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#1 |
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Member
![]() Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Utah
Posts: 64
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What safe do you recommend?
What safe brand do you recommend? What brand do YOU consider to be the best out there and why?
Just asking since there is many,many safes brands out there and am just surfing the area.. Alan. |
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#2 |
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VIP Member
![]() Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,003
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Depends on what you want, and your living conditions.
Do you move alot? Live in an apartment? Rent? Own? Where will the safe be kept? Basement? Main floor? 2d story? How much are you willing to spend? ...just a few questions to consider
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Patriotic dissent is a luxury of those protected by better men than they Sacrifice: Congress thinks having to stay late to vote is sacrifice. Ask the Sailor, Soldier, Airman, or Marine meeting his child for the first time what sacrifice means martyr is a fancy name for crappy fighter |
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#3 |
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VIP Member
![]() Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Central Mississippi
Posts: 2,492
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I was shopping for safes a couple of years ago. The owner of a local shop was telling me about some of the big name brand safes and said that if for some reason the lock failed to work that you had to ship the entire safe back to the manufacturer to have it opened and repaired. I am not to comfortable shipping all my guns to China where most of these safes are made. The safe I settled on was a Liberty. They have people here locally that will come to your house to open and repair it. The prices are good and the quality is great. It is also made in the U.S.A. here is a link to there website.
Liberty Safe for Gun Safes and Home Safes.
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HK P2000 .40 BENELLI NOVA
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#4 |
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Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Nassau, NY(Long Island)
Posts: 956
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I have several guadall safes and would use nothing else. Anything bought at lowes and home depot is not worth the money, except if you have small children at home. Gardall Premium Quality Safes If anybody is in the NYC area and wishes a standard safe. I have access to they at wholesale prices but must be picked up Brooklyn NY send me a PM
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#5 |
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Senior Moderator
![]() Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: The Old Dominion
Posts: 4,467
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Company website:
Cannon Safe - Quality Home and Gun Safes - Safes: Traditional Series Safe you need: http://cannonsafecom.nxg.superpagesh...ditional54.jpg If you don't get this one then don't bother. It does anything you need for storage. It looks good (get green). The warranty is top notch. One of the mods here had hers attacked and the BGs didn't get into it, plus Cannon fixed it for her under warranty. Cannon Safe - Quality Home and Gun Safes - About Us Moving them is a snap. I use one finger and it's done. They go exactly where I want them as well. All it takes is the proper phone number and application of money. Keep in mind if you can call up a couple guys and have them help you move your safe for pizza and beer, than a criminal can do the same. Get a big heavy safe and bolt that sucker down. Just remember money should be no object when it comes to your guns and also securing your guns. If you got at it with that attitude, then it is all good. Look around the Cannon website and you'll see why it is the only safe to consider. BTW I have owned Liberty and Champion safes. Cannon safes are the only ones I'll buy now. No I don't work for them or get any kick backs, just a satisfied customer.
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Obamamessiah... Let the miracles begin!!! |
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#6 |
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VIP Member
![]() Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Oregon USA
Posts: 6,021
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Are you going to expect it to withstand any and all burglary attempts? I consider a safe purchase as buying time only. Any safe can be broken into, in time, though at a certain level you can pretty much write off the amateur burglar as not being able to open it or steal it for later opening. Not all steel is created the same. Some models by some manufacturers have special "tool" steels, ball bearings, tool-resistant plats or other layering done that makes it far tougher to break into. I consider anything less than ~1500 lbs (at 60x30x30" size) as being the low end of what's necessary to withstand a concerted attack, but that's just me.
