general reloading questions

This is a discussion on general reloading questions within the Reloading forums, part of the Defensive Ammunition & Ballistics category; I am looking for a good set to get started. any pointer there would be great. I was reading hodgdon's 2010 manual and i am ...

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Thread: general reloading questions

  1. #1
    Member Array russ1986's Avatar
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    general reloading questions

    I am looking for a good set to get started. any pointer there would be great. I was reading hodgdon's 2010 manual and i am wondering what is the the difference from psi to cup. i read what it was and it didn't make much since. i am looking to reload my 308 for hunting and my 9mm and 45 for target shooting.
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    Ex Member Array Ram Rod's Avatar
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    I've been reloading for my Savage .308 for about eight years.
    http://www.shootingsoftware.com/ftp/psicuparticle2.pdf

  4. #3
    Member Array russ1986's Avatar
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    i just purchased a winchester module 100 308. i am looking to use for hunting. and i figure why not reload my bullets
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    Reloading for semiauto rifles requires a but more care than for a bolt-action rifle, but can be done just the same. Resizing is more critical for a semiauto. Other than than, it's not any more of a problem and can increase the accuracy of you rifle. The .308 is a very good all-around cartridge.
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    Senior Member Array jem102's Avatar
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    Cup stands for "copper units pressure" and psi stands for "pounds square inch". Cup measurements are obtained from a pressure test chamber (a stand alone breech often refereed to as a pressure gun) that has a hole drilled through it allowing insertion of a copper slug that has known "upset" characteristics to rest on the cartridge case. The slug is locked in place by a threaded cap. The round is fired and the slug is removed and measured. It is compared against a chart that reads the amount of upset of the slug to known SAMMI max allowed pressure curve for a particular cartridge.
    Psi measurements are obtained from a strain gauge (transducer) attached to the outside of a standard chamber/barrel combination. When the round is fired the gauge measures the instantaneous increase in diameter of the chamber at max pressure. There is a SAMMI chart for max allowed distortion of the chamber that relates directly to max psi pressure curve for a particular cartridge.
    The transducer system was developed as the cup system is very expensive to operate and required "one of test chambers". The powder and arms manufactures now have cross reference charts between the two. These are confirmed with "closed bomb tests" in laboratories and data should not be extrapolated by the handloader from published loads as you can NOT duplicate the burning rate conditions.

    Max CUP for a .308 Win is 52,000
    Max PSI for a .308 win is 62,000

    These numbers hold true no matter the bullet weight and remember...your particular firearm may not take the full 62,000 psi/52,000 cup. Use the starting load and work up never to exceed max listed loads!!!
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  7. #6
    Member Array russ1986's Avatar
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    ok thank you all for the advice. i was going to do the basic loads and see what it is all about then when i learned more about what i was doing start see what i can do with them. how about the tools to do this? i am looking on different websites and i am just wondering is there a good starter kit for around 300- 700.
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    Senior Member Array boscobeans's Avatar
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    Thumbs up

    With a semi rifle it is best to full length resize your brass. Get a full length resizing die...

    You will need
    A reloading manual
    A good press
    A set of dies-1. A resizing/depriming die-2. A bullet seating/crimp die or( 2.A bullet seating die and 3. A factory crimp die)
    A priming tool
    A scale
    A powder measure
    A funnel
    A loading block
    Some method of lubricating the brass for resizing
    A primer pocket and flash hole cleaner
    A brass trimmer
    A chamfer/deburring tool
    A set of calipers
    A system for cleaning fired brass
    A bullet puller will come in handy as well (this is the eraser on your pencil)
    A stuck case remover (lubricating is very important to avoid needing one of these).

    Look at Midway-- Kempf gun shop--Natchez or ar any number of suppliers for a start up kit. Add all the missing items to your order.

    A good single stage press is a great way to begin and for loading hunting and target rounds will serve you for a lifetime.

    I have been using an RCBS Rockchucker for years and it will outlive me and go on to serve someone else in the future.

    Your price range will get you what you need. Aside from Brass, bullets, powder and primer you will be good to go.

    bosco

  9. #8
    VIP Member Array cvhoss's Avatar
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    Since rifle rounds are on your list for reloading, I would highly recommend the Lyman T-Mag Turret Kit. It has most of the items on bosco's list plus you can buy extra turrets and leave your dies for each caliber set up. Get some of the Frankford Arsenal trays. They're worth the little additional cost as they hold your cases securely with no wobble.

