HotGuns

One way to measure if you dont have the tools...

Your die is a 7/8-14 TPI die...as all are.

That means that 1 rotation of the die will move it exactly .071 thousanths. Since you lock nut has 6 "flats" on it, moving it the length one flat will be .0118 or almost 12 thousanths.

Load a long bullet, coat it with black marker, run it through your action, letting the leverage of the bolt seat the bullet, pull the bullet out and put it in your press, and very gently turn the die down until it just touches the bullet. Now, turn it one more flat past that and it'll be about .012 off of the lands.

Recoat it again and run it through the action just to be sure. If the black on the bullet shows no rifling marks your are there.

BTW, dont use a live bullet to do this. No primer or powder is the way to go here. No sense making it more dangerous than it needs to be. When you are making a dummy bullet to check length, never, ever a use primer or powder.

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AR. CHL Instr.

To achieve world government, it is necessary to remove from the minds of men, their individualism, loyalty to family traditions, national patriotism, and religious dogmas.'
Dr. G. Brock Chisolm

Ram Rod

Indeed-you can use the chamber method (I'd go with the black magic marker), but if you feel resistance closing the bolt, I wouldn't force the issue. The lands may engrave the bullet a bit. As some have suggested--making sure the round fits the magazine is utmost important. (Why I love my Savage long action.) One added note about the lighter bullets available in your caliber. Lighter bullets are generally shorter than their heavier counterparts. Those lighter bullets when 'run out' toward the rifling, will not seat as deeply into the case neck! I can't remember where I heard or read about how much a bullet should seat into the cartridge neck, but I am thinking that the same diameter of the bullet was suggested. That is to say: .224 inches into the neck for the .224" bullet. I know-it seems like alot, but you want enough to maintain perfect alignment of the case/bullet as much as possible. My most difficult load to do that would be the 110gr hp in my .308. I think I have about .112" into the neck for my loading, but it's a solid base and not a boat tail. The term I was looking for the other day about the device that attaches to the caliper for the ogive measure would be 'comparator'. By the way--I loaded 3 different cartridges for my 22-250 before I ever fired the first round out of her. While I'll reload some of the factory brass cases, my loads are all made with nickel plated cases for durability.

__________________
RamRod-----sans remords

HotGuns

I used to use nickle cases but they tend to split much quicker than the brass ones. The nickle plating is brittle and it just wont take the working that the brass does. They do look good though.

__________________
AR. CHL Instr.

To achieve world government, it is necessary to remove from the minds of men, their individualism, loyalty to family traditions, national patriotism, and religious dogmas.'
Dr. G. Brock Chisolm

Ram Rod

Just as with functional/reliable pistols----looks are not our concern. My choice for the nickel cases is in the 22-250 only among my three reloading calibers. I neck size the virgin cases before loading, and only neck size for their useful life which in all likelihood won't see a fifth loading. I have also never crimped any of my cartridges, and have seen more neck splits in brass cases from being too thin on one side. I have yet to trim one of the nickel plated 22-250 cases after a third loading as they seem to hold their spec better than the brass cases. This is also something for the new reloader to consider in the future---a case length gauge and trimmer.

__________________
RamRod-----sans remords

HotGuns

Looks are my concern.
My stuff is beautiful. If it aint it gets chunked.
I have no use for ugly brass or ugly reloads.

I have had nickel cases split on the first shot. I used to buy them in bulk quantities because they were easier to find in the grass. After culling many of them at each reloading session, I finally went back to brass.

Actually, I would invest in a dial caliper first before I bought a case length gauge.

__________________
AR. CHL Instr.

To achieve world government, it is necessary to remove from the minds of men, their individualism, loyalty to family traditions, national patriotism, and religious dogmas.'
Dr. G. Brock Chisolm

Ram Rod

I figure since the OP has already concerned himself with the OAL measurements and such, it's assumed this instrument is already in play. Yeah---I know--'assumed'. ;)

__________________
RamRod-----sans remords

flagflyfish

I have a pair of good calipers and a case trimmer I also purchased a flashhole deburing tool for this operation. After sorting and weighing my brass, I full length sized the new brass. I also have a neck sizer for the 22-250, for fireformed cases. I haven't lookes into nickel cases as I really don't see a need for that kind of expendeture for cases. These are the loads supplied to me by the previous owner of the rifle, I have checked the load data for the ones that I am loading against the Lee book.


Here are a few loads that have done well in this rifle.

All with Winchester cases (Flash Hole debured, neck sized only, and
weight sorted to +/- .2gr), CCI BR-2 primers, and bullets seated to
2.0195" Case head to bullet ogive.

sierra 55 gr spitzer and 33.4gr of IMR 3031
Nosler 40 gr BT and 37.5gr IMR 4895
Nosler 55 gr BT and 35.2 gr Varget
Nosler 55 gr BT and 36.7 gr H380
Hornady 55 gr V-Max and 38.8 gr H414


and the top secret load.......

Sierra 55 gr Blitz and 35.5gr of Win 748

The one that I'm trying is the 55gr Nosler over 35.2 gr Varget, I had to go buy a trickler for loading these, and now I don't know how I got along for so many years without one!!!

The picture is how I understand bullet ogive, from right to left as the bullet fattens, the ogive is the point where the bullet meets the caliper. Correct? This pic was taken under magnification and with a little squinting I can see the meeting point. after marking the bullet, I measured the remaining portion, it measures .342, well within the seating parameters of .224.
I am a Finish carpenter by trade, (25yrs) I believe in buying the tools necessary to do the job perfectly.

Attached Images

bullet ogive.jpg (152.3 KB, 6 views)

__________________
"These are the times that try men's souls. The summer soldier
and the sunshine patriot will, in this crisis, shrink from the
service of his country; but he that stands it now, deserves the
love and thanks of man and woman."

-- Thomas Paine (The American Crisis, No. 1, 19 December 1776)

HotGuns

Not quite. The ogive is the curved part of the bullet.

Here is an explanation from Wikepedia..
"Click on this link for the full explanation and a diagram of the ogive.
http://http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ogive

__________________
AR. CHL Instr.

To achieve world government, it is necessary to remove from the minds of men, their individualism, loyalty to family traditions, national patriotism, and religious dogmas.'
Dr. G. Brock Chisolm