I'll chime in and help with as many of the questions as I can.
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Originally Posted by sqwerty
1. Regarding the heating/molding part of the procedure, which of the following will give me the best results:
a) Cut Kydex templates slightly oversized, heat, mold in press, rivet, THEN trim to final dimensions.
b) Cut Kydex templates to final dimensions, try really hard to keep everything aligned during the molding process (seems like this might be difficult unless the heated Kydex is "stickier" than I envision), rivet.
c) Cut Kydex templates to final dimensions, sandwich sides together and place outside rivets, put a thin piece of sheet metal inside to keep the sides from sticking together (or is this necessary?), heat, carefully open and slide handgun in, mold in press, place remaining rivets.
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Use method a) because you'll find that even if you measure exactly you'll probably need to trim here and there anyways so no need to sweat the final dimensions until you get to the finishing stage after molding. Kydex does not get "sticky" unless it's wayyyy overheated. You really only need to get it hot enough so it goes "limp".
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2. Do I need to use any adhesive like contact cement or will the rivets be sufficient? The area I'm specifically concerned about is the belt slots.
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This depends on your design. Pancake designs are typically more difficult than scabbard designs because the pancake needs some kind of fasteners on both sides to keep it together. Rivets should be sufficient as long as you use enough of them spaced close enough together. The number really depends on the size of the firearm.
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3. Regarding cutting the Kydex, I'm thinking long straight cuts will get the utility knife, curves/details the jigsaw, edges fine grit sandpaper, and corners the Dremel on low speed. Good plan or not? Suggestions?
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Depending on the thickness of your kydex you may want to try using metal snips for some of the trimming. I've found they are useful for rounding sharp edges and doing gradual curves. My favorite "tool" for finishing rough edges is a simple emory board like the ones the wife uses on her nails. They are cheap and the larger ones (about 7" inches long) are small enough to get a good hold on and yet have enough sanding area to work on a whole holster.
Hope that helps.
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