SatCong

I use WSF, not bad.

dsonyay

Part of your problem to wanting a clean powder is using lead bullets. They are likely lubed with wax, and to me, this is the largest part of how my 45 gets dirty. I use W231 and shoot moly-coated bullets. I find that this is a relatively clean shooting combination. My friend uses Clay's and he says it is very clean burning.

Maybe you can try shooting these types of bullets or jacked types.

__________________
David
from LA

I have 5 guns.

JDBraddy

Exactly right, I've started loading .45 back around 1986, don't even want to guess how many thousands of rounds over the years, but as an IDPA/USPSA competator, I've tried lots of combinations, here's a few things I've learned.

For practice ammo, avoid the cheap soft cast lead, you'll spend more time scrubbing the lead out of your bore, and digging the lube and shavings out of your dies, than you will shooting. I've settled on the molly coated stuff like those from presision delta, it's almost as cheep as cast lead, and much cheeper than jacketed bullets, but just as clean to load an shoot, doesn't clog up your dies with excess lube or shavings, and doesn't lead your bore.

[quote=nuparadigm;648219]No offense, but I've never understood the debate over "dirty" and "cleaner" powders. My thought is that I'm going to clean my weapon anyway, so what does it matter.
[quote]

It depends on how much you shoot, If you blow fifty rounds during a range session twice a month, then don't worry about it. If you shoot 2000+ rounds a month and sometimes go a week or two between cleanings, then it matters bigtime! Fowling can litterally build up thick enough to flake like paint, preventing proper function.

As for powders, stick with a fast single base powder for practice and competition, I used Bullseye for years, then swiched to Clays, and now I use Solo-1000. I also use it in my 12ga target loads, so I buy it in 25lb kegs, It's half the price of VV powders, very fast and clean burning. 4.5gr behind a 230gr Precision RNF consistantly makes major in a 5" gun, so does 5.3gr behind a 200gr Precision RNF or 200gr Precision SWC.

For full power duty ammo, I load 8.0gr Unique behind a 200gr JHP. It gives me 1,160fps for 232 power factor. However, this is above the manufacturers reccomendation, so DO NOT start with this load. When working up a high pressure load, start about 10% below the manufacturer's reccomended maximum charge, and work up slowly, using only new brass and federal primers. Federal primers are softer and will show pressure sign before other primers will, once you have settled on a load that doesn't flatten the Federal primers, swich to whatever brand you like.

The biggest mistakes I see people make when handloading, is trying to load too short, or too long, and over crimping. I like to keep the OAL around 1.250-1.260 for most round nose and SWC designs, and rounds should measure .470-.472 at the crimp. These are the first measurements to check if your handloads arn't functioning well in your handgun.

SatCong

[quote=JDBraddy;658807]Exactly right, I've started loading .45 back around 1986, don't even want to guess how many thousands of rounds over the years, but as an IDPA/USPSA competator, I've tried lots of combinations, here's a few things I've learned.

For practice ammo, avoid the cheap soft cast lead, you'll spend more time scrubbing the lead out of your bore, and digging the lube and shavings out of your dies, than you will shooting. I've settled on the molly coated stuff like those from presision delta, it's almost as cheep as cast lead, and much cheeper than jacketed bullets, but just as clean to load an shoot, doesn't clog up your dies with excess lube or shavings, and doesn't lead your bore.

[quote=nuparadigm;648219]No offense, but I've never understood the debate over "dirty" and "cleaner" powders. My thought is that I'm going to clean my weapon anyway, so what does it matter.
Very well said.