Lee Classic Turret Setup Problem-9mm dies

Pitmaster · March 2nd, 2008, 11:59 PM

I've been trying to set up my Lee Classic Turret for the past couple of weeks. I'm having a problem with bullets seating consistently in the case after they have been flared by the powder die. I've followed the instructions by screwing the die in until it hits the top of the case. Then backed it out the distance the instructions said. I've continued to back the die out to decrease the flare but the bullets get pushed in and the cartridge is too short. I've also played with my stroke and haven't been able to make any cartridges that are consistent. Most are too short. I've made 3 out of 30 or so that I felt safe to shoot and they shot okay.

I'm using WWB or Remington brass that I've been saving. Its been shot once. Current bullets I'm trying to use are Ranier 124 gr RN.

I've got a friend who reloads a lot and he came over once and we couldn't get it. He thinks the die may be bad.

Any suggestions?

HotGuns · March 3rd, 2008, 12:12 AM

Are you using the flaring die to seat the bullet?

The flaring die is meant to flare the case for the bullet. You should have another die with an adjustable stem that pushs the bullet into the case a certain depth.

Im not really clear here. Got any pics?

P95Carry · March 3rd, 2008, 12:54 AM

Hmmm - yes, if flare is set to minimum needed then next station should be ''seat and crimp". Does sound odd as you describe it!

In this last stage (unless you choose to use a factory crimp die) the inner section needs screwed in to point where bullet depth is what you want - and the die position itself will determine the taper crimp amount... getting set up takes a while but once done - all is easy.

G&G · March 7th, 2008, 01:38 AM

The Lee Classic Turret is a "4 stroke" system.

Your first dye removes the old primer while you load a new one. The new primer gets seated on the down stroke.

The second dye loads your powder charge and flares your case. Back off the large locking nut and adjust the flare until you get just enough to set your bullet in. Then set the locking nut.

The third dye sets your bullet depth. I load Rainier 124 RN at an OAL of 1.128.

The fourth dye sets your crimp. I crimp at .375

Hope that helps. Post or PM me if you have any more questions

polardaddy · March 7th, 2008, 05:54 AM

how tapered are your bullets? I ask because I had an xd 357. it is the 357 sig round and could only use the flat points to reload with. Is the bullet being shoved to far back into the case? One trick I have found is to take a factory made round set it in the die, back everything out first, then bring the lever down you should not feel any resistance. then turn by hand till it stops agaisnt the case neck and the bullet. then the rest of the adjustments should be minimal. unless I have missed the whole question.

Colin · March 7th, 2008, 09:53 PM

Somebody on another site posted pictures of the Lee turret plates being made with the threaded hole all wonky and out of line, you might want to check that they are straight. I like my classic press, but I change out the plastic rachet every 6 months or so, a tiny bit of silcone spray helps lube the turret plate also.

March 2nd, 2008, 11:59 PM	#1
Pitmaster Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Wherever there's fried chicken or barbecue Posts: 630	Lee Classic Turret Setup Problem-9mm dies I've been trying to set up my Lee Classic Turret for the past couple of weeks. I'm having a problem with bullets seating consistently in the case after they have been flared by the powder die. I've followed the instructions by screwing the die in until it hits the top of the case. Then backed it out the distance the instructions said. I've continued to back the die out to decrease the flare but the bullets get pushed in and the cartridge is too short. I've also played with my stroke and haven't been able to make any cartridges that are consistent. Most are too short. I've made 3 out of 30 or so that I felt safe to shoot and they shot okay. I'm using WWB or Remington brass that I've been saving. Its been shot once. Current bullets I'm trying to use are Ranier 124 gr RN. I've got a friend who reloads a lot and he came over once and we couldn't get it. He thinks the die may be bad. Any suggestions? __________________ Pitmaster HELGA: Where are you going? HAGAR: To sign a peace treaty with the King of England. HELGA: Then why take all those weapons? HAGAR: First we gotta negotiate...

March 3rd, 2008, 12:12 AM	#2
HotGuns Moderator Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Arkansas Posts: 5,184	Are you using the flaring die to seat the bullet? The flaring die is meant to flare the case for the bullet. You should have another die with an adjustable stem that pushs the bullet into the case a certain depth. Im not really clear here. Got any pics? __________________ AR. CHL Instr. To achieve world government, it is necessary to remove from the minds of men, their individualism, loyalty to family traditions, national patriotism, and religious dogmas.' Dr. G. Brock Chisolm

March 3rd, 2008, 12:54 AM	#3
P95Carry Assistant Administrator Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: South West PA Posts: 25,366	Hmmm - yes, if flare is set to minimum needed then next station should be ''seat and crimp". Does sound odd as you describe it! In this last stage (unless you choose to use a factory crimp die) the inner section needs screwed in to point where bullet depth is what you want - and the die position itself will determine the taper crimp amount... getting set up takes a while but once done - all is easy. __________________ Chris - P95 NRA Certified Instructor & NRA Life Member. "To own a gun and assume that you are armed is like owning a piano and assuming that you are a musician!." If a BG dies as the result of pointing a gun at me, then he has merely succumbed to an occupational hazard of being a thug

March 7th, 2008, 01:38 AM	#4
G&G Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Western Washington Posts: 76	The Lee Classic Turret is a "4 stroke" system. Your first dye removes the old primer while you load a new one. The new primer gets seated on the down stroke. The second dye loads your powder charge and flares your case. Back off the large locking nut and adjust the flare until you get just enough to set your bullet in. Then set the locking nut. The third dye sets your bullet depth. I load Rainier 124 RN at an OAL of 1.128. The fourth dye sets your crimp. I crimp at .375 Hope that helps. Post or PM me if you have any more questions __________________ Be ready. You can't make an appointment for an emergency.

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March 7th, 2008, 05:54 AM	#5
polardaddy Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Lacey, WA Posts: 70	how tapered are your bullets? I ask because I had an xd 357. it is the 357 sig round and could only use the flat points to reload with. Is the bullet being shoved to far back into the case? One trick I have found is to take a factory made round set it in the die, back everything out first, then bring the lever down you should not feel any resistance. then turn by hand till it stops agaisnt the case neck and the bullet. then the rest of the adjustments should be minimal. unless I have missed the whole question.

March 7th, 2008, 09:53 PM	#6
Colin Distinguished Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Vancouver Posts: 1,385	Somebody on another site posted pictures of the Lee turret plates being made with the threaded hole all wonky and out of line, you might want to check that they are straight. I like my classic press, but I change out the plastic rachet every 6 months or so, a tiny bit of silcone spray helps lube the turret plate also.