Does it need to survive a fire? Consider the range of temperatures often suggested as the "average" heat of a house fire. Do you want just the average handled, or more than that? If important, I'd consider a unit that the manufacturer backs as handling ~1800*F for at least 1-2hrs. What will be stored in there? Plastics, wood, metal, paper, true valuables [ie, expensive artifacts, jewelry]? Consider that paper begins to fry at just over 300*F, that anything above 1000*F will damage some woods, most plastics, and that most "safe" manufacturers produce units supposedly designed to cover X number of minutes @ 1200*F. You'll need to decide what is sufficient, based on what you're going to put in there, where it will be sitting, what additional protection/monitoring you'll have, what your fire dept's response time is likely to be. Are you prepared to build a house around it, or will it need to be portable (via lift, hand truck)? Do you intend to ever move it, or will you be frequently moving? Or, are you willing to build one up, creating a sort of "bunker" of steel beams and panels, encased in reinforced structural concrete, with a suitable vault door? Will you be surrounding the safe with other layers of your defense? For example, will the house have a monitored burglar/fire alarm, special zones of the alarmed areas that are only open to certain alarm codes, dogs, etc? Any problem bolting it to the foundation of your home? What size? Is this a one-time purchase that must be large enough to grow into, or would you purchase another, more-suitable unit in the future? Can you get it into your home unbeknownst to anyone outside your home? A marked security truck/van divulges your secret, as does a small team of folks hefting a safe into doorways or down stairs. Is there a limit to the cost? New, I don't consider many boxes under $2000 USD as being safe, given the build quality and materials used. Which is why I'm a fan of tracking down a pre-owned unit. On occasion, you can find used units available, particularly if a long-standing business goes out of business, when you can find excellent units for a song. For example, I found my unit used for one-third of the new price. Replaced the lock, serviced the hinges/bolts, and voila. For a typical home system, I'm partial to Graffunder, American Security. There are plenty of other brands that folks seem more aware of (ie, Fort Knox, Liberty, Cannon, Sturdy Safe), and each of those makers builds tough units on the higher end of the lines, and often builds lesser units on the lower ends of the lines. If going the built-in route, consider Diebold and similar.
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Your best weapon is your brain. Don't leave home without it. ![]() Reports: CZ P01 pt1, pt2. Thoughts: Justifiable self defense. Explain: How does disarming victims reduce the number of victims? Tip: Use the <search> feature.
Last edited by ccw9mm; March 16th, 2008 at 11:55 AM. |
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#7 |
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Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Kansas
Posts: 796
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I currently have a Browning Medallion safe in the 60X40X28 size. My next safe will be one of these.
Hoss
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I ain't as good as I once was, but I'm as good once as I always was Kahr PM-9 / Sig P-245 / Para NiteHawg / Walther PPK / Beretta Tomcat / Ruger LCP BDA 380 / Taurus 85 / Kel-Tec PF-9 / Am. Derringer 357 / Sig Sauer 239 SAS / Walther PPS .40 NRA Life Member My Web Site |
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#8 |
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VIP Member
![]() Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 14,876
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I have two Browning safes...and I just consider them a way to slow down the criminal. I don't think someone is going to carry them away...and it would require preplanning (proper tools) to get into them.
It does provide a peace of mind when I'm away... Buy big...the first time!
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"That I cannot do." "Give this to, uh, Clemenza. I want reliable people, people who aren't going to be carried away. After all we're not murderers in spite of what this undertaker thinks." *********************************** NRA Life Member |
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#9 |
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Member
![]() Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: phx
Posts: 39
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I did research into this and just bought a safe. Basically, all the low end safes from any of the big name manufacturers are going to be about the same. They generally have 12 gauge steel bodies and anywhere from 12 ga-1/4" doors. Fire protection consists of several layers of drywall and a single Palusol door seal.
During my research I came across a photo of a liberty safe that had a big hole in the side which supposedly was done in a few minutes with an ax and/or sledgehammer. That made me want a safe with 1/4" plate. I looked into sportsman steel safes and took a tour of where they build them. I was impressed with how they put them together and their attention to detail. Everything is made by people, no robots like other safe companies. All seams are triple welded from the inside and ground smooth and bondo'd on the outside so that thieves can't find the seam easily. The screws that hold up the shelves are welded to the body and not just screwed into the drywall. In addition to the drywall, they can also use a ceramic material for further insulation and also use double Palusol door seals. They will also custom make the safe to your specifications...any size, any shape, any plate thickness. Having said all that, Cabelas was having a sale on their liberty safes so I got one of the low end models. Money talks, but if you have money to spend, look into sportsman steel. ![]() |
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#10 |
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Member
![]() Join Date: May 2006
Location: Among the living
Posts: 357
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I'm looking to order one from Sturdy, they use 7 or 8 guage steel, you can add fire-proofing if you want it, and they'll configure the interior in a number of different ways.
The prices are comparable to Patriot, Liberty and the rest. You can also save a few $$ if you pick it up at a local shipping depot and not have it delivered to your door........Now just need Uncle Sam to send me my refund!
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When Guns Are Outlawed, Only Outlaw's will have guns Just remember, when seconds count, help is mere minutes away Also remember when you go to trial by jury, you are putting yourself into the hands of 12 people, who weren't smart enough to get out of jury duty. |
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