WD-40 for maintenance? - Page 5

Torrid · May 27th, 2009, 12:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by edr9x23super

I use WD-40 to help clean dirty guns because of its solvent qualities, but I think of it like this: A gun, especially a pump or semi-auto has reciprocating parts like an engine. Would you run WD-40 in your cars' engine?

I use gallons of WD-40 myself on all kinds of things, but I only use it to clean my guns and wipe them down. For lubricating I use Castrol Syntech.

You use engine oil for your guns? I use Castrol Syntec German formula in my GTO, but I used Spec 308 and Spec 357 on my Glock. 308 for the slide rails and a drop of 357 to rub down the outside of the barrel and the inside of the slide. A total of two small drops of the 357 and 308.

SC Tiger · June 23rd, 2009, 12:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sheepdog

I've never used it on guns, always heard it left something sticky behind. I noted in the Wiki entry it mentions that. I see that the main components are mineral spirits-which I use to clean up really filthy guns-and mineral oil, which is a much lighter lubricant that I would want to run in a high round count gun or that I trust to stay on a holster gun. But, for light stuff, like maybe .22s, maybe it would be okay. But again, the whole "sticky residue" puts me off.
If it works for you, then it's okay for you...hard to argue with that.

I was told by a gunsmith that it leaves a residue on a gun that will cause problems in areas like the trigger group. I'd use something made for the purpose like Essox (sp?) - slickest stuff known to man.

automatic slim · June 23rd, 2009, 01:30 PM

If you read Wikipedia's article on WD-40, you will find that of all it's intended purposes listed, firearms maintainence is not one of them. It was intended to be a water displacing penetrating lubricant, which it does well, too well. So well in fact, that I wouldn't stake my life on it. With so many products designed specifically for guns, why use WD-40?

Brady · June 27th, 2009, 12:08 AM

WD40 will leave a residue and gum up if not cleaned completely out once in a while. Locksmiths worn against it for this reason. Perhaps your cleaning habits avoided this. Should you take a chance?...

I use Mobile 1 motor oil after reading about it in several different locations. It is slick stuff and is designed for heat and abuse. I could tell a definite difference right away. Cost effective too as you only need a drop at each lube point. A quart will last a long time and it won't 'run off' in short order like thinner oils sold just for guns. I used to spend a minute fortune on REM-OIL. I foresee the Mobile 1 lasting me at least a couple years.

TomChemEngin · July 4th, 2009, 08:04 PM

I'm in the camp of pgrass101, but I first use Hoppe's powder solvent, then WD-40 to pick up the remaining solvent and anything the solvent missed, then wipe it all down with Hoppe's gun oil. Of course, I like cleaning and tinkering with the pieces. I don't mind taking 15 minutes to do the multi-step process... some folks would consider this borderline obsessive-compulsive... haha.

June 23rd, 2009, 01:30 PM	#43
automatic slim Distinguished Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: The western edge of The Confederacy Posts: 1,222	If you read Wikipedia's article on WD-40, you will find that of all it's intended purposes listed, firearms maintainence is not one of them. It was intended to be a water displacing penetrating lubricant, which it does well, too well. So well in fact, that I wouldn't stake my life on it. With so many products designed specifically for guns, why use WD-40? __________________ "First gallant South Carolina nobly made the stand." Edge of Darkness

June 27th, 2009, 12:08 AM	#44
Brady Member Join Date: May 2008 Location: South Carolina Posts: 112	WD40 will leave a residue and gum up if not cleaned completely out once in a while. Locksmiths worn against it for this reason. Perhaps your cleaning habits avoided this. Should you take a chance?... I use Mobile 1 motor oil after reading about it in several different locations. It is slick stuff and is designed for heat and abuse. I could tell a definite difference right away. Cost effective too as you only need a drop at each lube point. A quart will last a long time and it won't 'run off' in short order like thinner oils sold just for guns. I used to spend a minute fortune on REM-OIL. I foresee the Mobile 1 lasting me at least a couple years. __________________ ...he that hath no sword, let him sell his garment, and buy one. Luke 22:36 USN; NRA; GOA - http://gunowners.org; GRGR-SC - http://www.scfirearms.org

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

July 4th, 2009, 08:04 PM	#45
TomChemEngin Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: Kennesaw, GA Posts: 22	I'm in the camp of pgrass101, but I first use Hoppe's powder solvent, then WD-40 to pick up the remaining solvent and anything the solvent missed, then wipe it all down with Hoppe's gun oil. Of course, I like cleaning and tinkering with the pieces. I don't mind taking 15 minutes to do the multi-step process... some folks would consider this borderline obsessive-compulsive... haha.