Carry blade maintenance? - Page 2

scgunlover1 · August 25th, 2009, 12:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jackle1886

May I suggest a Lansky sharpening system Lansky Deluxe Knife Sharpening System It lets you determine which of the 4 angles you want, and will keep the stone there. Works like a charm!!

I have a Lansky Sharpening System...works great.

Chiller2 · August 25th, 2009, 12:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flyby

The word Stainless in Steel simply means more resistant, Not impervious to corrosion ..If you lived right on a Coast you'd probably already know this ;)
Under normal use I've had to buff off light rust on more than one occasion on stainless blades..aus8, salt air etc..

That is why I said keep the blade clean and dry. The humidity in the summer around here is regularly over 90% in the summer so far I have had no issues as long as I keep my blades clean and dry. On the the coast with the salt air it may be more of an issue.

Mountaineer · September 1st, 2009, 10:31 AM

I have a Spyderco folder, Delica I believe. My wife got it for me as a birthday years ago. It has about a 3 1/2 inch blade. I use it all the time (letter opener, box opener, etc), so the blade is in various states.

I have a synthetic stone with a course and medium sides, a fine natural stone and some diamond sharpeners.

I usually start with the diamond if the blade is really bad, otherwise, I start with the medium stone. I don't always to to the fine stone, as a smooth edge is harder to maintain (cardboard is tough on steel).

I have a stroop as I have two straight razors, one which I use to shave. A stroop is really only useful to smooth out finished edge, to keep it from nicking you when you shave.

Using leather with grit will only do you good, if the blade is already sharp and you want to smooth it out. I wouldn't suggest it unless you really want to invest time in sharpening.

Since I use my knife almost every day, that kind of edge wouldn't last. Of course, since I use it everyday, It's in my hand and open before I'm done thinking "I need my knife".

Light oil on the hinge. Either sewing machine or a gun oil. Not 3-in-one or WD40. They have additives that dry out and gum up the works. Cooking shortening works also. No really, it does, but go light.

SC Tiger · September 2nd, 2009, 05:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wasabi

What's everybody do to keep their carry blades in top shape? I keep mine rubbed down with a little CLP from time to time and sharpen when needed. I need a better sharpener though. Any advice on a good sharpener for light duty that won't break the bank? I have a pair of Spyderco Natives, a Kershaw Chive and a few cheapo autos.

Thanks.

A friend (and knowledgable hunter) once told me that most knife sharpening should be done with a steel as opposed to a stone. I use an F-Dick sharpener I got at a butcher shop. I had been looking for one and couldn't find it at any cutlery/ knife stores. I walked in to buy some bulk hamburgers and stumbled on the one I had been searching for. Works wonders. It's the plain one with the bright orange handle.

Chiller2 · September 3rd, 2009, 03:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SC Tiger

A friend (and knowledgable hunter) once told me that most knife sharpening should be done with a steel as opposed to a stone. I use an F-Dick sharpener I got at a butcher shop. I had been looking for one and couldn't find it at any cutlery/ knife stores. I walked in to buy some bulk hamburgers and stumbled on the one I had been searching for. Works wonders. It's the plain one with the bright orange handle.

Butchers steels don't actually sharpen knifes they realign the edges.Most kitchen knifes are made of thin steel and with use the edge becomes wavy and out of alignment and doesnt cut as well the steel aligns the edge back up.It is good for maintaining an edge but not sharpening a dull knife

Gunsmoke16 · September 10th, 2009, 03:45 PM

use a pencil eraser to remove any rust spots and lead it with the lead, then oil it good and it should stop rusting....unless you're in water environment.
At the auto parts stores they used to sell Slick 1 in a red big spray can with a black top. It has Slick 50 in it and you can douse a gun & wipe it down...be out in rain forever and it just doesn't rust! I've tried Breakfree, Eezox, RemOil, 3in1 Oil, military stuff, etc. Nothing I have found keeps it from rusting longer than this stuff. Can of it lasts forever & I clean all my knives/guns with it. The paste wax idea mentioned above is a good idea as well. Works wonders on .45 mags to keep them rust free and they are "fast" on the reload. If you use the pencil eraser (smoky mtn knife works actually sells a rust remover eraser for knives) and lead the thing...if you have a touch up blue pen it goes right over the lead and blends perfect on firearms or dark knives. Most AL knife handles are painted black and it wears off after a while leaving silver...A sharpie works to cover the nicks up...works to Surefire lights as well on the finish & blends perfectly. I tend to only carry dark colored knives as shiny things are just one more thing for the bad guy to shoot at.

September 1st, 2009, 10:31 AM	#13
Mountaineer Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Michigan Posts: 97	I have a Spyderco folder, Delica I believe. My wife got it for me as a birthday years ago. It has about a 3 1/2 inch blade. I use it all the time (letter opener, box opener, etc), so the blade is in various states. I have a synthetic stone with a course and medium sides, a fine natural stone and some diamond sharpeners. I usually start with the diamond if the blade is really bad, otherwise, I start with the medium stone. I don't always to to the fine stone, as a smooth edge is harder to maintain (cardboard is tough on steel). I have a stroop as I have two straight razors, one which I use to shave. A stroop is really only useful to smooth out finished edge, to keep it from nicking you when you shave. Using leather with grit will only do you good, if the blade is already sharp and you want to smooth it out. I wouldn't suggest it unless you really want to invest time in sharpening. Since I use my knife almost every day, that kind of edge wouldn't last. Of course, since I use it everyday, It's in my hand and open before I'm done thinking "I need my knife". Light oil on the hinge. Either sewing machine or a gun oil. Not 3-in-one or WD40. They have additives that dry out and gum up the works. Cooking shortening works also. No really, it does, but go light. Last edited by Mountaineer; September 1st, 2009 at 12:42 PM..

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September 10th, 2009, 03:45 PM	#16
Gunsmoke16 Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Tennessee Posts: 44	use a pencil eraser to remove any rust spots and lead it with the lead, then oil it good and it should stop rusting....unless you're in water environment. At the auto parts stores they used to sell Slick 1 in a red big spray can with a black top. It has Slick 50 in it and you can douse a gun & wipe it down...be out in rain forever and it just doesn't rust! I've tried Breakfree, Eezox, RemOil, 3in1 Oil, military stuff, etc. Nothing I have found keeps it from rusting longer than this stuff. Can of it lasts forever & I clean all my knives/guns with it. The paste wax idea mentioned above is a good idea as well. Works wonders on .45 mags to keep them rust free and they are "fast" on the reload. If you use the pencil eraser (smoky mtn knife works actually sells a rust remover eraser for knives) and lead the thing...if you have a touch up blue pen it goes right over the lead and blends perfect on firearms or dark knives. Most AL knife handles are painted black and it wears off after a while leaving silver...A sharpie works to cover the nicks up...works to Surefire lights as well on the finish & blends perfectly. I tend to only carry dark colored knives as shiny things are just one more thing for the bad guy to shoot at.