    One thing I consider a necessity, though I'm sure others don't, is a tumbler. Especially for cases that require lubrication. The Frankford Arsenal kit is relatively inexpensive and they work well and last a loooong time.

    And for case lube, you can't beat Hornady One-Shot.

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  10. #9
    Senior Member Array boscobeans's Avatar
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    RUSS1986,

    There was a factory recall on the Winchester model 100 a few years ago. Check yours out. It was a firing pin problem and resolved by simply changing it.

    WINCHESTER MODEL 100 FIRING PIN RECALL - A notice dated 7-1990 relates the following

    “PRODUCT SAFETY WARNING AND REPLACEMENT NOTICE. Attention owners of Winchester model 100 rifles and carbines please read this notice. In July of 1990 the following product safety warning was issued by Winchester. It has come to our attention that the firing pin in the Winchester Model 100 Rifle or Carbine may break due to use and metal fatigue and become lodged in the breech bolt face. If this occurs, the firearm may fire before the action is locked causing severe damage to the firearm and possibly injury or death to the shooter and bystander.

    WARNING DO NOT SHOOT YOUR WINCHESTER MODEL 100 RIFLE OR CARBINE. Repair and replacement. A new firing pin has been designed to replace the firing pin originally made for the Winchester Model 100 Rifle and Carbine. The new firing pins will be available in April 1991. If you own a Winchester Model 100 Rifle or Carbine, please send your firearm to one of the authorized Winchester Model 100 Firing Pin Replacement Centers indicated below. Your Winchester Model 100 firearm will be inspected, the firing pin replaced and tested and the firearm returned to you. The inspection, replacement/testing and return postage will be accomplished at no cost to you. If other repair or maintenance work is authorized by you to be performed on the firearm when the firing pin is replaced, such work shall be at your cost.”

    bosco

  11. #10
    Member Array russ1986's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by boscobeans View Post
    RUSS1986,

    There was a factory recall on the Winchester model 100 a few years ago. Check yours out. It was a firing pin problem and resolved by simply changing it.

    WINCHESTER MODEL 100 FIRING PIN RECALL - A notice dated 7-1990 relates the following

    “PRODUCT SAFETY WARNING AND REPLACEMENT NOTICE. Attention owners of Winchester model 100 rifles and carbines please read this notice. In July of 1990 the following product safety warning was issued by Winchester. It has come to our attention that the firing pin in the Winchester Model 100 Rifle or Carbine may break due to use and metal fatigue and become lodged in the breech bolt face. If this occurs, the firearm may fire before the action is locked causing severe damage to the firearm and possibly injury or death to the shooter and bystander.

    WARNING DO NOT SHOOT YOUR WINCHESTER MODEL 100 RIFLE OR CARBINE. Repair and replacement. A new firing pin has been designed to replace the firing pin originally made for the Winchester Model 100 Rifle and Carbine. The new firing pins will be available in April 1991. If you own a Winchester Model 100 Rifle or Carbine, please send your firearm to one of the authorized Winchester Model 100 Firing Pin Replacement Centers indicated below. Your Winchester Model 100 firearm will be inspected, the firing pin replaced and tested and the firearm returned to you. The inspection, replacement/testing and return postage will be accomplished at no cost to you. If other repair or maintenance work is authorized by you to be performed on the firearm when the firing pin is replaced, such work shall be at your cost.”

    bosco
    Thank you i did find that on a website and i got the serial number to my firearm and i was going to call winchester to see if it had been done and if not call the store who is holding it for me to see if he can send it off to get fixed because i won't see this till june due to the fact that i am in the middle east. Thank you for this info.
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  12. #11
    Senior Member Array boscobeans's Avatar
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    Good luck with the Winchester.. It is a fine carbine style rifle. I hunted with one years ago and wished It was mine.

    bosco

  13. #12
    Distinguished Member Array coffeecup's Avatar
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    I would recomend SMALL BASE dies for any lever or auto rifle.

    Also, the M-100 in .308 is a darn good deer rifle,but----real accuracy is lacking ! A minute of a pie pan at 100 yards is about average for them.

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