Stiffening Leather Holsters

cdb45357 · October 24th, 2007, 12:59 PM

First of all, this is a great forum! Lots of knowledgeable people with willingness to help.

I have been making my own leather holsters for about 6 months now and I am prettty happy with the results. I have a question about the stiffness or firmness of holsters. I have made many IWB holsters that work great, but I would like them to be a little firmer. I have used the hot water, hot water with alcohol, and hot water with soap techniques for molding the leather. The holsters form and mold well, but they just aren't stiff enough for me once they are dried. I have handled some professionally made holsters that are very rigid without the use of reinforcement. Often times with thinner leather than the leather I am using.

My question is how do they get the molded leather to be so rigid? Is there some kind of finish (chemical) that they use to stiffen the leather once its molded? Or is it something in the process that I am missing.

Thanks in advance for any helpful suggestions.

Redneck Repairs · October 24th, 2007, 01:13 PM

Quote:

I have handled some professionally made holsters that are very rigid without the use of reinforcement. Often times with thinner leather than the leather I am using.

My question is how do they get the molded leather to be so rigid? Is there some kind of finish (chemical) that they use to stiffen the leather once its molded? Or is it something in the process that I am missing.

Tho i am no holstermaker ( i am sure some of our fine members will chime in ) IMHO its a combo of lack of experiance in boning on your part , and a lack of experiance in selecting the proper leather to start with . Gunsmithing is somewhat a science since you deal with known material propertys , Leathersmithing is much more an art since you deal in organic material where each skin , and even each part of each skin will be different to work with . Keep plugging and dont get disappointed . Youll likely get some fine tips here , but the real answer is to build more and learn from each one you do .

MNBurl · October 24th, 2007, 08:43 PM

I think I maybe able to help.

After hot wet forming (you dip it completely correct), do you stain the leather and then put a top coat on it?

Staining the leather helps firm it up and the top coat helps also. Also, the leather itself does play a part.

We need pictures now of some of your holsters. Welcome to the forum.

jarhead79 · October 24th, 2007, 11:14 PM

First step is getting decent vegetable tanned leather. PM me if you need some good sources.

Dying and clear coating the holster will stiffen it more, after it is molded.

The more detail you can get into the holster by boning, the more retention and stiffer it will be.

A lot of makers use a press with gum rubber. With the blank in the wet holster, pressing between the gum rubber compresses the leather a tad and this also helps with rigidity, though it can easily be accomplished with hand tools.

To me, it sounds like the problem is in your leather, not so much your method.

Nate

LastManOut · October 25th, 2007, 08:51 AM

Let me ask also, how would I make an existing leather softer, or the better question is how do I re-form a holster to allow for a draw with less resistance?
I've tried holster, draw, re-holster about 200 times with limited results.

jarhead79 · October 25th, 2007, 09:11 AM

The first step is to stretch the holster by wrapping your unloaded gun in ziplock bags, seran wrap, or wax paper. Wax paper being the best choice.

Insert your wrapped gun into the holslter and let it sit for a while.

You DON'T want to soften the leather.

Nate

cdb45357 · October 25th, 2007, 11:36 AM

Thanks everyone. To answer some of your questions: the leather I have been using has already been stained (black). I purchased it that way. Perhaps another dip or two might help. I also brush on a clear coat of sealer after I finish the molding. It sounds like there might be other products out there that I could dip the whole holster in to seal it (possibly multiple times would help). I will try to post some pictures, but I'm having camera issues right now.

Again, thanks for everyone's help. It is truly appreciated.

QKShooter · October 25th, 2007, 01:50 PM

I would agree that your problem is likely your choice of leather.

TexasGeezer · October 25th, 2007, 03:38 PM

I tried my hand at making a leather holster for my P3AT, following informatin gleaned from THIS FORUM and am pleased with the outcome. I dyed the holster after I cut out the pieces, then glued and stitched it and then hand molded it after dipping it in hot water with a bit of dish soap for about 40 seconds (till the bubbles stopped), trying to get as much definition as possible. I didn't have any way to use a press. After it dried for about 24 hours, I gave it a couple of coats of clear leather sealer and a light coat of neutral shoe polish. It seems to be retaining it's shape OK after about a month of use.

I think the leather was about 5 -7 oz, but the P3AT is a small, light weapon, so larger pistols would probably need thicker leather and, I suspect, would be more difficult to hand mold.

