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Old February 26th, 2008, 06:25 PM   #1
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Newb reloader questions

Hey all -

I'm a complete newbie to reloading but with the prices of ammo going up (again) and from what I understand there's another increase imminent, I think it's time to start making my own... I've been collecting brass for about the past year so I might as well put it to use.

I'd initially be reloading 9 mm and .45 ACP as those are the two calibers I and my shooting buddies shoot.

I'm thinking of buying one of those Lee Turret Press starter kits to get me started and a tumbler, etc.

Depending on who you read, you get different stories, so for auto handgun ammo:

1) Can you resize, reprime, drop powder, seat and crimp each round before moving on to the next one? It seems that's what a turret press really does but all the "tutorials" and books I've read say to clean, then resize all, reprime all, drop all powder, etc.

2) I shoot XD's and Glocks mostly, my dad has a 1911... what type of bullets work best? I want to avoid fouling as much as possible but want to keep the cost down as well. These are for paper targets only for now.

3) I understand that trimming cases isn't AS common when you're loading handgun casings. Is this true?

4) Are the Lee carbide resizing dies "full length?"

Thanks,
Andy
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Old February 26th, 2008, 06:57 PM   #2
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1) Yes. That is what the Lee Classic Turret press does. All four operations in sequence and you get one loaded round. Then keep doing that.

2) Plated is your best bet. Rainier is cheaper than Berry's. Great places to get components are in the sticky at the top of the forum page. tjconevera.com has great prices, MidwayUSA.com, Grafs.com, powdervalleyinc.com, and midsouthshooters.com are the ones I use the most. Lighter bullets are usually cheaper by a bit.

Lead is cheapest by far but to truly utilize it, an aftermarket barrel in a Glock is recommended. There is also some basic information that needs to be understood regarding lead alloy bullet use. I won't pursue this now, but will post a thread about shooting lead soon.

3) Yes. I've loaded tens of thousands of pistol ammunition and never once had to trim a case. There are certain things you do to rifle cases that you don't do to pistol cases: trim, deburr or chamfer, uniform primer pockets, deburr flashholes, clean primer pockets. On pistol brass it is a complete waste of time. Your brass will wear out or get lost long before you are going to trim it.

4) Yes. All sizing dies are full length sizing dies unless specifically stated as "neck sizing" or "neck sizer". Carbide dies have a carbide ring at the mouth. They don't require lube, although I still lube my pistol brass with carbide dies. Less effort to resize, less wear on the dies, less wear on the brass. Increases brass life and reduces operator fatigue.
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Old February 26th, 2008, 07:27 PM   #3
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May I suggest that Tubby be addressed from now on as Mr. Master Reloader?

Tubby, you really should write a tutorial/instructive for prospecting reloaders and have it placed in the How To section.
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Old February 26th, 2008, 08:00 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tubby45 View Post
1) Yes. That is what the Lee Classic Turret press does. All four operations in sequence and you get one loaded round. Then keep doing that.

2) Plated is your best bet. Rainier is cheaper than Berry's. Great places to get components are in the sticky at the top of the forum page. tjconevera.com has great prices, MidwayUSA.com, Grafs.com, powdervalleyinc.com, and midsouthshooters.com are the ones I use the most. Lighter bullets are usually cheaper by a bit.

Lead is cheapest by far but to truly utilize it, an aftermarket barrel in a Glock is recommended. There is also some basic information that needs to be understood regarding lead alloy bullet use. I won't pursue this now, but will post a thread about shooting lead soon.

3) Yes. I've loaded tens of thousands of pistol ammunition and never once had to trim a case. There are certain things you do to rifle cases that you don't do to pistol cases: trim, deburr or chamfer, uniform primer pockets, deburr flashholes, clean primer pockets. On pistol brass it is a complete waste of time. Your brass will wear out or get lost long before you are going to trim it.

4) Yes. All sizing dies are full length sizing dies unless specifically stated as "neck sizing" or "neck sizer". Carbide dies have a carbide ring at the mouth. They don't require lube, although I still lube my pistol brass with carbide dies. Less effort to resize, less wear on the dies, less wear on the brass. Increases brass life and reduces operator fatigue.
Thanks a million.

I look forward to your "lead" writeup.

