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Reloading DefensiveCarry.com accepts no liability for reloading information posted by members. It is down to the individual posting to ensure safe standards and to readers to verify what they read - it is they finally who bear responsibility for useage of information. Remember - typos can occur!
We strongly recommend that in most cases quoted loads be derived from recognized loading manuals and if possible these should be referenced. Where loads do not have back-up reference data available, for instance with use of an unusual powder, then posters are asked to please detail their method for establishing their data. Irresponsible publishing of unsubstantiated ''guestimated'' data is deprecated and may be heavily moderated.

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Old March 28th, 2008, 08:51 AM   #1
LastManOut
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Reloading "dummy" rounds

I've made up some dummy .38 rounds for practice with a dab of colored silicone in the primer pocket.

What I am hoping to find an answer to a way to color the cases to help designate them as the practice rounds. I don't believe paint would be the best option. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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Old March 28th, 2008, 12:42 PM   #2
QKShooter
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Available From Brownell's

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Old March 28th, 2008, 01:17 PM   #3
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Colored Sharpie maybe? Not sure how well it would hold up, but I mark the case heads to identify which were mine, and that's held up decently.
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Old March 28th, 2008, 04:30 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QKShooter View Post
Available From Brownell's

Thanks. That's what I was looking for.
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Old March 28th, 2008, 09:24 PM   #5
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I thought about doing the same , but for the price just went w/ snap caps.
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Old March 29th, 2008, 01:15 PM   #6
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I use old casings with the old primer left in, you can put a tiny piece of wood in to keep the bullet from sliding back in, I then drill the case so it's clear that it is a dummy round, generaly 3-4 holes is fine.
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Old April 1st, 2008, 12:11 PM   #7
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so that "brass black" stuff can be bought from any jewelry supplier of chemical supply house as well. They use it to add a patina to brass and make it black or antique. If you have any liver of sulphur lying around you can use that as well. Use common sense when you use it, glasses, ventalation, gloves...

here are some brass patina formulas:
Patina Formulas for Brass, Bronze and Copper
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Old April 7th, 2008, 06:48 PM   #8
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The cost of changing calibers in a progressive loader is quite a bit more expensive then with a single stage press or turret press. I started with a RCBS Rockchucker and back in the early 1980's got a progressive Universal machine. (Berdon copy) While it will load fast I only load .357 and 45 ACP on it. All my rifle calibers reloading is on the Rockchucker and I also use my Rockchucker for testing my lead for hardness with a Lee hardness tester. I also use a Belding and Mull powder measure with the Rockchucker which will not work with a progressive press. It's about the most accurate powder measure available. As someone else mentioned, working up loads is much easier with a single stage or turret press. Actually the turret press is about 1/2 way between a single stage and progressive press. You might look at that for your first press.
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