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Defensive Carry Holsters & Carry Options There are some really good defensive carry holster designs, as well as some very bad ones on the market today. Whether you are in the market for a new holster or just discovered another perfect carry option, let us know about it here.

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Old September 30th, 2007, 10:55 PM   #11
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If you notice, the rear loop is slightly larger than the front loop.

Gary sells replacement loops! All you have to do is get the same size loop as on the rear or go for a set of loops for a larger belt.

I have a double layer bull hide belt from The Belt Man and I have the same problem with the front loops on my Max Con V.

It was then that I discovered the rear loop seems to be just a skosh larger than the front loop.

Gary is a design genius so it is probably designed that way for a reason. (just like the belt slots on his Def Con OWB holsters).

I have gotten much better at doing the snaps on my holster with practice, but contact Gary and he'll make you happy with something that works for you!

Take care and enjoy the holster. It's probably one of the best of best.

Personally, I have not had a more comfortable holster, ever!
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Old September 30th, 2007, 11:03 PM   #12
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The loops "are" different sizes for a reason. But the front (smaller of the two) does not have to be so tight around a belt. It is IMO a design flaw even for Gary when using a double thick carry belt. The rear is larger in order to allow the holster to cant slightly when sitting for better comfort/placement when sitting. The front strap is ment to be a bit more snug but IMO not that snug.


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Old October 1st, 2007, 04:21 AM   #13
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While on the subject of snaps- I've been curious. What exactly is a "one way snap" and how is it different than other snaps in use?
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Old October 1st, 2007, 07:16 AM   #14
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While on the subject of snaps- I've been curious. What exactly is a "one way snap" and how is it different than other snaps in use?

A "one way snap" or "pull the dot" is a snap that originated for marine use, on boat canvas. The intent is that you face the "to open direction" leeward so that the wind would not undo your canvas. They work by means of a tab inside the snap that prevents the snap from being closed or opened in any direction but the intended.

Most holster makers use them. And the ones that conform are fantastic for holster use. I found them to be inconsistent in the amount of force used to close and open (especially open). Some snaps delivered were almost impossible to open once closed (even in the intended direction). After a few complaints from customers, I started using normal snaps.
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Old October 1st, 2007, 07:20 AM   #15
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By the way, I just checked out Gary's site. I am glad I am a kydex maker and not competing against his. Very nice holsters.
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Old October 1st, 2007, 10:17 AM   #16
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Would dampining the leathe loops, adding a small shim to increase thickness to the belt and then snapping the loops over the belt/shim and letting things dry work?

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Old October 1st, 2007, 11:28 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete10 View Post
A "one way snap" or "pull the dot" is a snap that originated for marine use, on boat canvas. The intent is that you face the "to open direction" leeward so that the wind would not undo your canvas. They work by means of a tab inside the snap that prevents the snap from being closed or opened in any direction but the intended.

Most holster makers use them. And the ones that conform are fantastic for holster use. I found them to be inconsistent in the amount of force used to close and open (especially open). Some snaps delivered were almost impossible to open once closed (even in the intended direction). After a few complaints from customers, I started using normal snaps.
Hint: look inside the female snap on a snap that's difficult to open, or close and note the orientation of the spring wire inside the snap. One way snaps that are hard to manipulate, almost always have the spring oriented where the gap between the two spring ends is lined up between 11 and 1 O'clock when looking at the female snap with the inside tab being 6 O'clock.

The fix: take the point of an awl and rotate the gap in the spring so it is closer to the 6 O'clock position and then take a pair of side cutters and crimp the tab that traps the spring so that it keeps it from rotating. A drop of machine oil, or a little wax on the snap and your good to go.

The reason: the two ends of the wire spring enclosed within the female snap are clipped to length during the manufacturing process and sometimes have a burr on the ends where they are clipped. When the gap in the spring is oriented at 12 O'clock on the female snap, any burr that is present can bite into the male stud as the snap closes, which keeps the spring from spreading open to accept the stud. When the gap in the spring is oriented more towards the other end at six O'clock, the pressure of closing is on the bend of the wire spring and not on the sharp edges of the spring ends. Normal snaps do not have the locking tab of the one-ways and since they are snapped shut straight down instead of rolled on, they are not subject to the same opening and closing problems.

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Old October 1st, 2007, 01:32 PM   #18
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Hint: look inside the female snap on a snap that's difficult to open, or close ...
Tony,
Thanks for the tip. I may try them again with this info. I have had pretty good luck with normal snaps, but the pull the dots were great when I had a set that worked well. This little guy certainly appreciates the help from a "not so little guy"!
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Old October 1st, 2007, 04:20 PM   #19
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Are they "directional" snaps? Check for a dot indicating the direction to snap/unsnap.
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Old October 1st, 2007, 04:43 PM   #20
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I'd contact Gary for a new loop.
+1 New loop.

My MS VMII had this problem w/Rafter S belt. Called MS but they said the problem was with the belt! Told them I had 5 other VMII with no problem with that belt-still claimed it was the belt.

My .02
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