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Concealed Carry Guns This is the place to discuss what you carry, how and why or ask advice. Feel free to post pictures of your carry rigs.

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Old May 17th, 2008, 09:57 PM   #41
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Every one is certainly entitled to their own opinion. I have had both the KT and I now pocket carry the LCP. IMO, they are not carbon copies. The Ruger is a better built gun. I have had guns that cost a $1000.00 that have had problems. How many different ways can you make a small auto ? They are bound to look alike in some of their features.
Case in point was my hammer spring. Look at the LCP exploded diagram. Hammer spring setup is virtually identical. If that breaks you have a paperweight. Just saying for people with these little guns to break them in well before they are trusted. If a part is truly defective, it should fail fairly early in use (hopefully). Since everyone's springs aren't failing, I'm guessing it's not a design problem, more likely a bad batch of springs.

Also, how is the LCP a better built gun? Cause it looks nicer on the outside? Has Ruger's name on it? I can't say to the internal build quality since I haven't torn into one yet to compare with KT.
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Old May 18th, 2008, 03:09 AM   #42
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I sure did learn some mighty good stuff here & incredible post by maclean3.
I am just a guy that worked for a while on the plating and finishing end and I sure have seen some junk parts pass through my hands in my day.
I have also seen lots of beautifully manufactured metal also.
MIM was just coming in as I was going out the plating shop door and that stuff is (or was back then) semi-impossible to properly finish.
It used to electroplate and blue like crap.
I'm sure that has probably changed by now but, we used to call it Headache Metal.
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Old May 18th, 2008, 08:49 AM   #43
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I left the business back in '96 myself, hopefully the process has been improved since then. Unfortunately I'm like you, after seeing what I've seen I just don't trust it when lives I care about are at stake.
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Old May 18th, 2008, 10:30 AM   #44
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The MIM stuff is why a lot of people scrap several parts on new 1911's and replace them with forged. Seems like almost all makers are going MIM in certain parts, slide stops, safety levers, etc.

I've seen sintered/MIM parts work well on parts that take only compressive stress or abrasion, (like bearing surfaces/conveyor rollers and the like) For anything that gets stressed in torsion/tension, I'll take hot rolled, cold rolled, or forged any day over ANY cast, MIM, sintered part.
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Old May 18th, 2008, 12:55 PM   #45
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"The MIM stuff is why a lot of people scrap several parts on new 1911's and replace them with forged."

That would be me.
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Old May 18th, 2008, 09:22 PM   #46
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My LCP is the one that broke after 177 rounds fired. I just received it back from the Ruger repair facility. Ruger turned it around in about a two week time period. The repair invoice is pretty scant in the description of work completed, however, it does say the "insert" and "trigger pin" were repaired and the firearm was test fired. I haven't had an opportunity to test fire the gun myself just yet but will do so soon.
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Old May 18th, 2008, 10:15 PM   #47
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GC:
Keep us updated on how it tests out for you. Really hope you won't have any more problems with it.
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Old May 19th, 2008, 08:21 AM   #48
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Jack:

Thanks for a great series of posts!
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Old May 19th, 2008, 11:31 AM   #49
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i think i will stay with my p3at. it has the bugs worked out. no reason to do it on a new gun.
I agree with you.

I never shoot a pocket gun that much. Figure they are not meant to take that kind pressure.

Each time, I go to the range to target pink, I always fire the clip that is in my pocket pistol.

Guess what? I’ve never had a hiccup from the P3AT.

I also never buy anything when it’s brand new.. That includes guns cars, etc.
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Old May 21st, 2008, 10:57 AM   #50
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Boy did I learn a lot about MIM parts. Thanks maclean3, Shizzlemah, and QKShooter! Say I do have a question though for you guys, is there any way to tell if a gun part is MIM? Is it magnetic or non magnetic?
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