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Old January 12th, 2008, 08:53 PM   #31
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Natty Bumpo
I can't explain it, but I've solved many a missfeed and/or ejection problem with a slide buffer. Currently using one from Wilson Combat, but there are others. They're usually less that $5 for a 10 or 12 pack.

I did read your comment that the problem replicates if you short-shuck the slide manually, but the buffer is a cheap try.

FYI, I have a Kimber Pro as well, and it is pickier than others I've owned...but not as picky as yours!! Currently shooting 200gr Rainier HPs over 3.5 gr Bullseye, WLP primer, whatever brass my fingers grab first - no function problems, easy on the hands, very accurate. I have made no modifications other than adding the buffer. And I have never (in 12 years of reloading) trimmed .45acp brass. Have you tried another set/brand of dies?
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Old January 12th, 2008, 09:00 PM   #32
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JEFFBUZZZ
no thats the only die's i have for 45,the shock buf did'nt cause any probs wasnt to tight in there for it
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Old January 12th, 2008, 10:32 PM   #33
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You are not supposed to use shock buffers with a FLGR 1911.

I have a Pro Carry 10mm with a 22# spring. It will feed anything I give it. From 135gr at 1.250" to my custom cast 230gr SWC at 1.275".
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Old January 13th, 2008, 12:19 AM   #34
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Just sharing my experience...for what it's worth. I've used them with FLGRs and without and on several occasions, they have solved feed/eject problems. Like I said, can't explain it, just works my observation.

Tubby, do you feel it causes an unsafe condition? If so, then no brainer!
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Old January 13th, 2008, 12:48 AM   #35
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ding ding ding i got it ,,,,,,,,,,,,i was'nt putting enough bell on the case ,so when i put the bullit in it was rolling lead up at the end of the case ,it was so uniform i could not see it ...thanks guys for all the input
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Old January 13th, 2008, 01:21 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Natty Bumpo View Post
Just sharing my experience...for what it's worth. I've used them with FLGRs and without and on several occasions, they have solved feed/eject problems. Like I said, can't explain it, just works my observation.

Tubby, do you feel it causes an unsafe condition? If so, then no brainer!
Wolff recommends against their use with FLGRs, so does Kimber, so does Wilson, so does EGW, so does Tubby45. I think shock buffs are a way to get $6 out of a gun owner. It wasn't designed to have a shock buffer in it so there shouldn't be one in there.

My perspective is that they are a waste of money. Woff recommends against them for safety reasons. I suspect it has more to do with reliability issues than with any recoil effects.

My RIA had a battery failure all the time. Hesitation more like. Bad. Opened it up and saw a chewed up shock buff in there. Tossed it, been running fine ever since with loads ranging from light 700fps target loads to heavy 45 Super loads pushing a 185gr to 1450fps. No frame battering issues after 8K rounds.
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Old January 13th, 2008, 10:06 AM   #37
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you can use shok buff with a full length guide rod and a lot of makers sell the buff with the flgr.. since i pitch the flgr in the trash its no issue to me but your not quite right on this one tubby..
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Old January 13th, 2008, 02:43 PM   #38
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Thank you, Jeff! Learn something new everyday!
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Old January 13th, 2008, 03:16 PM   #39
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Quote:
ding ding ding i got it ,,,,,,,,,,,,i was'nt putting enough bell on the case ,so when i put the bullit in it was rolling lead up at the end of the case ,it was so uniform i could not see it ...thanks guys for all the input
I've seen that before. A guy came into the gunshop with the same problems as yours. There were several veteran reloaders there and they all looked at the case.One of them was a proffesional reloader.

And they all missed it. It was so uniform that it was hard to spot. I found the condition only when I used a pair of calipers and gently slide them from the bottom of the case up to the mouth, where it showed that is was several thousanths difference from the rest of the case. It was just enough to prevent the slide from closing all the way.

The crimp die was crimping as far as it could with the small ring of lead on the case mouth...but it still wasnt enough and it was too big to chamber all of the way. That uniform ring of lead around it could sometimes be removed with a fingermail, sometimes not.

If you ever run into that problem again, use your calipers to measure the case by sliding the calipers gently over the whole length of it. What may not be apparent to the eye will be seen on the dial,or digital readout if thats what you have, and it will show you the few thousanths that is causing the problem.
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