nedrgr21

I like my Olight T10.1 CR123. 5 light levels (190lm(1hr), 85lm(3hrs), 38lm(8hrs), 15lm, 20hrs), 6lm(50hrs) SOS: 190lm for 3 hrs 17lm for 40 hrs ), strobe, SOS, comes on at the last level used, small enuf that I carry it everywhere. For $15 you can get a AA body for it.

SteveinNEPA

Agreed on the 80lumen minimum - My EDC is 115 and I also have a streamlight that is 120 for the bedside.

-Steve

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BETTER TO BE TRIED BY 12 THAN CARRIED BY 6
Hesitation kills faster than a bullet.
If your head is up your %*$ you are unaware of danger. You are in the perfect position to kiss it goodbye.

Chooie

For indoor use, between 50 and 200 (no more, probably no more than 120). For outdoor use in open areas, 120 to infinity. For general EDC, I like something in the 120 to 200 range, with the option of a lower mode around 40-60 lumens to extend battery life, and a really, REALLY low mode to preserve night vision (anywhere from 0.07 to 3 lumens depending on the light I have with me).

More important than the amount of light is the shape of it - a 60 lumen beam focused into a tight spot may be a better searchlight than a 200 lumen flood beam, because it can project further. Most of my lights are biased toward good throw (a tight, bright spot) and sacrifice a bit on the spillbeam (dimmer peripheral vision illumination), but I just ordered a new Malkoff M60WF dropin for my Surefire C2, since they're on sale right now. That should give a nice, full room lighting wall of light (think a Surefire L4 on steroids, with the nice color of an incandescent).

I can't wait!

For what it's worth, here's a list of my current lights/EDC candidates:

Ra Clicky Tactical - 140 lumens, strobe, multi level
Ra Twisty - 85 lumens, red low, multi level - pretty much a backup, non-tactical light
Surefire 6P with CREE XR-E R2 dropin - 200+ lumens, tight spot beam
Surefire C2 with Malkoff M60WF dropin - 170 lumens, warm "wall of light" (floody beam)
Bitz - 100 or so lumens, beautiful smooth flood with a large hotspot and upgraded warm emitter
Nitecore D10 - 130 or so lumens, fully adjustable from 3 to 130 lumens
Surefire/VTAC L4 - 120 lumens, slightly wider spot than R2 dropin but still very throwy

Notice that all of these other than the Ra Twisty and Bitz have momentary capability, as well as a click or twist for constant on. Lights without a momentary function, such as the Ra Twisty and Bitz, as well as many lights from Fenix, Olight, 4Sevens, etc. (that are not marketed as the "tactical" models) have reverse clicky type switches. This means that when you click the switch to turn the light on, you do not get light until you release the switch. A forward clicky switch (like on the Surefire L4) gives light before the switch latches to constant on - letting you gently press on the switch for momentary light, and release the switch when you want to extinguish the light. This is a desirable trait in a "tactical" light, since leaving a light on constantly gives your position away.

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-Joe

Quando omni flunkus, moritati.

Virginia Citizens Defense League

Rustburg, VA Volunteer Rescue Squad

MP45Man

What makes these lights so expensive?

kpw

Mostly the name but quality does have an impact. I have a number of Ultrafire and Cree brand chinese E-Bay lights (supposed 200+ lumens) that were all under $30. They are better than their price but maybe not the quality of Surefire or Streamlight. I have no complaints with them, they've held up very well and are stingy on battery use. They are much brighter than need be for indoor use but they are excellent outdoors with narrower intense beams. I also have a G2 and a 6P Surefires that I haven't converted yet. I like the wider beam and the 65 lumens for indoor use. I don't get any flash from walls and such. I usually carry my G2 for those reasons.

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"In a republic this rule ought to be observed: that the majority should not have the predominant power." -
-- Marcus Tullius Cicero

SIXTO

I go against the grain here. I say that they can be to bright, especially if its intended use is in doors. Remember that the light out put can and will affect your vision too. I'd rather have a 80 or even 65 lum light that has a properly focused beam than a 120 nuke pocket torch when indoors or close quarters.

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| SIXTO EXPRESS---| ||'|";,__.
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"(@)'(@)""""*|(@)(@)******(@)

Blackeagle

Agreed. Keep in mind that flashlights are bullet magnets. The best way to employ them in most cases is going to be to briefly illuminate the target to ID it, then turn the light off, move, and shoot the threat using ambient light. If your light is powerful enough that the reflection off a white-painted wall messes up your night vision, those extra lumens may end up hurting more than they help.

orangevol

I too am looking for a good tactical type flashlight and am a little confused about LED vs incandescent? Is one better than the other? What are the pros and cons of each?

Thanks

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Jackle1886

LED's use FAR less power than incandescents. They will last longer, somewhere over 10,000 hours of use per led, compared to whatever a regular bulb is. I'd go with LED all the way, they last longer, use less power, and are less prone to breaking.

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Better to die on your feet, than to live on your knees.

zacii

I've got a Surefire G2 and I like it alot. I think that it's just 60 lumens, but it's bright to me. When I check on my kids at night I point it to the floor and it seems to light up the entire room. I also use it to investigate chickenknappers at night ;)

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Trust in God and keep your powder dry


Superduper Snubbie Thread

Why 1911?