Gunsmoke16

Fastest way to clean dirt, grease, powder residue and cosmoline out (provided it isn't a plastic gun or a Beretta SS model- never use gun scrubber on-friend lost his finish & had to send back to factory) is Gun Scrubber. I refuse
to spend a fortune on this stuff though and just use $.99 spray carburetor cleaner. Test some on your hand first-it should NOT leave an oily residue. It will roll all the stuff out. Use an oiled plastic scrubber brush on the barrel & the standard military green toothbrush thing to clean the breach lockup points, etc. Note: after carb cleaner, there is 0 oil on the gun. Must re-oil it before touching with your hands (I like to use cotton gloves when cleaning or reloading. Ever load up about 1000rnds with lead bullets & get lead poisoned from contact handling? Not good-use the gloves.) Breakfree is good for general use, but I use Slick 50 in red spray can/black top (check auto stores) to wipe it down with as works better than any thing I have tried to keep rust from happening in damp environments. It will survive a trip in the rain with this stuff, along with plenty of handling. Any rust spots starting? After the carb CL hosedown, use a pencil eraser to remove it, retouch up with blue pen and the #2 lead pencil used to lead it really good. Wipe it down with gun oil. Note how lead disappears and blends perfect! Dunno exactly "what" the lead does, but an old gunsmith showed me this on heavy used shotguns and it really stops the rust. If it's handgun magazines, you can do the same and instead of oiling them, use carnauba car wax on them. Have tried this with the old .45 mags. Works well, don't rust and makes them really fast load/unloading. I usually disassemble to clean unless fired less than a mag, then just scrub it good with that plastic cleaning brush and put an oiled patch on it and drag it through, replacing them until very clean. Usually leave a thin layer of oil on all parts. The rails should be oiled at back, cycle it a few times to let the stuff run down them. The Brownell's piquettes (those little plastic bulb suckers with long skinny tips you can suck up some gun oil & put wherever) are really good for applying to the tricky spots. Make sure check the extractor for dirt/wear & the frame rails and frame itself for any cracking while apart.
Check springs, barrel ramp, hood (top inside where bullet enters) & crown (exit). Firing pin should be checked/removed/oiled periodically as powder residue & old oil will build up causing failure. Make sure not to use excessive
oil as it can soak into your ammo primers and cause a failure. Wet weather
workers should get sealed ammo (like Sellior & Bellot) or buy their own primer
sealer & treat their ammo to prevent moisture failure at primer pocket/bullet. Good Luck, Happy Shooting.

ripley16

I treat with Militec 1 prior to shooting. After shooting, I clean with Hoppes, brush and patches, appy a thin coat of Militec to the outside with a patch or Q-tip, and run a lightly coated patch through the barrel. I wipe down the ramp, then reassemble.

Rails get TW25b.
Other little parts get Zero Friction from a needle oiler.
Inside of the slide gets rubbed with Militec 1.

TapRackBang

Clean my firearms with gunzilla, Put a light coat on moving parts and I'm done.

__________________
"Arms in the hands of individual citizens may be used at individual discretion..in private self defense." John Adams

mosouthpaw

i found that veterinary syringes with needles make great cheap oilers. each gun cleans different, so cleaning and oiling depends on the gun.

Mountaineer

I keep reading about Gunzilla. It sounds like fabulous stuff. I really like it's low toxicity and the fact that it's plant based.

Does it really do a good enough job cleaning? Can you clean the bore with it? Other than grease for the slide, is it the only thing you need, or do you need other products?

Thanks!
-M

automatic slim

Clean with Blue Wonder, run a few clean patches through, then run a lightly oiled
patch, followed by a clean patch. This is on a stainless steel gun.

__________________
"First gallant South Carolina nobly made the stand."
Edge of Darkness

Ohio Rusty

I take everything down, clean with a good gun cleaner (usually Hoppes), give moving contact parts a light oiling (Ox-Yoke Best Dam Gunoil) and I wipe the outside down with a light coating of RIG gun grease to protect the metal parts from rust from moisture.
Ohio Rusty ><>

V65magnafan

Glock: CLP the action and let it sit while I clean the barrel with CLP, brass brush and swabs.

When the barrel is clean, swab and Q-tip out the excess CLP from the action. Place a drop of oil on each slide rail and let the slide sit on end. Gravity does the rest.
Reassemble.

1911: Same but give action a hit of CLP after cleaning. Oil moving parts. Keep it wet.

__________________
NRA 2AF GOA CSSA CASD IDPA

"The police cannot protect the citizen at this stage of our development, and they cannot even protect themselves in many cases. It is up to the private citizen to protect himself and his family, and this is not only acceptable, but mandatory." -Jeff Cooper

Siafu

I grease the rails with Lubriplate white grease. Oil the small pivot parts with Weapon Shield and wipe the poly frames down with a rag saturated with food grade silicone. On the rifles I use a sewing machine oil (I bought a gallon of it a few years ago and judging by my current rate of consumption I will be using the same gallon for the next 20 years or so). It is very thin and light but sticks to the parts nicely.

diverdown247

+1 It can be a little trial-and-error and depends on what type and model of firearm is being oiled.

For example, my XD gets oiled differently than my CZ P-07.