Reloading 101 (ish!)

P95Carry · May 24th, 2007, 07:56 PM

We have some questions on reloading in another thread .. and I have been making a few notes recently to provide some odd hints for folks .......... this is incomplete and biased toward my use of Lee equipment.

So - really no more than a few considerations ..... please feel free to add any info from experience.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Reloading 101 - handgun ammo primarily.

Here are a few thoughts on reloading - mostly born thru the time I have been doing this. It is far from definitive or comprehensive and no doubt people will add to it. The comments are based on my own use of Lee equipment ...... turret presses for handgun ammo - usually single stage for rifle. Dillon users probably can skip some of this.

First and foremost - anyone starting on reloading - get and read books!! Plus also if possible visit a shooting buddy who reloads and learn some stuff that way. Dean A. Grennell's "ABC's of Reloading" is a good start - old book but still valid. Then obtain all load data possible, some of which is in PDF form online. Books - Lyman #47 is good and better than later #48. Speer #13 is useful and also Richard Lee's 2nd Edition "Modern Reloading".

Majority of things I'll mention are actually more useage ''wrinkles'' that I have found over time plus of course some safety angles and general information - most 'usual' stuff is in good books. No particular order here.

Always wear eye protection.!!

Never load to max initially ........ start 10% below max and work up, until both gun cycling (on semi's) and accuracy peak out. It is rarely necessary or by default, better to use max loads.

Keep case flare to a minimum at stage two when powder charging ....... as long as bullet will sit straight atop the case ready for seating it should be enough - plus too enough to prevent lead shaving on cast bullets.

Do not operate ram to excessive speed when bullet seating - very fast can lead to a degree of ''inertial'' over seating, which on high pressure rounds can/will alter peak pressures.

Crimp to suit caliber and load, as well as bullet design. Roll crimp for revolver rounds and taper crimp for semi's. A 38 spl light load will retain the bullet almost entirely by case tension after sizing and so need minimal crimp - the .357 Mag however benefits from a fairly generous roll crimp - both the avoid bullets creeping under recoil and, providing a small extra time for a slow powder to fully burn. More crimp however work hardens the brass and so reduces case life.

If a semi case such as .45acp or 9mm is properly sized, the neck tension will provide most bullet grip - a small taper crimp is more to negate any (slight) flair used pre seating, remembering that these cases headspace on the case mouth ....... excessive taper crimp will only risk bullet deformation.

Tungsten dies are worth the slight extra cost - they allow for not having to lube cases with parallel format - for example the 38/357's, the 9mm's and .45 acp's. However when cases get larger and even longer (example is 45-70), lube is desirable to avoid sticking . I favor Hornady ''One Shot'' spray as it leaves minimal residue - however I have also used ATF oil on a pad too.

Beware the double charge!!!! And the zero charge too! It is useful to have good overhead light and even a small mirror set up to see inside long cases. The risk is small with large charges of slower powder in for example .357's - they fill the case well. However small target charges of fast powders like Bullseye are hard to see and a double charge over pressure can break a gun! If using a Lee turret in fact it is almost impossible to go wrong as, when flairing and with an auto disk hopper, you only get one powder drop so unless the hopper runs dry you get one charge.

Distractive reloading. Do not let the rhythm become too automatic and try not to stop when interrupted in the middle of a sequence. If unsure what you did last - break that incomplete cycle and start over.

If you recap a primer inverted - slowly ease it out thru the sizing die for the decapping pin to operate, and then recap. Some may choose not to do this but the energy required to initiate a primer is considerable . gentle pressure will not. Eye protection however is still a barrier, should a primer go off. Never happened to me yet in 30 years!

Do not bother trying to reload aluminum or steel cases ..... it can be done with steel but could trash decent dies .. the aluminum is not ductile enough to risk using again. Be a (sensible) brass bandit!

A site/forum worth a visit for those starting or new to reloading is - http://www.reloadbench.com/

Miggy · May 24th, 2007, 10:30 PM

Hodgdon has a great site for reloading data for its powders.

If you doubt a case (feels funky, might be cracked, etc) dispose of it. It is not worth the risk.

Quote:

Distractive reloading. Do not let the rhythm become too automatic and try not to stop when interrupted in the middle of a sequence. If unsure what you did last - break that incomplete cycle and start over.

Take a 5 minute break every 100 rounds. Get up, stretch, have a sip of water or soda or whatever refreshes you (No booze!) and then get back to reloading. If you feel your mind still wondering after a break, stop for an hour or for the day. We really don't want to see a post of you showing pictures your precious gun's barrel blasted by a double charge alongside with the injuries you sustained or questions about how to get the bullet out of the barrel after a squib.

P95Carry · May 24th, 2007, 10:34 PM

Good recommendation Miggy thx - yes Hodgdon is good.

True also - don't push cases too far ..... in fact most often, certainly with 38 and 357, a mouth small split is obvious and also prevents a good crimp. Not worth over economizing - gotta say tho I used to get close to 20 reloads outa my old (powder puff) target 38 loads.

