Necked Cartridges(.357 Sig)?

Necked Cartridges(.357 Sig)?

This is a discussion on Necked Cartridges(.357 Sig)? within the Reloading forums, part of the Defensive Ammunition & Ballistics category; I'm new to reloading (haven't started yet, even, planning on picking up this soon) and had a few questions. First, is there anything additional required ...

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Thread: Necked Cartridges(.357 Sig)?

  1. #1
    Member Array Chyron's Avatar
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    Necked Cartridges(.357 Sig)?

    I'm new to reloading (haven't started yet, even, planning on picking up this soon) and had a few questions.
    First, is there anything additional required for reloading necked cartridges (.357 Sig) as opposed to straight-walled cartridges? Additional tools, additional steps in the reloading process?
    Second, is there anything additional required when using steel dies as opposed to carbide?
    Third, does anybody with Sig reloading experience recommend any specific powders? I've seen some recommendations for Accurate #9, but don't know enough to make a decision yet.


  2. #2
    VIP Member Array nedrgr21's Avatar
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    Steel vs. carbide - use case lube with steel. I like Hornady One Shot.

  3. #3
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    Bottlenecked cartridges require only two dies verses the three dies for straight walled cartridges. You only need to resize/deprime in the first step, then seat primer, drop powder then seat bullet with the second die. As far as loads here are some from the Hodgden website Cartridge Loads - Hodgdon Reloading Data Center - data.hodgdon.com just select Pistol, then 357SIG and hit Get Data button.

    This link will take you to all of their reloading data Hodgdon - The Gun Powder People
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  4. #4
    Senior Member Array Beans's Avatar
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    I found there is a LOT of opinions for reloading the .357 Sig. A friend of mine purchased a .357 Sig barrel for his .40 S&W Sig and ask me to help him reload some .357 Sig rounds.

    In my internet search I found that you must absolutely use the case mouth or the case shoulder for head spacing??????. Several posters suggested use H110 as a powder.

    I measured several cases for OAL including, once fired factory cases, range pickup brass and a couple different factory unfired case that I disassembled.

    I found the case lengths all over the place, sometimes as much as .05 different in length. None of them measured the Min case length as they were shorter.

    In the end we just went with OAL of the assembled cartridge and they work for him.

  5. #5
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    Reload .357 Sig like bottle-neck rifle cases, lube the cases before sizing. An extra step that many don't care to do, which is why a lot don't reload the .357 Sig. A case length trimmer will also be needed to ensure proper case length.
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  6. #6
    Member Array ROFL SQUAD's Avatar
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    x2 with the case lube! Lube the entire case, not just the inside/outside of the mouth. Trust me, trying to get a stuck case out of a die is no joke!

    J
    If you're going to carry one weapon, might as well carry two, because as the saying goes, "Two is one, and one is none."

    "Liberals can decline or whine, but I will still carry and conceal mine." - Cold Warrior. Excellent quote good sir!

  7. #7
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    No lube is required for pistol cartridges if you are using carbide dies.
    With steel dies it is a must.

    Accurate# 9 works very well for the .357 Sig which is what I use. It burns clean and meters well. I load mine for the Sig P226 in .357 Sig. It is an excellent round.

    Also H110 and Win 296 work just as well.
    I would rather stand against the cannons of the wicked than against the prayers of the righteous.


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  8. #8
    VIP Member Array Tubby45's Avatar
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    The Dillon carbide sizer is a must for the SIG. No lube.

    If you are using a powder die or similar, polish it down to .350 to remove any bullet setback issues.

    Longshot is also a very good SIG powder.
    07/02 FFL/SOT since 2006

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