin it ,It will also prevent the press from turning until you remove the case with the stuck primer.I have done this before,so anymore if I feel I have to exert more than normal pressure I stop and swage the case before continuing
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  5. #5
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    Sometimes when you pop the old primer out it will remove enough crimp to allow another to go in fairly easy.

    Not a good idea though. Some will go easy, others not so easy and some you will have to smash in there to get them in.

    They will not be consistent and the key to reloading good ammo is consistency. Also, it is entirely possible to detonate a primer because you are distorting it when trying to put it in over the crimp.

    Defiantly not a good idea.
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  6. #6
    VIP Member Array Cupcake's Avatar
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    Roger that. Thanks for the info.
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  7. #7
    VIP Member Array sgtD's Avatar
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    Not to hijack here, but, since this thread is up and the OPs question seems to have been answered, would someone explain to this newby reloader, exactly how the crimp is removed.

    I have about 125 .223 military cases, and some .308 and a few 30-06 that have the crimp ring. I have only reloaded commercial brass or mil brass that already had the crimp removed before I got it, and I don't really know what has to be done with the mil brass.

    I will hopefully need to know soon, if I can ever get some .223 dies.
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  8. #8
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    Here you go!!

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  9. #9
    VIP Member Array dukalmighty's Avatar
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    I have the Dillon swager,but Lee makes a tool that I chucked up in a drill and would ream the primer pocket after removing the spent primer,I have heard of people using a knife point and removing the crimp that way also
    "Outside of the killings, Washington has one of the lowest crime rates in the country,"
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  10. #10
    VIP Member Array sgtD's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info.
    When you've got 'em by the balls, their hearts & minds will follow. Semper Fi.

  11. #11
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    There are several ways to do it. I have used them all at one point or another.

    One way, and in my opinion the easiest way is to buy the Dillon decrimper and use it.

    Another way is to buy an RCBS crimp removing die. You put the case in the press and it uses a shell holder with a post on it to remove the crimp. It works, but it is tedious and slow.

    Another is to use a small countersink in a battery operated drill, grasp the case with one hand and use the drill to ream it out. It isn't very consistent, but it works and may be the cheapest way to do it.

    If you have a drill press, use a small countersink in the drill and either run the spindle down to the upside down case or move the case up to the countersink, either way works. Probably the quickest, but again, not the most consistent.
    I would rather stand against the cannons of the wicked than against the prayers of the righteous.


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  12. #12
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    Exclamation sometime things work as un-expected

    howdy , sometime things work as un-expected , I onnce was a alumium CCI .40 S&W go thru a Dillion machine and load , of coarse when we tried agin the case cracked and yes we fired it and it worked , rojo

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