Andy
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Old February 26th, 2008, 11:22 PM   #5
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started reloading in 1973 and been at it for a long time. if it was me the first thing i would do is to get several reloading books and read, read, and read some more. find some of the older books, they have the best information. you can find good infromation on the net. then i would look for some used equipment, i.e. single stage press, scales, powder drop, and dies. go with the carbide dies, they are easy to use over the non-carbide. i just don't like messing with lube (but i do on some cals). the reason i say to go with a single stage setup is that you are learning how to reload, not going for speed/max amount of rounds per hour. you can do that later. at the start it is a time to learn. as for bullets there are several sites on the net, just shop around, the shipping is the hardest part of the deal on bullets. i cast most of my bullets, but some times i buy from national bullet company and zero bullet company. do not shoot any cast lead in factory glock barrels, this is where the reading part comes in. some people do, but i don't. i use after market barrels for glocks (search this site for information). as ammo goes you can find some good deals on 9mm ammo, sometimes the deals work out cheaper over reloading it. but what do i know, i just setup the dillon to start loading some 9mm (going to do a run of 2,000 this weekend if the weather is bad). over time you can build a good setup of reloading equipment. but if you are like most that gets in this game, they will have somewhere around the house their first press,,, no matter what they are currently reloading on.
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Old February 27th, 2008, 09:24 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frankmako View Post
started reloading in 1973 and been at it for a long time. if it was me the first thing i would do is to get several reloading books and read, read, and read some more. find some of the older books, they have the best information. you can find good infromation on the net. then i would look for some used equipment, i.e. single stage press, scales, powder drop, and dies. go with the carbide dies, they are easy to use over the non-carbide. i just don't like messing with lube (but i do on some cals). the reason i say to go with a single stage setup is that you are learning how to reload, not going for speed/max amount of rounds per hour. you can do that later. at the start it is a time to learn. as for bullets there are several sites on the net, just shop around, the shipping is the hardest part of the deal on bullets. i cast most of my bullets, but some times i buy from national bullet company and zero bullet company. do not shoot any cast lead in factory glock barrels, this is where the reading part comes in. some people do, but i don't. i use after market barrels for glocks (search this site for information). as ammo goes you can find some good deals on 9mm ammo, sometimes the deals work out cheaper over reloading it. but what do i know, i just setup the dillon to start loading some 9mm (going to do a run of 2,000 this weekend if the weather is bad). over time you can build a good setup of reloading equipment. but if you are like most that gets in this game, they will have somewhere around the house their first press,,, no matter what they are currently reloading on.

Re: Single Stage: That's really why I'm looking at the Lee Turret press. I can use it as single stage until I get the hang of what's going on.

Andy
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Old February 27th, 2008, 11:16 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pitbull View Post
Re: Single Stage: That's really why I'm looking at the Lee Turret press. I can use it as single stage until I get the hang of what's going on.

Andy
I've spend quite a bit of time researching to make a decision about reloading and what to buy. I bought this set up from Kempf Gun Shop. I upgraded to the Auto Pro Powder Measure and the Thumler Tumbler. I don't like the Lee scale that comes with it. There is an electronic scale available for about $30. I ordered it but they are out of stock.

I ordered my kit in 9mm because that is what I shoot the most. Midway USA is having a sale on dies/turrets for the Lee Turret. I bought a set for .45 caliber so I can just pop things in and out.
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Old February 27th, 2008, 11:38 AM   #8
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I been reloading for about 3 years,I just bought a dillon 550 to go with a lee single press and a lee pro 1000 progressive,I make lead bullets for about a penny a piece from wheel weights started with a lee bottom pour pot and 6cavity tunble lube molds and now have a castmaster pot and star lubrisizer the castmaster and star set me back about $2000.00 but casts excellent bullets at the rate of 500-600 hr and will last the rest of my life.I have actually paid for m equipment in factory savings.I reload 45 acp for about 6.00 a hundred factory is over 32.00 hence i save at least 26.00 every 100 now i shoot over a 1000 a month hence about 260.00 savings just in 45 acp a month,i reload 9mm,40 s&w,44magnum,223 remington,.308,.380,38 super,357/38 so it pays in the end and i don't hafta order bullets and pay shipping costs.
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Old February 27th, 2008, 11:52 AM   #9
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I cast 800-1000 bullets per hour with a Lee 20# pot and 6 banger molds. My Star should be here this week. Been a while.
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Old February 27th, 2008, 08:38 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tubby45 View Post
1) Yes. That is what the Lee Classic Turret press does. All four operations in sequence and you get one loaded round. Then keep doing that.

2) Plated is your best bet. Rainier is cheaper than Berry's. Great places to get components are in the sticky at the top of the forum page. tjconevera.com has great prices, MidwayUSA.com, Grafs.com, powdervalleyinc.com, and midsouthshooters.com are the ones I use the most. Lighter bullets are usually cheaper by a bit.

Lead is cheapest by far but to truly utilize it, an aftermarket barrel in a Glock is recommended. There is also some basic information that needs to be understood regarding lead alloy bullet use. I won't pursue this now, but will post a thread about shooting lead soon.

3) Yes. I've loaded tens of thousands of pistol ammunition and never once had to trim a case. There are certain things you do to rifle cases that you don't do to pistol cases: trim, deburr or chamfer, uniform primer pockets, deburr flashholes, clean primer pockets. On pistol brass it is a complete waste of time. Your brass will wear out or get lost long before you are going to trim it.

4) Yes. All sizing dies are full length sizing dies unless specifically stated as "neck sizing" or "neck sizer". Carbide dies have a carbide ring at the mouth. They don't require lube, although I still lube my pistol brass with carbide dies. Less effort to resize, less wear on the dies, less wear on the brass. Increases brass life and reduces operator fatigue.
You can tell he's been reloading a long while..lots of good advice.
I would add (only been reloading a short while) but the best piece of equipment I bought that helped speed up the process was a digital scale-in this case I got a RCBS rangemaster 750 scale, save yourself the aggravation of a beam scale...
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