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Belts

2K views 17 replies 18 participants last post by  yellowv 
#1 ·
When I asked a question about holster options for my XD SC someone raised a point that I haven't considered before: "Good belt is as important as a good holster". So my question is what are the criteria when it comes to choosing a good belt? From the other thread I gather that:
1. Belt needs to be able to lay more or less straight without much sagging when layed across armrests of a chair.
2. Belt needs to be rather wide (1.5"?)
3. Double grain (?)

Anything that I'm missing? Anything else watch out for?

Thanks
 
#2 ·
Huzar,

A belt from any of the top makers will be what you are looking for. I use a Mitch Rosen leather gun belt and it could hold up a ship without sagging! well, maybe not a ship of course but you get the idea. These guy's take all the guess work out of buying a good belt.

I would also look at the belt man's stuff. Good price, great quality.

http://www.thebeltman.net/


Ti
 
#3 ·
Howdy!
A properly designed and constructed gun belt will always be made from two plys of full grain (smooth) leather. This is because approx 90% of the strength in a piece of leather is in the first 1/10 of an inch, and to get the necessary lateral integrity you need two layers (of AT LEAST 6-7 oz leather, preferable 7-8 oz), rather than a single layer of thicker material.
The area of the hide in which the belt is cut is also critical. My personal belief is that a good belt must be cut along the animal's spine in order to give you the very best possible performance long term. That part of a hide is very firm and dense, yet supple and flexible.
Stitching should be a firm, tight and even lock-stitch. The edges should be nice and slick and the finish really needs to be acrylic or wax based - lacquer tends to crack the leather over time, and oil just makes it too soft. The buckle should be solid brass (or plated solid brass) and secured with screw posts.
The body of the belt ought be curved because your hip bones are narrower at the top. The curve will make the belt lie flatter and be more comfortable as it breaks in and molds to the shape of your body.
To determine if a given belt is stiff enough, try squeezing it from edge to edge. It you can't, it is probably OK, but if there is any tendency to bow or roll over, you probably need another belt.
I hope that this helps. Good luck!
 
#5 ·
I went to Meijers (is that a national chain or just local?) and looked through the belts. I found one - not one brand but just one belt - that was significantly more rigid that the others.

It passes the "finger pinch" test that Gary suggests but I'm sure the quality is low compared to a real gun belt and will not likely last me for years.

But for now this is now my "run about town" gun belt and it was only $15. :)
 
#6 ·
In addition to leather, I encourage you to consider the Liger Gun Belt: http://www.ligerproducts.com/product/catalog_ligerbelt_150.htm

I own two and like them, since they are functional as a sturdy gun belt, without looking tactical or screaming gun. The aluminum buckle is sturdy and masculine looking without calling attention to it as a gun belt. They are perfect for casual wear, but not as a dress belt, however.

With guns, polymer is sometimes a suitable alternative to steel. With belts, Ligerthane is my choice rather than leather.

Good luck.
 
#9 ·
Well, I just picked up a leather two-ply belt at the gun shop today. It wasn't even the best one they had. Wow...what a difference! I have on my OWB and 1911 and it's great. I can't wait to try my other stuff on it. If the belts from the many leather crafters that have been mentioned in this thread and other places on CC are any better performing, carrying wouldn't be a chore...it would be...transparent.

Michael
 
#10 ·
Amazing, huh?

Until a person actually gets a good belt, they never really knew what they were missing. Yep.. it makes all the difference in the world.
 
#11 ·
Beltman definitely gets my vote. I've had mine around a month, and absolutely love it. I prolly wouldn't wear it during any "outdoors" activities(camping, hunting, etc.), as I'd be to afraid to mess it up. Great for everyday casual wear though.

Camping, hiking, etc. I prefer the 1.5in Wilderness Instructor belt. I've had one for a couple years, and they are great belts.

I'd recommend either...

IGF
 
#12 ·
Gary Brommeland said:
Howdy!
A properly designed and constructed gun belt will always be made from two plys of full grain (smooth) leather. This is because approx 90% of the strength in a piece of leather is in the first 1/10 of an inch, and to get the necessary lateral integrity you need two layers (of AT LEAST 6-7 oz leather, preferable 7-8 oz), rather than a single layer of thicker material.
The area of the hide in which the belt is cut is also critical. My personal belief is that a good belt must be cut along the animal's spine in order to give you the very best possible performance long term. That part of a hide is very firm and dense, yet supple and flexible.
Stitching should be a firm, tight and even lock-stitch. The edges should be nice and slick and the finish really needs to be acrylic or wax based - lacquer tends to crack the leather over time, and oil just makes it too soft. The buckle should be solid brass (or plated solid brass) and secured with screw posts.
The body of the belt ought be curved because your hip bones are narrower at the top. The curve will make the belt lie flatter and be more comfortable as it breaks in and molds to the shape of your body.
To determine if a given belt is stiff enough, try squeezing it from edge to edge. It you can't, it is probably OK, but if there is any tendency to bow or roll over, you probably need another belt.
I hope that this helps. Good luck!
The only thing left out here is you can have a plastic stiffner added in between the two layers of leather. Makes all the difference in the world.
 
#13 ·
It's amazing the number of people who think the push for you to get a double thickness gun belt is just a gimick from us holster-makers for another sale. I have a belt in the shop that I use for sizing punched with holes from 28 inch to 48 inch. I have not had anyone try it with a holstered gun that has not purchased a belt.
You could have the best holster on the planet, but without a strong foundation it will not function to it's maximum potential. Another thing, make sure the belt slots in the holster match the width of the belt. If you are wearing a holster with 1 3/4 inch slots on a 1 1/4 inch width belt, once again you're not getting optimum performance no matter how good the belt is.
 
#15 ·
After getting good belts, you will never want to wear anything else.

Mine have been double ply leather 1-1/2" wide.

Of course, an interesting thing happened to me today. I went to lunch with a group of pro-gun people (about 19 of us, mostly armed).

I was wearing one of my leather belts but I have been dieting and have lost 30 lbs (with about 80 more to go). I am at the last hole on the belt.

Today I wore my 1911 in a Bianchi paddle lock holster and noticed that it seemed to flop around way too much. Obviously the belt wasn't tight enough. I should have paid more attention before I left home but once at the restaurant, there was nothing I could do but keep my arm over the gun and holster to keep them stablized.

When I got home, I tried the same gun and holster using my (correctly sized) Wilderness instructors belt and the gun and holster road very tight against my side with NO movement.

I think the key is at least 1 1/2", very rigid, with the ability to tighten very tight.
 
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