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Defensive Carry Holsters & Carry Options There are some really good defensive carry holster designs, as well as some very bad ones on the market today. Whether you are in the market for a new holster or just discovered another perfect carry option, let us know about it here.

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Old December 22nd, 2008, 04:51 PM   #1
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Tokarev IWB Kydex Holster with J-hooks

Ok, I got around to putting together a carry holster for my Tok (Norinco 213). At first I flirted with a complicated IWB crossdraw design. It involved a trailing support arm that could have been made of either leather or kydex and would have to be angled just right to allow concealability, comfort & a good draw. It's an intriguing idea, but overly complicated and though I might mess with it in the future today I just wanted something easy that I knew could work. In the end, I decided on a very simple IWB scabbard design using a single piece of kydex. The dual J-hooks add a little bit of stability by being able to straddle a belt loop. I used the thinnest kydex I had (.63) to minimize any added width which as an added benefit gives the clips just a tad amount of flexibility so that they can be maneuvered onto the belt. It surprised me how light it ended up.


The outside of the holster has the majority of the molding while the inside is fairly flat since that's the side that's against the body.
I canted the holster a little rearward so that the barrel lays comfortably along the inside of my thigh when worn at the appendix position. It's still high enough to allow me to get a solid grip.

It also works in other IWB positions, but I really like it at the appendix spot.

I wore it this evening for a few hours at the mall and though I noticed it, it never hurt to wear. Now I have a way to carry my Tok concealed so I call this one a success.
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Old December 22nd, 2008, 10:59 PM   #2
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Cool, so do you leave it at half-cock, hammer down on a round or empty chamber?
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Old December 23rd, 2008, 01:22 AM   #3
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Looks like a good start.
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Old December 23rd, 2008, 06:50 AM   #4
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I could never carry that way...(too fat!)...but if it works for you......nice job!
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Old December 23rd, 2008, 10:13 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colin View Post
Cool, so do you leave it at half-cock, hammer down on a round or empty chamber?
There has been much debate on it, but I feel comfortable carrying it at half-cock with a round chambered. I've practiced drawing and cocking the hammer with one hand and also with sweep cocking it with my weak hand (like the cowboys do). There's enough of the hammer peeking above the slide to sweep cock, but do it too many times and it'll chew up your hand. Another option is to carry chamber empty with the hammer back since the Tok slide can fairly easily be cycled using the rear sight against the belt, but cocking the hammer is easier to do in a confined space like a car.
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Mine: S&W 908.....Wife's: Ruger SP101 3"
------Kahr PM9...............Sig P239 (it's her's now)
------Norinco 213...........Charter Arms Undercover

Hidden Defense - Personal gun & holster designs/reviews.
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Old December 23rd, 2008, 02:53 PM   #6
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I was asked on another forum for a tutorial so I did a brief writeup for those who would like to try their hand and making a kydex holster. I figured I'd post it here too.

This isn't a formal tutorial, but these are the steps I took to make it.

1. Create a paper template which is used to judge how much kydex to use and the general shape. I used the gun for this part and taped a chopstick to the top of the slide for the sight channel.
2. Using the template I cut the kydex using metal snips.
3. Usually I'll put the whole piece of kydex in a toaster oven set at about 225 for handful of seconds watching it till it starts to flop and then take it out and wrap it around the gun and add pressure. In this case the kydex was a little too long to fit in my small oven so I took a different tactic. Using a heat gun I did an initial fold on a soft & squishy folded blanket. Wear gloves from here on out to protect your hands. Things get hot.
4. Then I focused on different areas heating and pressing to make it a snug fit. I indent the trigger guard a little extra for retention, pulling the gun out before it gets completely rigid so that it's not too tight.
5. Once the fit is right I used a leather punch to make the holes for the rivets. This works for the thin kydex for thicker stuff you'll need to drill the holes. Then I punched the rivets in and tested the gun fit again.
6. At this point I start trimming off overhang with the metal snips.
7. The clips are integral with the holster so they are formed after the mold of the gun has been set. I cut out the general shape for the clips as if they were straightened out and using a 1.5" wide paint stirrer cut in half as my "belt" & "pants" I heated the clips and started folding them around the stirrers. Then I cut off the excess length.
7. Test the fit one last time and if it's too loose use folded wet paper towels to protect the molded sections that don't need adjustment and then heat up the parts that do and add pressure.
8. Once everything is cut & fitted then comes the time consuming part, finishing. My prefered tool for finishing is an emory board. Keep several of different sizes on hand for some of the hard to reach parts. Sand all edges and corners so things are smooth to the touch. Do this part well and it'll look professional, do it poorly and it'll look like Bubba made it with a dull knife.

This is a very general writeup, but it'll work for most single sheet kydex holster designs.
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Mine: S&W 908.....Wife's: Ruger SP101 3"
------Kahr PM9...............Sig P239 (it's her's now)
------Norinco 213...........Charter Arms Undercover

Hidden Defense - Personal gun & holster designs/reviews.
ev239 is online now  
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