Hardening your Home? - Page 2

G23NH · April 13th, 2009, 04:51 PM

I will be following this thread with iI am glad to see this posting. Thinking that I will be going with longer screws in all the exterior doors of my 1897 home.

By the way halfcrazy - do you have a solar barbie jeep?

Precision · April 13th, 2009, 06:03 PM

16+ inches of contained sand will stop most bullets. If you want to be sure, get a few milk jugs and fill them with sand, line them up and shoot them with a 7mm mag or a 300WSM. Use FMJ bullets or steel core surplus ammo for greater penetrating power and be surprised at how well sand (dirt) works at stopping the bullet.

The weak spot in your "armor" would be where the tires rest on each other.

My question is where are you going to get that many tires.

By my estimation, you would need about 550 tires to make a 80 foot long x 6 foot high wall and it would be UGLY. Ugly would most likely give your neighbor a code enforcement reason to have the municipality force you to remove it.

A better wall would be a double 4" thick monolithic slab (reinforced concrete) wall. Build a 2 foot deep flaired footer of cement with the monolitic poured walls 10 inches (interior dimensions) apart. Every 10' or so have the slab be completely solid for added stability. After the slabs cure, remove the forms and fill with 1/2 to 3/4" granite chips, tamp at 6" intervals. Once completely full, seal by bonding a cement cap or flagstone to the top.

This will stop almost any round. (no not 50BMG). 4 inches of reinforced cement - 10 inches of hard gravel - 4 more inches of reinforced cement

if you really want to make it strong, in addition to metal reinforcing the cement, use the cement with the fiberglass micro reinforcing rods in the mix.

But all of that is WAY too much work for a nutso neighbor. I'd move before I did all that.

However when I do build my next house, I plan on using the monolithic cement building technique (minus the gravel) for all external walls. They have foam based systems that provide the form and the insulation. 6" of reinforced cement provides amazing protection, besides the windows are the real weak point. Mylar lamination for them.

someone's ideas on the subject.

http://www.berzerker.net/jonboon/fre...ulletproof.pdf

United93 · April 13th, 2009, 06:39 PM

Thanks a lot for that link, Precision. Very interesting info.

halfcrazy · April 13th, 2009, 07:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by G23NH

By the way halfcrazy - do you have a solar barbie jeep?

nope my 4 year old does

halfcrazy · April 13th, 2009, 07:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Precision

16+ inches of contained sand will stop most bullets. If you want to be sure, get a few milk jugs and fill them with sand, line them up and shoot them with a 7mm mag or a 300WSM. Use FMJ bullets or steel core surplus ammo for greater penetrating power and be surprised at how well sand (dirt) works at stopping the bullet.

The weak spot in your "armor" would be where the tires rest on each other.

My question is where are you going to get that many tires.

By my estimation, you would need about 550 tires to make a 80 foot long x 6 foot high wall and it would be UGLY. Ugly would most likely give your neighbor a code enforcement reason to have the municipality force you to remove it.

A better wall would be a double 4" thick monolithic slab (reinforced concrete) wall. Build a 2 foot deep flaired footer of cement with the monolitic poured walls 10 inches (interior dimensions) apart. Every 10' or so have the slab be completely solid for added stability. After the slabs cure, remove the forms and fill with 1/2 to 3/4" granite chips, tamp at 6" intervals. Once completely full, seal by bonding a cement cap or flagstone to the top.

This will stop almost any round. (no not 50BMG). 4 inches of reinforced cement - 10 inches of hard gravel - 4 more inches of reinforced cement

if you really want to make it strong, in addition to metal reinforcing the cement, use the cement with the fiberglass micro reinforcing rods in the mix.

But all of that is WAY too much work for a nutso neighbor. I'd move before I did all that.

However when I do build my next house, I plan on using the monolithic cement building technique (minus the gravel) for all external walls. They have foam based systems that provide the form and the insulation. 6" of reinforced cement provides amazing protection, besides the windows are the real weak point. Mylar lamination for them.

someone's ideas on the subject.

http://www.berzerker.net/jonboon/fre...ulletproof.pdf

yep i have about a 30-40ft stretch where m house lines up with with his yard if that makes any sense i was going to stack the tires and screw stockade fence to my side and if he complained do the same to his side but they just arrested him again for posesion of explosives so i presume he will be gone for a while

Rock and Glock · April 13th, 2009, 08:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by G23NH

Thinking that I will be going with longer screws in all the exterior doors of my 1897 home.

Get 4.0 to 5.0", hardened! Not those whimpy ones that strip.

Atticus Rex · April 13th, 2009, 11:15 PM

My goal one day is to have one steel door frame and a solid door for the master bedroom, and mylar sheets on the master bedroom window. Buying 10 minutes of time and having your cell phone and whole family in your bedroom will get you far.

For the impending zombie invastion, I'd love to buy a pair of 40' cargo containers and bury them about 5 feet down, make secured and hidden air ducts for it, and link them with secure doors, fill them with food, water, ammo, and lots of zombie reading material in case they get in and feel like reading something after they eat our brains!

