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Reloading DefensiveCarry.com accepts no liability for reloading information posted by members. It is down to the individual posting to ensure safe standards and to readers to verify what they read - it is they finally who bear responsibility for useage of information. Remember - typos can occur!
We strongly recommend that in most cases quoted loads be derived from recognized loading manuals and if possible these should be referenced. Where loads do not have back-up reference data available, for instance with use of an unusual powder, then posters are asked to please detail their method for establishing their data. Irresponsible publishing of unsubstantiated ''guestimated'' data is deprecated and may be heavily moderated.

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Old November 7th, 2006, 10:13 PM   #1
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Cast Lead Reloads for the Glock 23

Last summer I worked up some cast lead loads for my Glock 23.

Attachment 3319

Gun: Glock 23 with a KKM Precision barrel.
Bullet: Tennessee Valley 180 gr TCFM cast lead.
Powder: 6.0 grains of Accurate #5
Primer: CCI 500 small pistol.
Brass: Used Speer.
Bullet Seat: 28.00mm
Velocity: 830 fps over my old Pro-Tach chronograph.
Dies: RCBS
Press: Dillon 550 (one of the first made)

This load also shoots well in my Glock 27 w/KKM Precision barrel. Velocity is somewhat slower in the G27. This load groups well in both guns and has low recoil.

The only problem is this is a dirty powder and each round fired would leave unburned powder. It also smoked lots and after a hundred round the gun was a dirty mess.

So this week I loaded up 300 rounds of the same load. Instead using the CCI 500 primer and I went with Winchester magnum pistol primer, # WSPM. I felt the magnum primer would burn the powder better.

Took 176 rounds to the range to conduct the test, (rode the motorcycle and left the chronograph at home). What I found out is with the magnum primer I had no more unburned powder. Still had the smoke and a dirty gun, but no unburned powder. The recoil now was like factory ammo.

Next step is to run the rest of the loads across the chronograph to check the different between the standard and magnum primers.

Warning,,,,,,this load data has been tested in my guns only. If you use this load data you must conduct your own proper safety tests. This load data is intended to be used as a reference. Each individual handloader must
determine what is the best and safest load for their equipment.

Combat Carry is not responsible for this load data.

Frankmako is not responsible for this load data, except in my guns.

Do not shoot cast lead bullets and/or any reloads in the factory Glock .40 cal barrel. (That why I use the KKM barrels for cast lead bullets and/or FMJ/HP reloads.) Glock factory .40 cal barrels do not fully support the case and the KKM barrels do. Do not shoot any cast lead loads in any factory Glock barrels, they are not made for cast lead.

Last edited by frankmako; December 10th, 2006 at 10:09 PM.
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Old November 7th, 2006, 10:19 PM   #2
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ya need to post a warning about load data and it is safe in your gun etc etc there is a post that has it here some where it is required on all loading data

Also that combat carry is not responsible for any of your load data

also a warning not to use lead in a standard glock barrel
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Old November 7th, 2006, 11:51 PM   #3
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From what I understood, you were not suppose to use mag. primers in no mag. guns. Try some diffrent powders if it isn't burning clean.
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Old November 8th, 2006, 12:05 AM   #4
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I agree with rocky i would not be using mag primers in non mag loads different powder is called for
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Old November 8th, 2006, 12:08 AM   #5
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Personally , I have found unique smokes bad and leaves residue. Titegroup seems alot better. I'm sure Bud , P95 and others can chime in with other good suggestions for powder to try.
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Old November 8th, 2006, 07:55 AM   #6
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I don't see how using a mag primer in any load would hurt the burning process. Yeah,ya gotta cut back a little on the charge to keep the pressures to a safe level.

Rocky, please explain the "mag primers in no mag guns' thing.

I use CCI 250's,350's,450's,and Fed.215's,in everything that I load. Never a problem. This,while cutting back on the powder charge by 1/10 to 3/10 grain in most loads. Sometimes more with the Fed.215's. --------
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Old November 8th, 2006, 10:01 AM   #7
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I cant say for a 40 for sure but titegroup should be pretty clean even unique has become a lot cleaner in its new form
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Old November 8th, 2006, 12:42 PM   #8
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My understanding from reading reloading manuals was to Never use magnum primers in non magnum caliber cartridges. Reasoning being, magnum primers burn faster/ hotter= increased pressure.
titegroup thru my .40 cal. seems to burn clean and not smoke much.
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Old November 8th, 2006, 02:38 PM   #9
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i have worked up some .40 cal loads with titegroup and you are all correct, titegroup is a cleaner powder. the reason that i went with #5was i got a deal on 50 plus pounds of it last year. i have been using #5 in .40, 9mm, and 45acp. i am down to approximately 5 pounds of #5 and when it is gone i will either go back to titegroup and other brands that i have found to work well. in the past i have used magnum primers (over standard primers) in several different pistol and rifle loads (never had a problem). this was the first time that i have used them in a .40cal load. the chronograph will tell the full story, but the new magnum primers reloads feel like factory speer gold dot loads.
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Old November 8th, 2006, 02:43 PM   #10
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do as you wish, but I would be especially careful deviating from know specs for .40 S&W.
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