How accurate should it be - Page 2

roadrash · March 22nd, 2006, 07:05 PM

Sounds like a good rifle to practice some basic gunsmithing on!First off ,buy the $9 part and eliminate that possibility,then get the appropiate size round headed screw and some lapping compound.Chuck the screw in your electric hand held drill and smear the head of it with lapping compound,ream that crown till you get a nice consistent ,slight chamfer at the bottom of the barrels grooves.This should also tell you if the bores muzzle is coencentric.Could be elongated due to cleaning rod damage.
I would keep the rifle,how much are you really gonna get for it anyways?I have seen some M1 rifles with some pretty bad bores that shot pretty decent.

yoshi · March 22nd, 2006, 07:45 PM

roadrash- great idea. I'll save the pic of your crown so I know what mine should look like

Hekkenschutze · October 20th, 2006, 01:11 AM

well no offense cheif but if you are having a problem with accuracy first check your ammo, then check your sights, then let someone else shoot your gun to see if the reults are repeatable ;)

Rob72 · October 20th, 2006, 09:41 AM

Yoshi, something else to bear in mind- these surplus guns have had years of steel rods being run down the bore from the muzzle-end. My guess is a re-crown would do wonders for you, along with replacing the scope mount.

The gun shop you went to must surely have been owned by a man named Ba'alam, for you surely spoke with a talking ass!

Seriously, they won't touch it because they realize that folks spending $100-200 on a rifle won't generally shill out $80 for their work. ($20 job, with $60 "shop-time").

I have a manual crowning cutter (11 degree), with .30 cal pilot that I'm willing to loan, if you promise on your most beloved's beating heart to return it

. Very easy to do- attach the pilot to the cutter, slide pilot into bore, apply steady downward pressure while turning clockwise. Remove the cutter every 6 turns or so, and brush off the shavings. Stop when you have a nice 11 degree slope from the outer edge of your barrel to the mouth of the bore (the edges of your visible rifling should look much "sharper", BTW). Use cutting oil, or something like brake fliud or Marvel Mystery oil, liberally, when cutting. PM me, if you're interested.

As Heckke says, ammo will make a difference- even WWB should be a bit more consistant than Wolf, etc..

Spectre · October 20th, 2006, 11:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yoshi

Apparently AKs and SKSs are throw away guns.

HA! Man people are short sighted. K98's, M1 Garands, and Enfields were "throw away guns" too until the supply dried up.

Ignorant people annoy me.

March 22nd, 2006, 07:45 PM	#12
yoshi Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Midcoast, Maine Posts: 115	roadrash- great idea. I'll save the pic of your crown so I know what mine should look like __________________ Live Free or Die

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March 22nd, 2006, 07:05 PM	#11
roadrash Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Western New York Posts: 96	Sounds like a good rifle to practice some basic gunsmithing on!First off ,buy the $9 part and eliminate that possibility,then get the appropiate size round headed screw and some lapping compound.Chuck the screw in your electric hand held drill and smear the head of it with lapping compound,ream that crown till you get a nice consistent ,slight chamfer at the bottom of the barrels grooves.This should also tell you if the bores muzzle is coencentric.Could be elongated due to cleaning rod damage. I would keep the rifle,how much are you really gonna get for it anyways?I have seen some M1 rifles with some pretty bad bores that shot pretty decent.

October 20th, 2006, 01:11 AM	#13
Hekkenschutze Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Arkansas Posts: 126	well no offense cheif but if you are having a problem with accuracy first check your ammo, then check your sights, then let someone else shoot your gun to see if the reults are repeatable ;)

October 20th, 2006, 09:41 AM	#14
Rob72 VIP Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: OKC, OK Posts: 2,819	Yoshi, something else to bear in mind- these surplus guns have had years of steel rods being run down the bore from the muzzle-end. My guess is a re-crown would do wonders for you, along with replacing the scope mount. The gun shop you went to must surely have been owned by a man named Ba'alam, for you surely spoke with a talking ass! Seriously, they won't touch it because they realize that folks spending $100-200 on a rifle won't generally shill out $80 for their work. ($20 job, with $60 "shop-time"). I have a manual crowning cutter (11 degree), with .30 cal pilot that I'm willing to loan, if you promise on your most beloved's beating heart to return it . Very easy to do- attach the pilot to the cutter, slide pilot into bore, apply steady downward pressure while turning clockwise. Remove the cutter every 6 turns or so, and brush off the shavings. Stop when you have a nice 11 degree slope from the outer edge of your barrel to the mouth of the bore (the edges of your visible rifling should look much "sharper", BTW). Use cutting oil, or something like brake fliud or Marvel Mystery oil, liberally, when cutting. PM me, if you're interested. As Heckke says, ammo will make a difference- even WWB should be a bit more consistant than Wolf, etc..