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#31 |
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Distinguished Member
![]() Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Nassau, NY(Long Island)
Posts: 1,787
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I change the lowest glass panel of my rear door to a double pain with a glued lament so if somebody would break the panel and try to reach in looking for the key they will have a hard times breaking thru the glass.
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#32 |
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Member
![]() Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Seattle-ish
Posts: 214
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Look at this stuff: Madico Window Films
It is what I've considered for my French doors and first-floor windows. I've debated between film and polycarbonate for the window in my front door. CPL |
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#33 |
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Distinguished Member
![]() Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: MI
Posts: 1,704
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Just wanted to add my $.02.
Maybe one of the most missed items is a dead bolt. Handel locks are all but worthless. There are may other important items to consider, but dead bolts should be one of them.
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NRA Member S&W 642 (no-lock) with .38 Spl +P 135 GR Gold GDHP Glock G31 & G33 with .357 Sig 125 GR. SXT Winchester Ranger |
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#34 | |
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Member
![]() Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: PNW
Posts: 129
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Quote:
Don't think locks will keep anybody out that wants in. It will only discourage them a little. Ask yourself what it would take to keep out a SWAT team. You might think of Hesco barriers. ![]() Seriously you need to ask yourself the level of security desired and what you can afford. Not all buildings are easy to retrofit. Too many easy ways in and out. |
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#35 |
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Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Western, WA
Posts: 1,040
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here are some basic things:
Exterior lights. Motion detectors are good, clear visibility from the street- bad guys like to be hidden while entering and exiting. Dogs are a plus. Good neighbors who know what is normal for your house and are not afraid to call you or 911 if they see something strange. Thorny bushes. Peep hole. Don't forget the garage door and the garage to house door. Teach the other members of your household discipline on locking things, answering the door, closing garage door, turning alarms on... many "security improvements" do nothing because people don't use them! (A moat is useless if the guy operating the draw bridge is an idiot) Walk around your house and see how many ways you can break in. I bet I could find at least a dozen. Then improve those areas and repeat. It is very difficult to harden a home against invasion. You are better off trying to make yourself look like a poor target. A well lit, well kept, occupied house with thorny bushes, good visibility to the street, and the sprinklers on makes for a wet and prickly night for a BG. They will most likely just move onto next door. |
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#36 |
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Ex Member
![]() Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Maine
Posts: 912
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Thank you CPL.
Fred - The point of the thread was to ascertain what other members have done to harden their homes against intruders. I did not say anything about my own efforts nor did I ask for advice as to what to do. Apparently you have taken the path of least resistance when it comes to HD. That is a mistake that can cost you your life. ----------------------------------------------------- My goals for my future home are: concrete walls, steel doors, shatter-resistant windows, possibly steel shutters, and a good alarm/surveillance system. A perimeter fence with sensors will encircle the property, and a remote-activated gate will adorn the entrance to the driveway. In addition, there will be a 'safe' room which will provide yet another layer of defense. All that will not be to keep out trained assassins with demolition and my demise on their minds. However, it will give me time to prepare in case of a serious attack, and it will, in all likelyhood, discourage any theives (especially since the house will be small and modest-looking). Comments, criticism, advice, recommendations, etc. are welcome. |
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#37 | |
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Distinguished Member
![]() Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Nassau, NY(Long Island)
Posts: 1,787
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Quote:
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#38 |
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Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Waponi Woo
Posts: 931
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You guys would love where I live. I have a minimum of 10 inches of steel reinforced concrete and 3 foot of dirt on 5 out of 6 sides my the house. That includes the garage. the house itself is sectioned off into 4 areas, the garage, the family living area, the utility room and extra bedrooms and the master bedroom/bath. Each section has an 8 inch reinforced concrete divider/support wall with a steel fire door leading to each section. The main entrance has a small foyer that has the same steel doors on both the outer and inner doors.
The only weak points are the sliding glass door in the master bedroom, and the large skylight in the living area. If I were to own it, I'd take that sliding glass door out and put some other sort of door that is more secure. That door has to be there to make the second exit from the house.
__________________
Unreasonable men are ever unreasonable, and only become more so when threatened. Truth always threatens the false-hearted. |
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#39 |
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Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 769
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You can actually just talk to any professional tinter who does residential and commercial buildings if you're interested. The film they use does have some strength to it, and since its applied to the window, it should provide a bit of additional shatter resistance to the window. Obviously, its hard to get any type of window that will seriously stop anyone (except maybe unattractive burglar bars, or those plastic windows they have), but it could help those people who just smash and run.
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#40 |
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Member
![]() Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Las Vegas, Nevada
Posts: 39
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I've found most older side sliding windows can be taken out easily by just lifting them up and out of the track even when the window is closed. Put a few screws into the track just above the slider side and the window can't be lifted out. Sliding glass doors have the same vulnerability.
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Nevada CFP Utah CFP |
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