Reload equpment shopping time!

General Geoff · March 17th, 2007, 02:26 PM

So instead of splurging on a new Smith 460V right off the bat, I've decided to take a more pro-active approach to my hobby, and hopefully reduce running costs. Thus I've decided to purchase some reloading equipment. Right now here's what I've got.

Lee Loadmaster press w/.308 Winchester dies

Case collater

Loadbooks USA .308 Winchester manual

As you could probably tell, I'm gonna try my hand at reloading .308 Winchester first, so I can actually shoot my M1A instead of letting it collect dust due to the surplus shortage. Just out of curiosity however, are there any other reloading manuals that have info for 7.62x51mm NATO? I know the specs are slightly different than .308, and I know the weapon will chamber/fire either, but I was just wondering. And yes I know for future reference to separate 7.62 brass from commercial .308 brass (7.62 is thicker, and has smaller interior case dimensions).

I'd imagine the reloading dies and such will work for both .308 and 7.62, but if they don't, it'd be great if someone chimed in on that.

I'll also point out that if this goes successfully, I'll start reloading .40S&W, and maybe a few other calibers too.

Don't have a clue on powder, primers or anything of that sort as I have no idea what kinds to get yet. But I'm sure I'll learn.

P95Carry · March 17th, 2007, 03:09 PM

Get more load books if you can .... Richard Lee's 2nd reload manual, Speer #13 and Lyman #47 (#48 is latest but not liked by some). Then too download some PDF files from some powder makers on line. A search on Amazon and ebay might turn up some reload books for you.

My thinking with the .308 dies is ... they'll do fine because, while I can put a .308 Win thru any mil chambered rifle ... the reverse is not true IMO.

Good to separate brass - and also if you can lay hands on any Lapua .308 cases, grab 'em - they are IMO the best brass. Try and check out also the freebore in your gun ......... so as to get the COL set up to optimum.

Bud White · March 17th, 2007, 03:18 PM

as chris said more load books and the lyman 47 48 thing is right find 47 has lot more info

i will say on press you probley wont stick with it if you go whole hog dillon is a good choice though expensive in the begining

General Geoff · March 17th, 2007, 03:31 PM

I picked that press because it's (A) cheap and (B) if I decide to upgrade to a dillon later, I have a friend who will probably buy it from me. :D

edit; if you really think the dillons are better, could you give me some reasons? I don't mind spending a couple hundred bucks more on a piece of equipment that will serve me for years.

A1C Lickey · March 17th, 2007, 03:42 PM

I don't mean to hijack your thread General Geoff, but why do people think that the #47 Lyman book is better? I've been looking but all I can ever find is the #48.

rocky · March 17th, 2007, 05:03 PM

US mil brass needs a special deprimer if I remember correctly.

Redneck Repairs · March 17th, 2007, 05:12 PM

No rocky it doesnt , lol but you need to lube the cases good , and be prepaired to break deprimer pins if you dont set them in the shellholder just right . pins are cheap tho to gain the use of brass .

Edited to add :

http://abcyber.org/bob/manuals/Hodgd...s%20Manual.pdf

http://abcyber.org/bob/manuals/Winch...s%20Manual.pdf

the two i have upped so far that may help you if you care to download and print them .

Captain Crunch · March 17th, 2007, 05:15 PM

Since you're reloading for your M1A, you might consider swapping your standard resizing die for a small base resizing die. Standard dies often will not resize a case enough for reliable functioning in a self-loader.

Bud White · March 17th, 2007, 05:37 PM

lot more info in 47 and in 48 they really really cut back on some of the loads

P95Carry · March 17th, 2007, 05:51 PM

Bob - I had thought some Berdan milsurp cases still around - which of course WILL break pins!!

Even tho with boxer primed, the (usually) three point crimp makes decapping difficult, after which a bit of pocket rim reaming gets rid of what is left.

March 17th, 2007, 03:09 PM	#2
P95Carry Assistant Administrator Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: South West PA Posts: 25,366	Get more load books if you can .... Richard Lee's 2nd reload manual, Speer #13 and Lyman #47 (#48 is latest but not liked by some). Then too download some PDF files from some powder makers on line. A search on Amazon and ebay might turn up some reload books for you. My thinking with the .308 dies is ... they'll do fine because, while I can put a .308 Win thru any mil chambered rifle ... the reverse is not true IMO. Good to separate brass - and also if you can lay hands on any Lapua .308 cases, grab 'em - they are IMO the best brass. Try and check out also the freebore in your gun ......... so as to get the COL set up to optimum. __________________ Chris - P95 NRA Certified Instructor & NRA Life Member. "To own a gun and assume that you are armed is like owning a piano and assuming that you are a musician!." If a BG dies as the result of pointing a gun at me, then he has merely succumbed to an occupational hazard of being a thug

March 17th, 2007, 03:42 PM	#5
A1C Lickey Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Luke AFB, AZ Posts: 707	I don't mean to hijack your thread General Geoff, but why do people think that the #47 Lyman book is better? I've been looking but all I can ever find is the #48. __________________ SSgt. Lickey It takes a college degree to break'em; and a high school education to fix'em!

