Had a problem with my J frame at the range today

Had a problem with my J frame at the range today

This is a discussion on Had a problem with my J frame at the range today within the Defensive Carry Guns forums, part of the Defensive Carry Discussions category; During lunch I took 300 rds of Remington UMC +P to the range with my S&W 637 PC (w/ internal lock) and new-to-me Ruger WC ...

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Thread: Had a problem with my J frame at the range today

  1. #1
    Distinguished Member Array drmordo's Avatar
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    Had a problem with my J frame at the range today

    During lunch I took 300 rds of Remington UMC +P to the range with my S&W 637 PC (w/ internal lock) and new-to-me Ruger WC GP100. I've shot ~300 problem-free rds thru the 637, which was used, but almost new when I got it. Most of the rounds shot thru the 637 were WWB, but there were about 50 Remington UMC +P as well.

    The GP100 was perfect and I love it. As soon as I get a holster, it will be my primary CCW.

    Toward the end of the session, I decided to run a few rounds thru the 637, and after a few cylinders it started to index the cylinder, but the hammer wasn't moving. It would rotate the cylinder thru 2-3 rounds and then would catch and go back to normal. It did it two or three times over 4-5 cylinders, and then I unloaded it and dry fired a ton and couldn't replicate it.

    1. Internal lock issue? The trigger was moving, it felt like it wasn't engaging the hammer, so I have doubts about the lock being the issue.

    2. S&W Warranty - I bought the gun used. Will they still fix it? I don't love the idea of sending them a gun with an intermittent problem, as I think it will be hard to diagnose and fix.

    I'm planning on opening up the side and trying to determine the problem, then pulling the lock and fitting a "semi-bobbed" 638 hammer. Then I'll take it back to the range and see what happens. I'm glad it happened at the range, obviously it won't be my CCW until I get it fixed and verify that it's working. It will be hard to trust it again, but I love the gun so right now I plan to stick with it.

    Do y'all have any recommendations or thoughts?
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  2. #2
    VIP Member Array drift's Avatar
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    I got nothing for you other than a sympathetic - dude that sucks! I hate it when stuff like that happens. Sorry man. That's all I got.

  3. #3
    VIP Member Array PAcanis's Avatar
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    When I got my Kimber K6 it started behaving similarly after the first couple cylinders. Well, sans external hammer.
    The trigger would pull, but much lighter than it had been. The cylinder would turn, but no bang. No click.

    I took off the side plate and it looked like a spring towards the bottom of the frame was not how it should be. It was leaning a lot instead of engaging the part like it should. I'm not a revolver guy, but it looked like the part it was supposed to engage had something to do with locking the cylinder once indexed. And also the spring affected the trigger. It was a simple matter of pushing the small spring into place.
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  5. #4
    VIP Member Array ghost tracker's Avatar
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    (1.) I know NOTHING about "lawyer-lock" S&W revolvers. All mine are no-lock.

    (2.) I KNOW S&W will FIX it, new or used. As for it being a no-charge "warranty" repair? That might depend more on the nature of the problem (cause= manufacturer defect or home gun-plumbing?). If they DO charge for the fix, it won't be much $.

    If you were planning (and skilled enough) to pull the side-plate anyway, why not just go ahead? Alternatively, if there's a hammer-swap ("semi-bobbed 638") involved, you could sent the gun AND the hammer to S&W to perform the swap. They're bound to check function before sending it back.

    Good Luck Doc & let us know how things turn-out.
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  6. #5
    Ex Member Array Doogie's Avatar
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    Just call their SW customer line. They will tell you what to do. My 586 had a recall in the early 1990's that I missed. I sent it to them 10 years later and they fixed it for free.
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  7. #6
    VIP Member Array PAcanis's Avatar
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    On a J frame it would be this guy circled in red.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Had a problem with my J frame at the range today-jframe2.jpg  


  8. #7
    Senior Member Array raytracer's Avatar
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    Well, I know you're just telling stories because I have it on good authority (the internet and gun store clerks) that revolvers never, ever fail or jam or break in any way whatsoever, only automatics and mostly then 1911s.

    Seriously, give S&W a call and see what they say.
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    VIP Member Array 10thmtn's Avatar
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    Are you related to Rollo?
    Carry a sidearm always. Be able to put shots into the torso and then head, if needed. The rest is much less important.

  10. #9
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    Could be the double action action sear failing to be pushed into place so that it catches the trigger when you pull the trigger. The DA sear pushes away from the hammer and the nose catches the sear engagement hook of the trigger when you pull the trigger. See the image below. Might be dirty or just a kinked DA sear spring, which is cheap and easy to fix.

    I think it is definitely NOT the lock - if the lock failed closed, the trigger would not move due to the hammer being held in place.

    Had a problem with my J frame at the range today-parts_chart_640.jpg
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  11. #10
    Distinguished Member Array drmordo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PAcanis View Post
    When I got my Kimber K6 it started behaving similarly after the first couple cylinders. Well, sans external hammer.
    The trigger would pull, but much lighter than it had been. The cylinder would turn, but no bang. No click.

    I took off the side plate and it looked like a spring towards the bottom of the frame was not how it should be. It was leaning a lot instead of engaging the part like it should. I'm not a revolver guy, but it looked like the part it was supposed to engage had something to do with locking the cylinder once indexed. And also the spring affected the trigger. It was a simple matter of pushing the small spring into place.
    This is interesting, and I will check it out. I have to say that I don't see how that part could keep the sear from catching, but I plan to play with it and see.

    Quote Originally Posted by PEF View Post
    Could be the double action action sear failing to be pushed into place so that it catches the trigger when you pull the trigger. The DA sear pushes away from the hammer and the nose catches the sear engagement hook of the trigger when you pull the trigger. See the image below. Might be dirty or just a kinked DA sear spring, which is cheap and easy to fix.

    I think it is definitely NOT the lock - if the lock failed closed, the trigger would not move due to the hammer being held in place.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    You may very well be right. I wish I'd had the thought of cocking it SA when it was malfunctioning, but now I cant get it to act up again while dryfiring. I suspect the +P ammo played a factor, but I intend to take it apart tonight and check that sear.

    Thanks everyone for the suggestions and commiseration!
    drift and msgt/ret like this.

  12. #11
    Member Array Glocking26's Avatar
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    Get it fixed sell it and buy a Ruger LCR. Much less complicated lock work and a MUCH smoother trigger.
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  13. #12
    Distinguished Member Array drmordo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Glocking26 View Post
    Get it fixed sell it and buy a Ruger LCR. Much less complicated lock work and a MUCH smoother trigger.
    I actually have an LCR 327 that I love, but loaned to a friend. Because it's a Performance Center, the trigger on the 637 is pretty dang sweet.

    I doubt I'll sell the 637, but I have been toying with the idea of getting a LCR .38 to carry while the 637 is inop. The problem is I'm trying to save money for a reloading rig.
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  14. #13
    Member Array Glocking26's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by drmordo View Post
    I actually have an LCR 327 that I love, but loaned to a friend. Because it's a Performance Center, the trigger on the 637 is pretty dang sweet.

    I doubt I'll sell the 637, but I have been toying with the idea of getting a LCR .38 to carry while the 637 is inop. The problem is I'm trying to save money for a reloading rig.
    I have the LCR in 327 and 38 and love them both. I've been at J frame fan ever since I can remember but after the LCR came out I switched over immediately. I still love the older ones the newer ones just don't do it for me. Good luck with yours.

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