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Reloading DefensiveCarry.com accepts no liability for reloading information posted by members. It is down to the individual posting to ensure safe standards and to readers to verify what they read - it is they finally who bear responsibility for useage of information. Remember - typos can occur!
We strongly recommend that in most cases quoted loads be derived from recognized loading manuals and if possible these should be referenced. Where loads do not have back-up reference data available, for instance with use of an unusual powder, then posters are asked to please detail their method for establishing their data. Irresponsible publishing of unsubstantiated ''guestimated'' data is deprecated and may be heavily moderated.

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Old January 10th, 2009, 11:14 PM   #1
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How do you keep similar calibers apart?

I am building an AR in .204 Ruger and will reload shells for it as well as .223 for a different AR. I will be taking them for prairie dogs this summer and am worried about dropping a .204 in the .223 and vise versa. Any suggestions about marking etc? I haven't come across nickel cases in either .223 or .204. I wonder what could easily mark the case and not allow for mixups. Any help would be appreciated.

Any tips for loading .204 Ruger would also be appreciated.
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Old January 11th, 2009, 12:08 AM   #2
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Separate containers of different color , or a large bright color code for your reloaded ammo is always a good idea.
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Old January 11th, 2009, 11:54 AM   #3
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Yep, use different color containers for your ammo. My magnums are blue, my 45 are brown, and some others are red.

Once you build a box put a label on the top of it with the grain, type of powder and the powder charge. It is much easier to remember which ones shoot good or not when it is right there in front of you.
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Old January 11th, 2009, 04:36 PM   #4
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I keep my ammo separated in different military ammo cans that are boldly marked on top.
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Old January 11th, 2009, 06:09 PM   #5
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I've seen several shooters at CAS matches mark the headstamp area of their cases with a colored magic marker either to make sure that they only get their own brass back or to mark "hot" loads for the plate racks.

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Old January 11th, 2009, 10:24 PM   #6
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I've seen several shooters at CAS matches mark the headstamp area of their cases with a colored magic marker either to make sure that they only get their own brass back or to mark "hot" loads for the plate racks.

Hoss
Does the marker burn off after being fired? Is it just a colored sharpie or is it nail polish? I was wondering the tolerance of either one to being fired.
BTW I like the idea of using color to separate different shooters brass, thanks!
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Old January 11th, 2009, 11:29 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghuqu2 View Post
Does the marker burn off after being fired? Is it just a colored sharpie or is it nail polish? I was wondering the tolerance of either one to being fired.
BTW I like the idea of using color to separate different shooters brass, thanks!
They use a sharpie and you can wipe it off afterwards
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Old January 12th, 2009, 09:00 AM   #8
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I use the Magic Marker method. It works well for me. Also, I code the loadings with a different color. Example: .45ACP with 185gr HP and 8.3 gr Unique= Black casehead/Red tip on bullet. .45ACP with 185HP and 5gr Promo=Black casehead/Blue tip on bullet.

Hey! It works for me.
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Old January 12th, 2009, 10:25 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghuqu2 View Post
Does the marker burn off after being fired? Is it just a colored sharpie or is it nail polish? I was wondering the tolerance of either one to being fired.
BTW I like the idea of using color to separate different shooters brass, thanks!
No, it doesn't burn off from firing. A lot of BP shooters use this method to mark their brass. BP burns much hotter than smokeless and doesn't burn it off the brass. While I haven't used the markers to mark for caliber, I have on occasion used the markers to mark for bullet weight and it will eventually come off as you tumble your brass but should remain just fine up to that point.

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