SIGP250

I got a great deal on a full size 5" Kimber TLE/RC II 1911 with night sites today. Normally I only buy blued or blackened stainless, usually SIG's This is a full size all Satin Stainless Steel model with black rubberized grips.

I always thought this type of gun was too much (bluntly) like a pimp gun but It is actually a beautiful piece, very finely manufactured in the USA.

The dealer sold it to me as used even though it has never been fired. It was in the original case, had a manual but seems to be missing a small wrench or key for take-down. Anyone know what is needed?

My range said they would show me how to do the take-down next time I go.

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If you understand, things are just as they are... If you do not understand, things are just as they are....
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dukalmighty

Not sure about the kimber but my SA 1911-A1 came with a key that would lock it up so you couldn't fire it,It was on the mainspring housing

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Hubs

I recently bought a Kimber UC II and it was missing the take-down tool as well. My gun shop uses a paper clip(small one) in case one loses the tool. I was like "cool"!!! You can also buy them one the Kimber website.

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Kimber UC II
SA XD-45 SC
1948 16g Remington Model 24
Mossberg .410g shottie

Freakdaddy

If it came with the original box, look under the foam as there should be a bushing wrench in there. It will look exactly like this:
MidwayUSA - Kimber Barrel Bushing Wrench 1911 Government, Commander Polymer Black

If you don't have the wrench, it can still be taken down but be careful with the guide rod plug when you turn the barrel bushing and it clears the plug. Ideally, keep one finger on the plug because it will shoot into oblivion! Don't ask me how I know.

It's very simple to take them down, albeit not as simple as a Sig or Glock. Here's a youtube video search on Kimber disassembly:

YouTube - kimber disassembly

A few real quick tips. When disassembling and assembling your Kimber, DO NOT DEPRESS THE GRIP SAFETY while removing are putting back on the slide. Any Kimber with a "II" behind the name has a Swartz safety mechanism. If you depress the grip safety, you risk the chance of damaging the small push rod which depresses the firing pin block rendering your gun useless. It is really no big deal on taking a "II" down just be conscious of what you're doing.

Be VERY careful when replacing the slide stop. The first few times, they are really tight (at least my Kimber's have been) and difficult to reinstall. Ideally, you go "up and in" with the slide stop, it's the going up that gives the gun the infamous "Idiot Scratch". Put a business card, playing card, etc. against the frame when reinstalling the slide stop to give some protection against this. You also might need something to depress the small rod in the plunger tube the first couple of times as well until you get the hang of it. Once again, just be conscious of your actions and don't try to use brute force to get it back in because that is where you will screw up.

Other than keeping it lubed with qaulity oil (I use FP-10) and running it wet during break-in and using some good FMJ rounds, you should be good to go. If this is your first 1911 and your first time shooting one, you're about to see what all the fuss is about. Welcome to the "Madness" and start making room for your 2nd Kimber!

eldorado

Congrats and welcome to the world of Kimber, great advice above and I second it.

I can take my Kimber UC2 down without the tool, but be careful of the spring when removing it.
p.s my tool was taped under the foam with the lube tube sample.

Pictures please

SIGP250

Thanks for the advice. I'm used to the very simple take down of the SIGS I own. I Think I am going to like the Kimber, except maybe for cleaning.

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If you understand, things are just as they are... If you do not understand, things are just as they are....
- Zen Saying