Gun Loving Liveral · April 14th, 2009, 12:46 AM

I put the longer screws on deadbolts and hinges and then made our bedroom tougher to get in by removing the flimsy interior door and putting up a metal-clad exterior door (just like the entry and exit doors). This door also has reinforced screws and a deadbolt. The bedroom is upstairs, so even if someone carefully breaks and enters a window they have to make considerable noise and take another minute or so. I keep a 12-ga. Mossburg pump near the bed.

yzcrasher · April 14th, 2009, 08:25 AM

We have a second floor condo, so windows (unless BG has ladders) are not really a problem. That leaves the main door. It is a metal door, with 2 deadbolts (one has no key on outside, so no picks), and the whimpy handle lock. For flooring we have tile (one sec). With all this we also have one of the "bars" that we wedge on the inside of the door against the floor. Honestly I'm not too worried about someone coming in through that door. Our condo is the safe room..

IronMike · April 14th, 2009, 10:36 PM

some things to help
Thorny bushes under windows.
Fiberglass reinforced panel(FRP)epoxied to the cheap luann doors used inside most houses.
big dogs

April 13th, 2009, 04:51 PM	#11
G23NH New Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Auburn NH Posts: 3	I will be following this thread with iI am glad to see this posting. Thinking that I will be going with longer screws in all the exterior doors of my 1897 home. By the way halfcrazy - do you have a solar barbie jeep? __________________ NRA Member

April 14th, 2009, 12:46 AM	#18
Gun Loving Liveral Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Bennington, Oklahoma Posts: 127	I put the longer screws on deadbolts and hinges and then made our bedroom tougher to get in by removing the flimsy interior door and putting up a metal-clad exterior door (just like the entry and exit doors). This door also has reinforced screws and a deadbolt. The bedroom is upstairs, so even if someone carefully breaks and enters a window they have to make considerable noise and take another minute or so. I keep a 12-ga. Mossburg pump near the bed. __________________ In Oklahoma, even we liberals like guns!

April 14th, 2009, 08:25 AM	#19
yzcrasher Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Texas Posts: 317	We have a second floor condo, so windows (unless BG has ladders) are not really a problem. That leaves the main door. It is a metal door, with 2 deadbolts (one has no key on outside, so no picks), and the whimpy handle lock. For flooring we have tile (one sec). With all this we also have one of the "bars" that we wedge on the inside of the door against the floor. Honestly I'm not too worried about someone coming in through that door. Our condo is the safe room.. __________________ ((Place funny, whitty comment here))

April 14th, 2009, 10:36 PM	#20
IronMike Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Eastern NC Posts: 200	some things to help Thorny bushes under windows. Fiberglass reinforced panel(FRP)epoxied to the cheap luann doors used inside most houses. big dogs __________________ NARFLE THE GARTHOK! 2 Ruger alaskan .454s Ruger P95 Rem 870 Barrett .50BMG

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April 13th, 2009, 06:03 PM	#12
Precision Member Join Date: May 2008 Location: florida Posts: 161	16+ inches of contained sand will stop most bullets. If you want to be sure, get a few milk jugs and fill them with sand, line them up and shoot them with a 7mm mag or a 300WSM. Use FMJ bullets or steel core surplus ammo for greater penetrating power and be surprised at how well sand (dirt) works at stopping the bullet. The weak spot in your "armor" would be where the tires rest on each other. My question is where are you going to get that many tires. By my estimation, you would need about 550 tires to make a 80 foot long x 6 foot high wall and it would be UGLY. Ugly would most likely give your neighbor a code enforcement reason to have the municipality force you to remove it. A better wall would be a double 4" thick monolithic slab (reinforced concrete) wall. Build a 2 foot deep flaired footer of cement with the monolitic poured walls 10 inches (interior dimensions) apart. Every 10' or so have the slab be completely solid for added stability. After the slabs cure, remove the forms and fill with 1/2 to 3/4" granite chips, tamp at 6" intervals. Once completely full, seal by bonding a cement cap or flagstone to the top. This will stop almost any round. (no not 50BMG). 4 inches of reinforced cement - 10 inches of hard gravel - 4 more inches of reinforced cement if you really want to make it strong, in addition to metal reinforcing the cement, use the cement with the fiberglass micro reinforcing rods in the mix. But all of that is WAY too much work for a nutso neighbor. I'd move before I did all that. However when I do build my next house, I plan on using the monolithic cement building technique (minus the gravel) for all external walls. They have foam based systems that provide the form and the insulation. 6" of reinforced cement provides amazing protection, besides the windows are the real weak point. Mylar lamination for them. someone's ideas on the subject. http://www.berzerker.net/jonboon/fre...ulletproof.pdf

April 13th, 2009, 06:39 PM	#13
United93 Ex Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Maine Posts: 912	Thanks a lot for that link, Precision. Very interesting info.

April 13th, 2009, 11:15 PM	#17
Atticus Rex New Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Hamilton, MT Posts: 8	My goal one day is to have one steel door frame and a solid door for the master bedroom, and mylar sheets on the master bedroom window. Buying 10 minutes of time and having your cell phone and whole family in your bedroom will get you far. For the impending zombie invastion, I'd love to buy a pair of 40' cargo containers and bury them about 5 feet down, make secured and hidden air ducts for it, and link them with secure doors, fill them with food, water, ammo, and lots of zombie reading material in case they get in and feel like reading something after they eat our brains!