Having recently bought a used Bluegrass Holsters' "Kit Carson" OWB holster for the M&P Compact, I'd like to share some thoughts and have a question for Brock (who I'm sure will spot this thread
).
I did indeed see the posting....though not until I was prompted 
I've now been wearing the holster for ~1.5 days. In my job I wear a ballistic vest and carry concealed (usually Shabak or other). While in my office (home) on these hot, humid days I will oftentimes not wear any shirt at all . . . until I need to go out. I wear a Wilderness Trainer Belt, 1.5", 5-stitch.
Here are my initial reactions to the holster:
- The rake angle and height of the holster is excellent. The length of the holster for the M&P Compact is reasonably short so that I probably don't need super-long shirts to cover it.
thank you for the compliments
- It does NOT dig in under the vest panels, unlike many pancake type holsters. The only other pancake holster I like to date is Gary Brommeland's for my 1911 . . . it exhibits this same excellent feature.
wow....not sure what to say other than a thank you.
- It can be slid along the Wilderness Trainer Belt . . . something I can not do with my Brommeland 1911 holster. I find that useful, although I had talked with Gary about it shortly after getting his holster and I understand why he built his to stay in the exact spot it was attached to.
My holster belt slots are designed to be 5/8" when ordered for a 1.5" belt. This helps keep the top and bottom of the belt from being worn excessively. It also helps you to be able to readjust, and move, the holster when you want to do so, however, they do not move on their own when your belt is tightened appropriately. The 1/8" really is a difference maker. Making them match can be a real pain when you want to readjust, and can leave a nice expensive belt looking ragged in the area where you slide your holster on and off.
- It is comfortable!
- My question: When holstering the M&P 9c, most times, the slide is forced back ~1/8" and stays there unless manually pushed into lockup. Is this a break-in issue? Does this require the wax paper insertion technique to resolve? Other ways to deal with this? [The original owner told me he only wore it a few hours around his house.]
The best way to break in my holsters is to draw and reholster about a hundred million times....well, perhaps not that many times. Due to the sealant method I use, the wax paper trick and wrapping the firearm typically will not achieve the goals most would expect. The sealant forms a bond and does not allow a lot of stretching....drawing and reholstering will wear the tight spots until those spots are alleviated. Your holster will then be fine with tight retention, but an easily accomplished draw.
Additionally, I agree with previous posters, place your thumb over the back of the slide as you holster. This was a method I learned with 1911's as it gets your web off of the grip safety when reholstering. It also allows you to keep the slide in battery. This, too, after multiple presentations and reholstering, should be eliminated. If not, please let me know and I will take care of you.
Overall I really like the holster and it is a fine product.