October 24th, 2007, 12:59 PM	#1
cdb45357 New Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Texas Posts: 3	Stiffening Leather Holsters First of all, this is a great forum! Lots of knowledgeable people with willingness to help. I have been making my own leather holsters for about 6 months now and I am prettty happy with the results. I have a question about the stiffness or firmness of holsters. I have made many IWB holsters that work great, but I would like them to be a little firmer. I have used the hot water, hot water with alcohol, and hot water with soap techniques for molding the leather. The holsters form and mold well, but they just aren't stiff enough for me once they are dried. I have handled some professionally made holsters that are very rigid without the use of reinforcement. Often times with thinner leather than the leather I am using. My question is how do they get the molded leather to be so rigid? Is there some kind of finish (chemical) that they use to stiffen the leather once its molded? Or is it something in the process that I am missing. Thanks in advance for any helpful suggestions.

October 24th, 2007, 08:43 PM	#3
MNBurl VIP Member Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Minnesota Posts: 2,338	I think I maybe able to help. After hot wet forming (you dip it completely correct), do you stain the leather and then put a top coat on it? Staining the leather helps firm it up and the top coat helps also. Also, the leather itself does play a part. We need pictures now of some of your holsters. Welcome to the forum. __________________ MNBurl Side Guard Holsters "If everyone is thinking alike, then somebody isn't thinking" - George S. Patton.

October 24th, 2007, 11:14 PM	#4
jarhead79 Distinguished Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Stansbury Park, UT Posts: 1,298	First step is getting decent vegetable tanned leather. PM me if you need some good sources. Dying and clear coating the holster will stiffen it more, after it is molded. The more detail you can get into the holster by boning, the more retention and stiffer it will be. A lot of makers use a press with gum rubber. With the blank in the wet holster, pressing between the gum rubber compresses the leather a tad and this also helps with rigidity, though it can easily be accomplished with hand tools. To me, it sounds like the problem is in your leather, not so much your method. Nate __________________ Sig P239 9mm Bersa Thunder.45 Ruger SP101 .38 SPL Glock 36 (night sites) UBG Holsters current wait time as of 7-16-2009: 3-5 weeks.

October 25th, 2007, 09:11 AM	#6
jarhead79 Distinguished Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Stansbury Park, UT Posts: 1,298	The first step is to stretch the holster by wrapping your unloaded gun in ziplock bags, seran wrap, or wax paper. Wax paper being the best choice. Insert your wrapped gun into the holslter and let it sit for a while. You DON'T want to soften the leather. Nate __________________ Sig P239 9mm Bersa Thunder.45 Ruger SP101 .38 SPL Glock 36 (night sites) UBG Holsters current wait time as of 7-16-2009: 3-5 weeks.

October 25th, 2007, 01:50 PM	#8
QKShooter Assistant Administrator Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Off Of The X Posts: 23,476	I would agree that your problem is likely your choice of leather. __________________ Liberty/Tyranny ___________________________ Ain't That A Shame! Be Happy! *http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2OG3u...1&feature=fvwp*

October 25th, 2007, 08:51 AM	#5
LastManOut Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Emmaus, PA Posts: 420	Let me ask also, how would I make an existing leather softer, or the better question is how do I re-form a holster to allow for a draw with less resistance? I've tried holster, draw, re-holster about 200 times with limited results.

October 25th, 2007, 11:36 AM	#7
cdb45357 New Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Texas Posts: 3	Thanks everyone. To answer some of your questions: the leather I have been using has already been stained (black). I purchased it that way. Perhaps another dip or two might help. I also brush on a clear coat of sealer after I finish the molding. It sounds like there might be other products out there that I could dip the whole holster in to seal it (possibly multiple times would help). I will try to post some pictures, but I'm having camera issues right now. Again, thanks for everyone's help. It is truly appreciated.

October 25th, 2007, 03:38 PM	#9
TexasGeezer Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Texas Posts: 69	I tried my hand at making a leather holster for my P3AT, following informatin gleaned from THIS FORUM and am pleased with the outcome. I dyed the holster after I cut out the pieces, then glued and stitched it and then hand molded it after dipping it in hot water with a bit of dish soap for about 40 seconds (till the bubbles stopped), trying to get as much definition as possible. I didn't have any way to use a press. After it dried for about 24 hours, I gave it a couple of coats of clear leather sealer and a light coat of neutral shoe polish. It seems to be retaining it's shape OK after about a month of use. I think the leather was about 5 -7 oz, but the P3AT is a small, light weapon, so larger pistols would probably need thicker leather and, I suspect, would be more difficult to hand mold. __________________ Chuck ___________________________________ There are no answers --- only choices.

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