Yes indeed too - a break is good. I am lucky that my bench is opposite side of room so - load some, come and check puter - then resume later. Too much sustained concentration can lead to problems.

rocky · May 24th, 2007, 10:40 PM

Also , Get a bullet puller. You will need one , especially starting out.

P95Carry · May 24th, 2007, 10:50 PM

True Rocky indeed so.

At least - get an inertial bullet puller - plastic ''hammer'' with a collet inside screw cap - and whack the heck outa the cartridge!

Worth too for more high volume reloaders ....... bullet pulling collets which are cal specific - forget where I got mine now.

HotGuns · May 24th, 2007, 10:53 PM

Quote:

At least - get an inertial bullet puller - plastic ''hammer'' with a collet inside screw cap - and whack the heck outa the cartridge!

Yeah...I'm on my third one now...

P95Carry · May 24th, 2007, 11:04 PM

Quote:

Yeah...I'm on my third one now...

Shucks - you gotta have been doin a lotta pullin

I still use mine from early days - it must be at least 25 years old

Called IIRC ''Kinetic Bullet Puller''. Mind you - how it has dealt with repeated blows on my anvil I do not know - but it has!

Miggy · May 24th, 2007, 11:32 PM

Clean & polish your brass. It is amazing the amount of crud that ends up in your press with badly clean brass.

When you are done reloading, clean your table and put everything away in its respective place/cases/tubs/jars. It makes it easy to set up nex time.

Don't trust your memory! Keep a notebook with all the combinations and charges. What primer with wat case with what bullet with what powder in what charge. ALWAYS refer to that notebook if you have a prefered combination.

Shadowsbane · May 24th, 2007, 11:39 PM

So I have to ask, on average, about how much does it cost to set up a small to medium reloading station? not counting brass

P95Carry · May 24th, 2007, 11:40 PM

Miggy - you are on a roll!

Yep - I agree with cleaning brass - mostly. I do tho find sometimes that nickle plated 38 cases will stay clean enough for a few reloads. I also recommend tumbling/cleaning before repriming ... as I have had media get trapped in primer flash hole before now.

Another cleaning tip - folks - separate 9mm's, .45acp's and 40 cal's before tumbling!!! They happen to fit inside each other way too well making for a pain when separating later.

As for notes - most surely yes ....... record all load data in a lil book - and so find that load from way back you'd otherwise forgotten about.

May 24th, 2007, 10:34 PM	#3
P95Carry Assistant Administrator Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: South West PA Posts: 25,366	Good recommendation Miggy thx - yes Hodgdon is good. True also - don't push cases too far ..... in fact most often, certainly with 38 and 357, a mouth small split is obvious and also prevents a good crimp. Not worth over economizing - gotta say tho I used to get close to 20 reloads outa my old (powder puff) target 38 loads. Yes indeed too - a break is good. I am lucky that my bench is opposite side of room so - load some, come and check puter - then resume later. Too much sustained concentration can lead to problems. __________________ Chris - P95 NRA Certified Instructor & NRA Life Member. "To own a gun and assume that you are armed is like owning a piano and assuming that you are a musician!." If a BG dies as the result of pointing a gun at me, then he has merely succumbed to an occupational hazard of being a thug

May 24th, 2007, 10:50 PM	#5
P95Carry Assistant Administrator Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: South West PA Posts: 25,366	True Rocky indeed so. At least - get an inertial bullet puller - plastic ''hammer'' with a collet inside screw cap - and whack the heck outa the cartridge! Worth too for more high volume reloaders ....... bullet pulling collets which are cal specific - forget where I got mine now. __________________ Chris - P95 NRA Certified Instructor & NRA Life Member. "To own a gun and assume that you are armed is like owning a piano and assuming that you are a musician!." If a BG dies as the result of pointing a gun at me, then he has merely succumbed to an occupational hazard of being a thug

May 24th, 2007, 11:32 PM	#8
Miggy Moderator Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Miami-Dade, FL Posts: 4,545	Clean & polish your brass. It is amazing the amount of crud that ends up in your press with badly clean brass. When you are done reloading, clean your table and put everything away in its respective place/cases/tubs/jars. It makes it easy to set up nex time. Don't trust your memory! Keep a notebook with all the combinations and charges. What primer with wat case with what bullet with what powder in what charge. ALWAYS refer to that notebook if you have a prefered combination. __________________ You have to make the shot when fire is smoking, people are screaming, dogs are barking, kids are crying and sirens are coming. Randy Cain. GunFreeZone.net

May 24th, 2007, 11:39 PM	#9
Shadowsbane Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: North Carolina Posts: 593	So I have to ask, on average, about how much does it cost to set up a small to medium reloading station? not counting brass __________________ Now, we must all fear evil men. But there is another kind of evil which we must fear most, and that is the indifference of good men.

