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Reloading DefensiveCarry.com accepts no liability for reloading information posted by members. It is down to the individual posting to ensure safe standards and to readers to verify what they read - it is they finally who bear responsibility for useage of information. Remember - typos can occur!
We strongly recommend that in most cases quoted loads be derived from recognized loading manuals and if possible these should be referenced. Where loads do not have back-up reference data available, for instance with use of an unusual powder, then posters are asked to please detail their method for establishing their data. Irresponsible publishing of unsubstantiated ''guestimated'' data is deprecated and may be heavily moderated.

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Old January 6th, 2008, 03:37 AM   #11
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Sounds like bullet casting is up your alley.
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Old January 6th, 2008, 08:52 PM   #12
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hehe. yea. i do enough of it at school and work.
im sure ill get into it soon enough.
actually, i just made my first few rounds last night. finally got my 9mm dies in the mail. cant wait to try em out.
(i have made plenty of .45 and such, but they werent MINE. theres a diff)
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Old January 6th, 2008, 08:58 PM   #13
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Question for friesepferd: I heard stories that nickel-plated cases will crack much faster than regular brass ones. Is it a rumor or is it true?
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Old January 6th, 2008, 09:17 PM   #14
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Rumor. I use a lot of nickel brass in 10mm. They have seen over a dozen full power loads with no chipping or splitting.
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Old January 6th, 2008, 09:19 PM   #15
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Thanks Tubmeister!
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Old January 6th, 2008, 11:11 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Miggy View Post
Question for friesepferd: I heard stories that nickel-plated cases will crack much faster than regular brass ones. Is it a rumor or is it true?
yea, i cant see nickel plating causing cracks much faster. maybe ever so slightly, but i doubt enough that you would notice.
there are much greater factors going into to it. that would be a minor one.
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Old January 6th, 2008, 11:45 PM   #17
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Some nicke plated cases crack more than others.

I quit using them just for that reason, there was no comparison to the all brass cases.

The worst offender seems to be the .357 mag. Also noticable on .45 ACP.

As for annnealing the cases, it is best done in low light so that you can tell when the case turns a dull red. When its that color you just tip it over into the water. Works well.

Some cases need it more than others. I've never bothered with the pistol brass but as already stated, some of the harder to get stuff could benefit from it after being reloaded several times. I usually only do it with the harder to get milsurp stuff. I'll keep shooting it till the necks start splitting and then I'll anneal the whole lot of them. That will make it good for several more reloads. When they start splitting again, I anneal them again. It works.

The thing is though, that if the brass is pretty common, I wont bother with annealing, I'll just get new brass and be done with it.
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Old January 13th, 2008, 01:44 AM   #18
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Annealing normal every day cheap pistol cases is really of no value. The cost to replace brass compared to the trouble of annealing them does not make it worth while. Where annealing really comes into play is with brass that's not economical to just replace. I shoot black powder cartridge rifles and when cases cost upward to $2.00 each you anneal them to keep them from splitting. It also increase accuracy due to more consistent neck tensions and more uniform bullet release. Here's a good overview of annealing and a annealing machine video for those interested.

The Art and Science of Annealing
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Old January 13th, 2008, 03:10 AM   #19
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That is a great article and definatley worth the read.
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