WD-40 for rust prevention? - Page 2

rocky · October 2nd, 2005, 09:06 PM

It does great at its indended purpose though- Water Displacement. I used it on my 12 Ga. after it went swimming last duck season. Just cleaned and oiled afterwards.

Jim_Linch · October 3rd, 2005, 03:33 AM

Would it work in a vacuum seal bag? Or does the vacuum alone do the trick for long storage?

P95Carry · October 3rd, 2005, 02:23 PM

I expect total vacuum would work Jim but that would assume no moisture retained I think. If a fresh silica gel pack put in bag before vacuum pulled then probably that might help.

Can't help wondering about that odd fingerprint on a blued surface, with no protection - whether it just might still attack - but then if no air I guess it'd be good.

Rob72 · October 3rd, 2005, 03:30 PM

If you were asking if WD-40 would work in a vacc bag, the answer is no. Although the "Dissolved Baggie Coating" might give Robar a run for their money.....

(Seriously, +1, on the dessicant pack, if you want to vacc your arms. A rub down with Tuf Cloth would be my first step...)

tanksoldier · October 3rd, 2005, 05:03 PM

WD-40 is water soluable, so when condensation comes along, the WD-40 is no help whatsoever.

We use WD-40 as an emergency machinegun lube and cleaner in the field. If the tank's M-2 or M-240's have been fired so much that carbon has built up and they are starting to have problems (basic load for the COAX is 10,000 rounds, with IIRC 7,000 of it in the ready bin)... it's something that you use in an emergency, and it's completly unauthorized (as are most field-expedient solutions) and it's certainly something I wouldn't leave on the weapon.

BlueLion · October 3rd, 2005, 05:54 PM

My 1911 is somewhat in hibernation in a zip lock, wiped it down in Breakfree CLP, took it out last night no problems. Trust, WD is best used to free up some bolts that are stuck when you are working on the car or oiling some hinges. It is not practical as a rust inhibitor. Trust, me. By the way 1911 has been stored for a few months now. I hope to shoot it soon.

gunthorp · October 3rd, 2005, 09:18 PM

On some important parts I've coated sealed fresh silica gel in ziplocks with the air pressed out. Rust can't form without moisture and air. Heat will refresh the gel. Some great suggestions in this thread! WD40

If the internals of a gun get wet, heat from a warm oven will evaporate off traces of moisture from the inner recesses better than trying to displace it IMHO. Be carefull of too much heat, it doesn't take much to do the job if left in the oven long enough.

Finger prints contain an acid that works even without air. Strange, the human body can create the most powerful corrosives and solvents in the finger tips? Go figgure. Even super glue eventually falls off when we shed. (It's true, I saw a snake lady at the fair once.)

Bumper · October 3rd, 2005, 09:48 PM

I use WD40 as a solvent to clean my guns. It does a great job of cutting carbon and old grease. I always wipe it off after cleaning, though. A light coat of gun oil in the appropriate areas and I am done. In a damper environment that might not work, but in Arizona moisture is not something we have a lot of. I have never had a spec of rust here on any of my guns....

October 3rd, 2005, 02:23 PM	#13
P95Carry Assistant Administrator Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: South West PA Posts: 25,339	I expect total vacuum would work Jim but that would assume no moisture retained I think. If a fresh silica gel pack put in bag before vacuum pulled then probably that might help. Can't help wondering about that odd fingerprint on a blued surface, with no protection - whether it just might still attack - but then if no air I guess it'd be good. __________________ Chris - P95 NRA Certified Instructor & NRA Life Member. "To own a gun and assume that you are armed is like owning a piano and assuming that you are a musician!." If a BG dies as the result of pointing a gun at me, then he has merely succumbed to an occupational hazard of being a thug

October 3rd, 2005, 05:03 PM	#15
tanksoldier Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Colorado Posts: 1,130	WD-40 is water soluable, so when condensation comes along, the WD-40 is no help whatsoever. We use WD-40 as an emergency machinegun lube and cleaner in the field. If the tank's M-2 or M-240's have been fired so much that carbon has built up and they are starting to have problems (basic load for the COAX is 10,000 rounds, with IIRC 7,000 of it in the ready bin)... it's something that you use in an emergency, and it's completly unauthorized (as are most field-expedient solutions) and it's certainly something I wouldn't leave on the weapon. __________________ "I am a Soldier. I fight where I am told, and I win where I fight." GEN George S. Patton, Jr. "Drive fast and eat cheese!"

October 3rd, 2005, 05:54 PM	#16
BlueLion Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: It Changes... Posts: 823	My 1911 is somewhat in hibernation in a zip lock, wiped it down in Breakfree CLP, took it out last night no problems. Trust, WD is best used to free up some bolts that are stuck when you are working on the car or oiling some hinges. It is not practical as a rust inhibitor. Trust, me. By the way 1911 has been stored for a few months now. I hope to shoot it soon. __________________ Listen, Think and React.....Nuff Said.....

October 3rd, 2005, 09:18 PM	#17
gunthorp Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Duluth MN Posts: 591	On some important parts I've coated sealed fresh silica gel in ziplocks with the air pressed out. Rust can't form without moisture and air. Heat will refresh the gel. Some great suggestions in this thread! WD40 If the internals of a gun get wet, heat from a warm oven will evaporate off traces of moisture from the inner recesses better than trying to displace it IMHO. Be carefull of too much heat, it doesn't take much to do the job if left in the oven long enough. Finger prints contain an acid that works even without air. Strange, the human body can create the most powerful corrosives and solvents in the finger tips? Go figgure. Even super glue eventually falls off when we shed. (It's true, I saw a snake lady at the fair once.) __________________ Don't dither. The nick of time comes just before the moment lost. Last edited by gunthorp; October 3rd, 2005 at 09:32 PM.

October 3rd, 2005, 09:48 PM	#18
Bumper Administrator Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Arizona Posts: 12,905	I use WD40 as a solvent to clean my guns. It does a great job of cutting carbon and old grease. I always wipe it off after cleaning, though. A light coat of gun oil in the appropriate areas and I am done. In a damper environment that might not work, but in Arizona moisture is not something we have a lot of. I have never had a spec of rust here on any of my guns.... __________________ Bumper Administrator DefensiveCarry.com Forum Coimhéad fearg fhear na foighde; Beware the anger of a patient man.

October 2nd, 2005, 09:06 PM	#11
rocky Senior Moderator Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: MI Posts: 11,124	It does great at its indended purpose though- Water Displacement. I used it on my 12 Ga. after it went swimming last duck season. Just cleaned and oiled afterwards.

October 3rd, 2005, 03:33 AM	#12
Jim_Linch Member Join Date: Apr 2005 Posts: 154	Would it work in a vacuum seal bag? Or does the vacuum alone do the trick for long storage?

October 3rd, 2005, 03:30 PM	#14
Rob72 VIP Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: OKC, OK Posts: 2,842	If you were asking if WD-40 would work in a vacc bag, the answer is no. Although the "Dissolved Baggie Coating" might give Robar a run for their money..... (Seriously, +1, on the dessicant pack, if you want to vacc your arms. A rub down with Tuf Cloth would be my first step...)

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