May 24th, 2007, 11:40 PM	#10
P95Carry Assistant Administrator Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: South West PA Posts: 25,366	Miggy - you are on a roll! Yep - I agree with cleaning brass - mostly. I do tho find sometimes that nickle plated 38 cases will stay clean enough for a few reloads. I also recommend tumbling/cleaning before repriming ... as I have had media get trapped in primer flash hole before now. Another cleaning tip - folks - separate 9mm's, .45acp's and 40 cal's before tumbling!!! They happen to fit inside each other way too well making for a pain when separating later. As for notes - most surely yes ....... record all load data in a lil book - and so find that load from way back you'd otherwise forgotten about. __________________ Chris - P95 NRA Certified Instructor & NRA Life Member. "To own a gun and assume that you are armed is like owning a piano and assuming that you are a musician!." If a BG dies as the result of pointing a gun at me, then he has merely succumbed to an occupational hazard of being a thug

May 24th, 2007, 07:56 PM	#1
P95Carry Assistant Administrator Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: South West PA Posts: 25,366	Reloading 101 (ish!) We have some questions on reloading in another thread .. and I have been making a few notes recently to provide some odd hints for folks .......... this is incomplete and biased toward my use of Lee equipment. So - really no more than a few considerations ..... please feel free to add any info from experience. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Reloading 101 - handgun ammo primarily. Here are a few thoughts on reloading - mostly born thru the time I have been doing this. It is far from definitive or comprehensive and no doubt people will add to it. The comments are based on my own use of Lee equipment ...... turret presses for handgun ammo - usually single stage for rifle. Dillon users probably can skip some of this. First and foremost - anyone starting on reloading - get and read books!! Plus also if possible visit a shooting buddy who reloads and learn some stuff that way. Dean A. Grennell's "ABC's of Reloading" is a good start - old book but still valid. Then obtain all load data possible, some of which is in PDF form online. Books - Lyman #47 is good and better than later #48. Speer #13 is useful and also Richard Lee's 2nd Edition "Modern Reloading". Majority of things I'll mention are actually more useage ''wrinkles'' that I have found over time plus of course some safety angles and general information - most 'usual' stuff is in good books. No particular order here. Always wear eye protection.!! Never load to max initially ........ start 10% below max and work up, until both gun cycling (on semi's) and accuracy peak out. It is rarely necessary or by default, better to use max loads. Keep case flare to a minimum at stage two when powder charging ....... as long as bullet will sit straight atop the case ready for seating it should be enough - plus too enough to prevent lead shaving on cast bullets. Do not operate ram to excessive speed when bullet seating - very fast can lead to a degree of ''inertial'' over seating, which on high pressure rounds can/will alter peak pressures. Crimp to suit caliber and load, as well as bullet design. Roll crimp for revolver rounds and taper crimp for semi's. A 38 spl light load will retain the bullet almost entirely by case tension after sizing and so need minimal crimp - the .357 Mag however benefits from a fairly generous roll crimp - both the avoid bullets creeping under recoil and, providing a small extra time for a slow powder to fully burn. More crimp however work hardens the brass and so reduces case life. If a semi case such as .45acp or 9mm is properly sized, the neck tension will provide most bullet grip - a small taper crimp is more to negate any (slight) flair used pre seating, remembering that these cases headspace on the case mouth ....... excessive taper crimp will only risk bullet deformation. Tungsten dies are worth the slight extra cost - they allow for not having to lube cases with parallel format - for example the 38/357's, the 9mm's and .45 acp's. However when cases get larger and even longer (example is 45-70), lube is desirable to avoid sticking . I favor Hornady ''One Shot'' spray as it leaves minimal residue - however I have also used ATF oil on a pad too. Beware the double charge!!!! And the zero charge too! It is useful to have good overhead light and even a small mirror set up to see inside long cases. The risk is small with large charges of slower powder in for example .357's - they fill the case well. However small target charges of fast powders like Bullseye are hard to see and a double charge over pressure can break a gun! If using a Lee turret in fact it is almost impossible to go wrong as, when flairing and with an auto disk hopper, you only get one powder drop so unless the hopper runs dry you get one charge. Distractive reloading. Do not let the rhythm become too automatic and try not to stop when interrupted in the middle of a sequence. If unsure what you did last - break that incomplete cycle and start over. If you recap a primer inverted - slowly ease it out thru the sizing die for the decapping pin to operate, and then recap. Some may choose not to do this but the energy required to initiate a primer is considerable . gentle pressure will not. Eye protection however is still a barrier, should a primer go off. Never happened to me yet in 30 years! Do not bother trying to reload aluminum or steel cases ..... it can be done with steel but could trash decent dies .. the aluminum is not ductile enough to risk using again. Be a (sensible) brass bandit! A site/forum worth a visit for those starting or new to reloading is - http://www.reloadbench.com/ __________________ Chris - P95 NRA Certified Instructor & NRA Life Member. "To own a gun and assume that you are armed is like owning a piano and assuming that you are a musician!." If a BG dies as the result of pointing a gun at me, then he has merely succumbed to an occupational hazard of being a thug

May 24th, 2007, 10:40 PM	#4
rocky Senior Moderator Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: MI Posts: 11,768	Also , Get a bullet puller. You will need one , especially starting out. __________________ "In matters of style, swim with the current; in matters of principle, stand like a rock." Thomas Jefferson Nemo Me Impune Lacesset Link to my kydex builds:http://rocknloadkydex.blogspot.com/

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