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| Defensive Rifles & Shotgun Discussion This is the place for sniper, assault, military, law enforcement and virtually every type of defensive rifle or shotgun. |
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#1 |
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Member
![]() Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Florida
Posts: 275
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Mauser K98 and corrosive mil surplus ammo?
I got a "new" K98 8mm Mauser (stamped 1939) for Christmas that I'm about ready to go use (Our family had one about 25 years ago but this current one is a different one).
Most of the shooting I'll be doing with this will be with the corrosive mil surplus stuff, and I have a cleaning question related to that. If I understand correctly, the corrosive part of the surplus ammo is the primer. Is an "ordinary" cleaning of the bore/chamber/receiver and outside of the bolt sufficient, to remove the corrosive debris? Yesterday for my first time ever I disassembled the bolt in order to clean the spring and firing pin of all the grease the weapon had been stored in. I was thinking perhaps it might be most important to take the bolt apart in order to get at the firing pin, since that's the part that touches the corrosive primer. Does this sound right? I want to take good care of this rifle, but I'd prefer to not have to take the bolt apart each time if it's not necessary. With the K98 we had 25 years ago, I remember shooting tons of the corrosive mil surplus through it, and the only cleaning was bore receiver and the outside of the bolt, at the time I didn't even know the bolt could be taken apart further. It always worked fine but I wonder now what the inside of the bolt/firing pin assy looked like ... |
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#2 |
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Assistant Administrator
![]() Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: South West PA
Posts: 25,468
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There should not be much gas spillage to rear to really concern the bolt that much - at least - not IMO to mandate a clean each time. If bolt internally has a lube film this will help for protection anyways.
Prime concern is to use water based dissolution of the combustion byproducts - in chamber and bore - which will be usually from chlorates/chlorides released by primer compound. Any normal BP cleaning approach is ideal and then once everything properly dry clean as per normal. Some folks just use hot water! Bad thing is to go straight to conventional clean and risk trapping corrosion inducing byproducts under a film of oil. Storage conditions of gun matter too - so if in an environment reasonably low in humidity then that helps also. I do often expect a minimal ''flash'' rust to show next day - enough that a patch will come out discolored and so, I delay the 2nd stage clean until then. This ''flash'' rusting effect is IMO not harmful - it is only bad if things improperly cleaned to degree that severe rusting starts and then of course pitting can occur over time. My Turk Mauser has been shot a lot and still has a very nice looking bore.
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Chris - P95 NRA Certified Instructor & NRA Life Member. "To own a gun and assume that you are armed is like owning a piano and assuming that you are a musician!." If a BG dies as the result of pointing a gun at me, then he has merely succumbed to an occupational hazard of being a thug |
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#4 |
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Member
![]() Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Florida
Posts: 275
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Ah, very enlightening, thanks much for the info! I certainly wouldn't have thought of using windex or water, I was thinking of using a lot of Hoppes #9! I think I'll give the hot water a try this afternoon after trying my "new" 1939 K98.
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