March 17th, 2007, 05:03 PM	#6
rocky Senior Moderator Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: MI Posts: 11,768	US mil brass needs a special deprimer if I remember correctly. __________________ "In matters of style, swim with the current; in matters of principle, stand like a rock." Thomas Jefferson Nemo Me Impune Lacesset Link to my kydex builds:http://rocknloadkydex.blogspot.com/

March 17th, 2007, 05:15 PM	#8
Captain Crunch Senior Moderator Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Montana, The Treasure State Posts: 6,786	Since you're reloading for your M1A, you might consider swapping your standard resizing die for a small base resizing die. Standard dies often will not resize a case enough for reliable functioning in a self-loader. __________________ Memo to the President: I'll keep my guns, money & freedom... You can keep the "change!" Terry

March 17th, 2007, 05:51 PM	#10
P95Carry Assistant Administrator Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: South West PA Posts: 25,366	Bob - I had thought some Berdan milsurp cases still around - which of course WILL break pins!! Even tho with boxer primed, the (usually) three point crimp makes decapping difficult, after which a bit of pocket rim reaming gets rid of what is left. __________________ Chris - P95 NRA Certified Instructor & NRA Life Member. "To own a gun and assume that you are armed is like owning a piano and assuming that you are a musician!." If a BG dies as the result of pointing a gun at me, then he has merely succumbed to an occupational hazard of being a thug

March 17th, 2007, 02:26 PM	#1
General Geoff Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Allentown, Pennsylvania Posts: 354	Reload equpment shopping time! So instead of splurging on a new Smith 460V right off the bat, I've decided to take a more pro-active approach to my hobby, and hopefully reduce running costs. Thus I've decided to purchase some reloading equipment. Right now here's what I've got. Lee Loadmaster press w/.308 Winchester dies Case collater Loadbooks USA .308 Winchester manual As you could probably tell, I'm gonna try my hand at reloading .308 Winchester first, so I can actually shoot my M1A instead of letting it collect dust due to the surplus shortage. Just out of curiosity however, are there any other reloading manuals that have info for 7.62x51mm NATO? I know the specs are slightly different than .308, and I know the weapon will chamber/fire either, but I was just wondering. And yes I know for future reference to separate 7.62 brass from commercial .308 brass (7.62 is thicker, and has smaller interior case dimensions). I'd imagine the reloading dies and such will work for both .308 and 7.62, but if they don't, it'd be great if someone chimed in on that. I'll also point out that if this goes successfully, I'll start reloading .40S&W, and maybe a few other calibers too. Don't have a clue on powder, primers or anything of that sort as I have no idea what kinds to get yet. But I'm sure I'll learn. __________________ Discretion is the better part of valour; and a virtue beyond reproach. Pennsylvania Firearm Owners Association

March 17th, 2007, 03:18 PM	#3
Bud White VIP Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Elsewhere Posts: 17,476	as chris said more load books and the lyman 47 48 thing is right find 47 has lot more info i will say on press you probley wont stick with it if you go whole hog dillon is a good choice though expensive in the begining

March 17th, 2007, 03:31 PM	#4
General Geoff Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Allentown, Pennsylvania Posts: 354	I picked that press because it's (A) cheap and (B) if I decide to upgrade to a dillon later, I have a friend who will probably buy it from me. :D edit; if you really think the dillons are better, could you give me some reasons? I don't mind spending a couple hundred bucks more on a piece of equipment that will serve me for years. __________________ Discretion is the better part of valour; and a virtue beyond reproach. Pennsylvania Firearm Owners Association

March 17th, 2007, 05:12 PM	#7
Redneck Repairs VIP Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Colorado Posts: 5,141	No rocky it doesnt , lol but you need to lube the cases good , and be prepaired to break deprimer pins if you dont set them in the shellholder just right . pins are cheap tho to gain the use of brass . Edited to add : http://abcyber.org/bob/manuals/Hodgd...s%20Manual.pdf http://abcyber.org/bob/manuals/Winch...s%20Manual.pdf the two i have upped so far that may help you if you care to download and print them .

March 17th, 2007, 05:37 PM	#9
Bud White VIP Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Elsewhere Posts: 17,476	lot more info in 47 and in 48 they really really cut back on some of the loads

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